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Sounds like you are off 1 or maybe 2 tooth. Going by your description, It's firing way late, so you have to turn the rotor ahead of where it is. Ahead - in the direction it turns when running. That will effectively get the body back to it's normal rotation at 20 degrees.

Hope you had a Great Christmas in this strange 2020. Stay Healthy and Safe as we move into 2021! Happy Boxing Day.

Happy holidays to you all! @idosubaru @john in KY @DaveT @el_freddo @naru2 This is where I am now : I fixed the alternator's wiring by adding the line labeled "S" that stands for "voltage sense" this was cut and left on the side. I reattached the wires I had cut suspecting they were shorted. These wires were all fine all along. I prepared 4 new injector harnesses by cutting the old ones and soldering the new ones then using heat shrink on their solder joints. I fired it up. It started. But with a clanking noise, I let it run for a good 10 minutes. And then I noticed it smoothed out, at first it was like a wave, it would run ckanky then I would hear the typical EA82 purring. In the end it really seem it got a lot better. I noticed injector #4 still leaks fuel, but at a lower rate. When putting a long screw driver it sounded as if that injector 4 was clicking. The computer (damaged after a short when attempting to find the injector pulses) works good enough to run the ignition and distribution and in fact, it gave me code 42. Very clear 4 long pulses and 2 quick ones. Reading about it, it is related to "Injector" stuck open or closed. Which makes all the sense considering all the issues with injector 4. Perhaps that injector is faulty despite thought of being fine otherwise. However, reading on USBM, someone mentioned that code 42 refers to "Idle Switch" this would be consistent with the car's behaviour now. After the auxiliary air valve was released of keeping the idle still, the car couldn't maintain an idle any longer. The suspicion now is that the pin in the ECU that controls the iddle switch is fried. (Most expected) With all this, I'm calling it a massive improvement! The next actions include an oil and filter change, a swap and test of the injector #4. Waiting for the new ECU that is on its way. And fixing the relays for the radiator fans. Yes, I eliminated the fan clutch and placed 2 radiator fans. However I need a separate relay for the now main fan. It drags too much current for the current auxiliary radiator fan. I'll keep the updates coming

Here's the link to sequence for relearning/recalibration. Or this link. If you are still having trouble and haven't cleaned the throttle body, follow the link below. Here's a link for cleaning the throttle body.

Is this car an Outback Sport? Imprezas had dbw in '07, not sure when legacy outback got it. dbw does not have IACV, the ecu holds the throttle open for idle air or something I think. any CEL codes stored? early DBW had some bad throttle pedal asemblies - pr maybe the car has lost its zero calibration? exhaust smell rich? gas smell?

get a voltmeter on there.

Getting it in at the right tooth in one hit is one of those have to do it a number of times things. I had one off a tooth, what I did was this - keep a note of the rotation of the housing, and where the rotor is pointing. During this, don't change the rotation of the housing or if you do to get it to move, turn it back when you check the new position. Slowly lift the disty, watch and feel when the gear disengages - then move it ahead a tooth, lower it back in. Notice how the rotor turns some as the gear disengages. Turn & feel the rotor by hand, it doesn't take much effort. When you slide it back down, it turns back. It should be pointing slightly ahead of where it was if you moved it ahead a tooth. If it's back where it was, then you didn't advance it. Re check the timing - if it is correct, the marks from the original position will be under the bolts at 20BTDC.

awesome! i dont think ill need to spray it, im going to be running this with its own fan attatched

So let me explain why its not so great for the water pump. when the clutch starts to grab due to seizing or from age and whatever other reason the fan starts to spin at the same speed as the pump for extended periods of time and unless the fan is balanced perfectly (usually not) the water pumps internal bearings will see that and start to wear, also needing the belt to be tighter so it wont slip plus the force its pulling on the shaft forward at high revs. the benefit to them over the electric fan hardly justifies the extra wear on the water pump. being turbo should warrant having a higher CFM electric fan anyways

If you have electronic throttle control you might not have an idle air control valve as the ECU should be able to manipulate the throttle for appropriate idle speed. It could be worth checking to see if the throttle body is clean. All the best Bennie

JesZek, 2020 is not a good year to say the least. You’ve put into perspective how lucky we are over here during the pandemic and I wish Melbourians would quit winging about it. Very sorry to hear about the loss of your Dad, especially so unexpectedly. You have fond memories of him and I’m sure you will keep them alive, same for the Mercury. While it might be painful to look, work on or drive it, that vehicle is one very huge link to many good memories with your Dad. Look after it and in time you will enjoy driving it because of your memories with your Dad. All the best mate. Bennie

My deepest condolences.