Leaderboard

Sheriff called a half hour ago; car found in Beaverton near Tektronix. I'll go out in the morning to recover.

I think you'll have to be more specific. I don't think anything on a '90 Loyale has a Personal Identification Number. And what Control Unit? Engine? Cruise? Door lock? probably others...

So here’s where I’m at, I have my check engine codes all cleared out. It was indeed my brake booster supply hose that came disconnected. It’s loose and there wasn’t a clamp installed, I’ll get a $.50 clamp and secure it. Driving it now it’s still doing the same thing. However it doesn’t really feel like the transmission is slipping anymore. The engine has power back now that it’s not running lean. And once the speed hits 40mph it feels like the transmission is disengaging, going into neutral. I could be wrong but I have a hunch now that the mix of Old worn tires and the donut are causing my AWD system to possibly freak out and force a speed/power limiter. Because at low speeds and gears, the transmission catches and speeds up fine, doesn’t feel like it’s slipping at all. Even with the RPMS in the 5000 range, whereas when I’m in the 40mph range the trans let’s go at 3000rpm whether it’s in 4th or 5th gear. So I intend on spending my next 2 paychecks on a new set of tires and rebalancing my wheels now that I can afford it. hopefully this resolves my problem, will keep you guys posted thank you for all your help so far!! I really appreciate it.

By no spark after the coil, do you mean you have spark at the coil? If you have spark at the coil and not at the plugs, it's most likely the rotor has come unscrewed in the distributor.

1750rpm is EXACTLY where both of our Foresters’ exhaust manifold/collector heat shields arrived at optimum harmonic frequency; -in other words ‘rattled their loudest’. Remove them, wedge them or somehow fix them and all should be good.

Love CO, never see rust like that.

Welcome Grennick! Your initial impression was spot on, the Subaru community is indeed a good one, all the stereotypes for roo drivers are positive, from the broke college kid with the $500 Craigslist special, your everyday gas sipping family driver (dog driving of course) or the obnoxious loud exhaust and turbo of the wrx boy racers, Subaru guys are always chill dudes, internet included! Usmb is a great forum, all the info you could ever need on the best of the hippie haulers. These are good cars because lots of fun and cool and sometimes crazy things can be done to them and they are designed in a way so that a guy like myself, who is heavy on the ambition but a little light on the technical and equipment side, and super lightweight on the wallet side of things can still happily wrench on and maintain a super reliable ride. Plus cops ignore Subarus, even if you drive em like you stolded em (highly recommended!)

i do hope you mean 1750rpm - the car wont be running at 175, lol but anyway, yeah, check heat shields on the drivers side of the car as for the codes, you need to find out what exactly they are, and the order they appear in. this can often point you i the right direction of what needs attention first. i sincerely doubt that the cat needs replacing if it is running & driving as well as you say. clogged cat would cause all sorts of drive-ability issues

Tip for you on the snap ring if it's not too late. If you look at your picture you can see that the edges of the snap ring are rounded slightly on the side facing away from the bearing. The other side will have square edges. When installing snap rings you always want the thrust load to push on the rounded side so that the square side is pushed against the groove in the shaft. The square edges have more surface area in contact and can take greater load than if you're pushing the rounded edge against the groove.