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yeah, the one under the intake on his is starting to show signs, but is not too terrible yet.. maybe we should go ahead and order one, just in case tho, LOL that oil cooler line, however... looking pretty nasty. maybe not as bad as the one we replaced yesterday, but not too far behind. that little bolt - yeah, after reading your post asking about it.. I kind of figured it was gonna be a bear.. but the deepwell socket worked quite well - that and my smaller hands, lol the only other difficulty we encountered was one of the exhaust studs.. several of the studs came out (rather than the nuts coming off) most went back in fine and tightened up fine, but on one, the nut broke free so rather than actually turning the stud back in, it was threading up the stud.. grrr Pulled it back out, cleaned up the rust on the wire wheel (was not too bad), got the nut off, then used the bandsaw to cut a slot in the end to use a screwdriver to re-install the stud.. then put the nut back on. it worked.. everything seems to be in order after getting it refilled with coolant.. even took it for a short test run to go get dinner.

Most likely to be NOS.

part arrived Friday night via UPS.. we spent the better part of Saturday (about 6-6.5hrs total) getting the old one out & the new one in. the hardest part was getting the darn thing wiggled out, and the new one wiggled back into place.. even with lifting the motor. holy cow what a pain.. the one on the 2.5 was far easier! (even with having to pull the intake!) john in KY - you asked me to let you know how long it took to get that bolt in the back reinstalled.. less than a minute. LOL - used a deepwell socket, bolt in that, slipped it through the bracket (no chance of dropping it), found the hole (standing on a small stool (car was up on jack-stands), leaned way over and could just see the hole) and threaded it right in. (all heater hoses were disconnected & other stuff was out of the way). And after looking things over, there was no way that sucker was going in from the top side... while doing this one, we took a good look at the one that feeds the oil cooler... that one is next - not looking good. (thankfully, coolant was on sale recently so he bought plenty) but can someone explain to me why it is that the oil cooler line which is pretty much straight, one inlet, one outlet & 2 hanger tabs is around $80 (reg retail $114), while the other one, with multiple bends, a 2nd stub out and 2 hanger tabs is only $50?? this is completely bass-ackwards... you would think the simple one would be the cheaper one, and the more complicated one would be more expensive.

Yes the climate control part does change operation depending on load, and it will slow down the fan speed by itself on one of those rare occasions that it gets cool enough. But when you go manual, the fan speed should stay on whatever you set it at, which it does, but it gets warm. The schematic shows a sunlight load sensor which is located on the dash but I sure don't see it on mine? There is also a temp sensor somewhere close to the evaporator (I think). When I get a chance I'm going to take out the control panel which gets me closer to that sensor. Just to the front of the ignition switch is a tiny vent that pulls air in to monitor interior temperature. That might go the temp sender I just mentioned? Manual shows to put a narrow piece of paper in front of it to see if it is pulling air in. It does, but surely not much. Not enough to pull the paper toward the vent, but enough to very slightly hold it there as I pull it away. Again I think that is for the climate control but I'm not sure. I may put tape over it to see if it gets better or worse.

82 Brat DL 5 spd DR w/ Jerrys kit EJ22 with ADF adapter and SPEC stage 3 clutch rear disc brakes reupholstered interior GL dash swap HID head lights full LED conversion 4" ADF lift EA82 front springs clocked torsion bars lowered bump stops PS conversion 6 lug conversion 15" Method Standard wheels 215-75-15 BFG AT TA KO2 Restored Snug top STi Spec C roof vent all new bushings new struts/ shocks new brake lines WALBRO 155 GPH fuel pump Custom 1 piece rear drive shaft JVC head unit with 4 kenwood speakers modified 1st gen A bar Nilight 22" light bar and 2 pods In the works: tube lower control arms and Forester knuckles/ struts/axles, Sway-A-Way rear torsion bars

Identifying the fill plug for the 2015 Outback genii TR580 lineartronic cvt(used in all 2015 2.5L outbacks) was hard this first time. I found that ATRA.COM had a writeup and pictures covering most Subaru models with cvt. ATRA stands for American Transmission Rebuilders Association and the article is on the subaru lineartronic cvt. They show clear pictures with arrows to help you identify transmission and differential plugs for both the gen ii tr580 and the geni tr690 What they don't tell you is that the check plug and fill plug are both 8mm hex sockets and the factory over torques the fill plug so you need breaker bar to loosen. After reading about folks adding gear oil to trans because of using wrong plug I was paranoid.,After getting my outback up on ramps and removing engine splash guard I saw like 10 plugs on surface of cvt. I came back inside and read the atra.com info three times then: removed the 8mm check plug, and the 8mm fill plug(needed breaker bar) above and left of passenger side transaxle Still paranoid, I pumped a few strokes of 75-90 mobil 1 into fill hole and it came out the check/overfill plug hole...success.... Then I removed front diff drain plug with T70; cleaned drain plug to remove metallic paste reinstalled drain plug to 52lbs torque ; pumped in 1.5 qts of 75-90 mobil1 then a couple more strokes had fluid coming out check/overfill plug opening torqued fill plug to 32 lb torqued check plug to 32 lbs My dealer wanted $269 to service differentials. My cost for front and rear $50(including T70 socket amazon.com 1 day), 3 qts 75-90, and Tshirt I tossed from leaky gear oil pimp spillage)

Do you have a link to the article you're referring to? I went to ATRA.com and couldn't find much. Thx, Brian