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i installed the rubber brake hoses and got new pads. found out you can't tow the older subs on the ground without drive lines in. also found out the drive lines off a turbo didn't fit a regular transmission, to big on the tranny end in spite of what the parts boy at napa says. now i need to get a brake rotor, caliper and two drive lines. and find the loose ground wire under the dash. changed the ball joints, the old ones were rusted solid of course the boot tore installing it and the through bolt broke on one side. it was not a good day. but i can get parts at pull and save cheap enough as soon as the lady i bought the car from finds the title. then find some winter tires in 13 inch. good luck.

Start at the fuel pump control unit mounted above the hood release cable bracket - it's either a 6 pin black or 5 pin blue box that controls fuel pump power based on tach pulse (coil neg.) input. If you don't have a factory service manual for 84, find one on ebay. Aftermarket manual diagrams are worthless. GD

Jono: Definitely my first EA82, let alone EA82T. That and the knock sensor. Same thing happens with the EJ's though... :'( Dave T: Great write up! Thanks for the info, definitely will be referencing this.

I’ve never heard of doubling a headgasket. Most likely intake gaskets as mentioned. Cheaper to try those first. Heads shouldn’t be warped but can’t tell from here. There’s an archive of a backyard way to get slight warpage out if it comes to that and if you want to try the DIY method. To me , the vacuum of the intake is why it drank so much from the radiator. I’ve had intake gaskets go on an 1800 ohc and same thing - lost lots of coolant and sent me into a panic thinking h/g’s .

check sway bar endlinks, they can rattle.Check rear bushings on lower control arms. second advice above, KYB struts, other stuff if inspection warrants. best DIY, remove strut assemblies, take them and new parts to a shop and pay them to move everything over.

Yes, that's how I did it; I checked out one guy's vids. on it and it looks like it is on the inside.

Hey all. Ive searched the forum and found that the torque bind in my 91 automatic legacy is more than likely the transfer clutch solenoid. The question I have is this: The "power" light flashes when I start the car. And if I install the FWD fuse, the light comes on, but the torque bind still exists. I also read on here that the problem may be the clutch itself getting scored and sticking in the engaged position. Can I test the solenoid without removing it from the trans? The fluid in this trans has NEVER gone more than 10k miles without being changed, and I change the 4 qts in the pan every 1000 miles like clockwork. Thank you!