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Now you have adjustable cam timing! Cheers Bennie

Oh - and just use the factory graphite head gaskets. The EJ22 requires too thick of a HG for MLS. GD

I learned a lot from YouTube videos- both the right ways and the wrong ways! After having a very sloppy shifter in our’ 99 Forester, I looked for new bushings. I soon realized that the originals had disintegrated to the extent that one had completely disappeared! At 30 notes for a new set I decided to make my own from some black PVC irrigation hose. I’m not a mega cheapskate but I do like to DIY what I feel is possible. Often it is more practical than driving into town and spending bills. -Easy to make, and easy to install as long as you can safely lift the car a bit, and four years later the shift is still crisp. On the little subaru Vivio we had I made some bushings out of galvanized steel collars and washers. That really feels crisp! I now have to make some more bushings for our new ‘00 Foz which is not really happy (now that I have fitted a stiffer Group N transmission mount). Removal of the shifter linkage isn’t a big deal either, if you have some basic tools and some goggles!

Uni joint on the tail shaft. Check them for play. Also inspect you engine/gearbox mounts. Cheers Bennie

you got it. The order of assembly is BLOCK - HEAD - CAM CARRIER. Headgasket goes between block and head. Sealant and metal reinforced oring goes between cam carrier and head. #10 In your previous attaches diagram is the carrier. And # 11 is either the metal reinforced oring itself or a good illustration for where it goes. That diagram is already showing the head assembled to the block and no parts or numbers or labels so you don’t see both mating surfaces. It seems like your current progress is spot on, but decades old overflow tanks are usually grimy and nasty even on perfectly running engines. A one time observation isn’t a confirmation unless the tank was previously known to be very clean top to bottom. It seems you have enough symptoms, and know what you’re doing, but thought I’d mention it in case there was any uncertainty.

I see what you are saying now. The o-ring you reference is on the camshaft housing assembly, which attaches to the other side of the head. The picture in the service manual its easier to see than in the diagram.

and age is exactly the reason I decided to get new tires last fall... the ones that were on were going on 4 yrs old, and starting to get cracks in between treads - meaning dried out. Still had lots of tread left, but cracking is bad Sadly, we did not get the dual range in Foresters here in the USA - in any form. the last ones to have dual range here were the old 80s GLs the 95 Legacy I had I did a Forester strut swap on, and used the Forester wheels too, so it sat quite a bit taller than stock. it still felt more planted on the road to me. The Forester does fine, don't get me wrong, especially with good snow tires, it just feels different after driving Legacy wagons for so long. as for manual vs auto - i would love to have a manual again, but foot problems preclude that... can't use a clutch anymore, too painful.