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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/24/21 in Posts

  1. Get a rust free body! One of many problems to surface, I"m sure.
  2. some folks buy the Harbor freight engine lift, then sell it after the work is done. look for some subaru clutch job videos on youtube. ask all your friends/relatives if they have ever wrenched that deep on a car, offer them pizza and beers to help.
  3. cracked/broken fork could be in the mix here.....
  4. How do you know it's not the clutch? If clutch is fried it won't go into gear either. How "dry" was it - completely empty? It doesn't go into any gear? The cable and fork are moving in and out properly with the clutch pedal? Have you tried putting it in every gear and jamming the stick in hard? What happens if you try to turn the wheels/axle by hand (or with tools) - will they turn (ebrake off)? if both front axles turn with no play/noise, then the front diff should be fine. But there's still the gears and synchros. I'd guess maybe the synchro's are smoked due to lack of fluid. You could drain the fluid and see if you get chunks, sparklies, how much, or nothing in the fluid. Check fluid carefully in a pan/with some white cloth.
  5. And just like that some issue I’ll need to inspect tomorrow. Wanted to make a local run and the car began running badly and check engine blah blah blah First thought is I admit I was quite sloppy with my exhaust. After the Y pipe that flange with the donut - I should have snugged that up but rushed like a knucklehead. It drove to work and around two towns or so. Maybe have loosened that exhaust joint a bit more as the loudness increased. Thought I’d get it over to a local cheapie exhaust shop and have them snug it or even replace with my near new sections I took from that parts car. These fellows are easy to work with and get you by without killing your wallet. Hoping that’s all or maybe a plug wire popped off. Could that second O2 sensor maybe have rattled and yanked its wire? Tune in next time.
  6. And the 2004 will be coming home this weekend. 185K, 5 spd that runs and drives quite nicely.. good tires all around, interior is pretty clean.. seats could use a good cleaning, but no rips or tears. a few minor battle scars on the body, and a little rust in the right rear wheel well..typical place.. but overall she is pretty clean for her age.
  7. lol, not.. found an 04 locally that is in nice shape.. even the underside is reasonable for the area. and yes, she will be coming home with us this weekend.
  8. Well the ECU gives fuel for the measured airflow (on cars with a MAF it's measured directly, on cars without it's calculated from MAP and IAT). It only knows how long to open the injector based on it's assumption of fuel injector flow rate and known fuel pressure of 43.5 across the injector. If the O2 sensor says it's too rich on the exhaust side the feedback loop starts to "trim" the fuel by applying a percentage reduction to the injector pulse width. The ECU is perfectly capable of reducing the pulse width all the way to the minimum allowed, which would probably be more than a 50% reduction in idle pulse width (depends on the injector size and characteristics that are generally not published with OEM injectors). The code is thrown once the trim value exceeds the limits set in software - which is generally some period of time above 25% reduction (so -25% fuel trim). This will then trigger the P0172 code indicating the computer believes something is dramatically wrong. GD

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