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This could be a warning that the battery is failing. I suggest you have it checked and it would also be a good idea to clean the battery connections using the proper cleaning brush. What matters is the battery post contact surfaces, not the outside clamp surfaces. They may not be an issue but by doing that you will know for sure that they are making good connection.

I love it! there's a guy on this forum named Ferces, also lives in Bogota Colombia, drives a 3rd gen though, happy driving! never seen an owners manual in spanish before, thats something new for me.

as comatosellama suggested, speed dependent vibrations/shaking are most often caused by a tire out of balance, sometimes a damaged tire - Start there. As texan suggested, swapping tires from front to back for a quick, inexpensive test.. if the vibration is still present, bet less noticeable in the steering, that would suggest it IS a tire out of balance and/or damaged. get them checked If swapping the tires has no effect on the vibration/shaking, then yes, you need to dig deeper. potential issues: ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearing, CV joint (axle), maybe a frozen brake caliper.. also check struts & springs.. also take a look at the lower control arm mounting points. the rear most mount bushing tends to be a problem area

Sweet ride mate! I love that colour. The rear diff might need oil or be damaged from lack of oil. It’s not normally used onroad as these vehicles are front wheel drive until you engage 4wd. So it shouldn’t make any noise on the open road. The other thing it could be is the rear bearings. Simply jack up a rear wheel off the ground and rotate it. If you hear or feel a rumble from/through the wheel your bearing is needing replacement. Rust is the real killer of these. Check around/under the windscreen rubber, rear side windows, below the front door hinges (open doors to check) and in the seam behind the spare wheel. But looking at that wagon I reckon you’re pretty much rust free! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the USMB! And congrats on your GL--nice looking car. You're going to enjoy working on it--don't hesitate to ask questions as you go along. Good folks on here, always willing to lend a helping hand.

Skip NO steps. Regardless of bolt newness. Repeat each of the ft/lb torque sequences till they do not turn any further. If that takes three times or 50 times - once you run through the sequence and they no longer turn you can move on. Obviously this does not apply to the angle torque values. If you get creaking (stick-slip), STOP and take it apart. Yes chase the threads with an old bolt. And then you need to lube them with Amsoil Engine Assembly Lube. Lube the bolt threads of one bolt, run it in and out of each hole with the head off a couple times - relubing between each. Apply assembly lube LIBERALLY to each bolt and between the bolt head and top of the washer (not between the washer and the head). Make sure you use the small washer bolts in the corners and the big washer bolts in the center. You must use something like the Amsoil lube. Regular engine oil won't handle the load and will creak. Once you achieve ZERO creaking you are doing it right. Creaking means false torque readings and in all likelyhood insufficient clamping. My point was your machinist is a hack. I bought an Ra meter (used) for about $350. It's a neat little tool and a proper machine shop would own one (maybe several) in order to ensure they achieve proper specified surface roughness for any given application. This doesn't only apply to cylinder heads - lots of things need to have specific surface qualities. GD

Not sure what you've skipped. Subaru head-bolts are NOT torque-to-yield. that's why you can reuse them. I've always followed the complete torqueing sequence when installing new head-gaskets.

NO SEALANT. Pull it apart and check everything. You have done something horribly wrong. I can measure Ra finish. I bought a meter for it. And I'm not even a machinist. Use the Subaru head gasket part number ending in 770. GD