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The single pin white and green ones are for various ECU test modes, leave them disconnected. The bigger one is for a diagnostic tool to plug into.

It sounds like we might be conflating two topics here - needing new struts and raising the vehicle. Which is it or is it both? Are we sure ride height is due to struts? Usually it’s springs, could it be bushings? If it’s just raising the vehicle then new Subaru springs should do it. At that point most people would install new struts with new springs. Alternately you could try spacers. I’m not recommending these and often I think they’re like $30 but here’s an illustration which I think fits your vehicle: https://www.amazon.com/spacers-Subaru-FORESTER-IMPREZA-Leveling/dp/B076KWYF34 But if the struts and springs are a quarter century old I think I’d start there.

Presumably the car was level when new - so $70 KYB struts should get you right back to where you were. At most add in $30 for new Subaru springs. That’s $100 per side. aftermarket assemblies should be substantially different sizes than stock. So either way, if you’re looking for something other than stock - you could still need spacers or different springs. But that’s a different topic ive bought custom springs for a little more height. Ground control used to sell springs and they were not very expensive though I don’t recall the price. Some Subaru’s have readily available spacers too, which just slide onto the top do the strut for a small bump. I know they exist for the front and imagine they do for the rear The aftermarket strut options are tough. I’ve seen new mounts fail in a day, new mounts balloon upwards such that I wouldn’t trust them more than to limp around locally, and complete new assemblies float so bad I can’t believe anyone would tolerate it. I’m not very discerning in my “ride comfort” at all. I don’t even care how it rides, my roads are atrocious, gravel public roads, as long as it’s tolerable I’m happy - and some of the new units are awful. I’ve had people bring me their subarus after a local shop tossed on the complete Monroe or Gabriel or whatever assemblies. Hard to imagine they could drive that bad except that I’ve seen it. I guess there are some that are tolerable but there’s too many issues and I don’t trust longevity at all enough to try any out.

There are no complete assemblies (that are not junk) for these cars. You don't need a spring compressor for the rears. You can just lean on them a bit and start the nut. The wheel arches are such that these cars always look like they are sagging and I'm about 95% that if you install anything that's "stock" it's going to look and act exactly the same as what you already have. A non-rusty car with 106k on it is pretty much guaranteed to have good springs, and at least marginal shocks (which have no effect on ride height). I would just get the King springs and put them on your existing struts and call it a day. Rick

GD is straight to the point. hear him out, take notes, and listen to or not listen to him. Most of the time he is more right about Subaru's than anyone else you'll find online. He's like a bunch of us, and owned and knows all about $200 Subaru's. I promise he's not judging you, he's just been around hundreds or thousands of them and knows most people don't spend that much to maintain them or waste time upgrading, turbo charging or other wishful thinking type initiatives. if you're an outlier, and want to put forth the time and effort, then no big deal, he's not forcing you to do anything. Just move on to the next reply. I'd recommend aftermarket too, they're cheap, last a really long time, and aren't prone to damage unless the car is being constantly beat at which point i'm not sure i'd want to install a more expensive aluminum. I get it - i've looked into aluminum before too - it's a lot of time figuring what works, fabrication, etc - time that in the long run is better spent on other issues you'll encounter in the next 10 years. In general it's not common to install aluminum radiators in that era. 95-98 legacy radiators should all be the same - you can do a parts search online and see what vehicles a 95 radiator fits. that might help expand what you're looking for as you search for the closest fit you can find. The fan mounts, lower legs, and radiator hose locations and diameters change over time and are the parts that require modifications if you find one that physically fits in the location.

That coating looks flaked off everywhere, likely the same on the other side. It should've been an all metal gasket. Chances are high the heads are warped. Check head flatness as stated above and consider sending them for resurface. MLS gaskets aren't forgiving as composite if there's even a bit of warpage.

(Hopefully) final post on this one. Since I installed the $26 aftermarket coil to replace the OEM one that only lived for a few months, I stopped getting the misfire codes. And that's using aftermarket wires and plugs. I know there are true believers here on OEM only, but the replacement OEM coil dying so quickly suggests maybe they're not worth the additional cost. And at $26 a pop, I'm tempted to keep a new replacement coil in stock just in case the trouble returns. But I was still getting the cat inefficiency trouble code. I had installed a new cat after the original coil started causing misfires and killed the original cat. I believe the new cat got cooked by all the raw fuel getting dumped into it when the OEM replacement coil would misfire. So I ordered yet another new header pipe/front cat from ebay ($120 delivered), and installed it a month ago. Since then, the car is running right with no codes for the first time in ~two years. finit Thanks for all of the input, guys!

Outer valves on the EA81 heads are the intake valves, centre two valves are exhaust. In the EA82S they’re the same as EA82 - exhaust on the outer and intake in the centre. Yours will be the first mentioned valve setup. I doubt you’ll do damage in the short term. Adjust them to the correct specs and it’ll be good. Too tight could lead to burning out a valve or two - possibly, I’m not 100% sure on that! Cheers Bennie

Your distributor shaft bushings are shot. Has nothing to do with the module. GD

Two functions. One safety, one convenience yeah as GD asks, better refresh your module issue while he is in the room

It does have two functions. It also powers the choke. The FPCU uses the same tach signal as the tach. Negative coil wire. It's looking for the falling edge of the same signal that triggers the coil from the distributor module. What is your "distributor module issue"? GD

found a original front lip in Japan so it looks like the sedan was time to take care of the intercooler and like the sedan I got a nice BELL intercooler made up the bumper plastic isn't bolted up that's why it sits like that or else it will sit straight, I have a brand new skin coming in

83 should not have a ballast resistor. Put the car back to stock the way you found it with the correct parts. It was not designed to have a resistor dropping the voltage while running. You have caused this failure by attempting to modify the ignition system incorrectly. GD