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There’s so many different ways to do this - it’s almost infinite. It’s hard to say much with confusing general questions. Whatever you do - Get a new Subaru turbo only. Or equivalent OEM supplier. The choice of block and internals and transmission depends how much power you’re aiming for, how much you’re willing to spend, and *how long you want the engine to last* - which everyone says they want but actually spend no time considering. First you wanted a 97 DOHC which isn’t turbo, nor ideal. Then you wanted forged internals which isn’t necessary or beneficial on a non turbo. Then later you say turbo. You also said “little modification” but now you’re mentioning turbos with forged internals that you’ll be installing yourself - which will require rewiring and controllers with extensive cross member and exhaust overhaul and/or cutting/welding. Then you mentioned upgraded transmission. That’s the opposite of “little modification” price tag of your implied goals has ranged from $500 to $15,000 depending how we interpret it. Id work on narrowing down your goals here to something chewable and manageable. One of the best subaru builders is in your state, Superior Soobie in Oregon could do it for you. You’ll get top notch work and more importantly it’ll last.

After research, Black to black plug pulls stored engine codes. I connected these and received a code 24 Reset ECU and waiting to see if the code comes back According to that website, code 24 is "Air control valve or circuit; Idle speed control solenoid valve" Is this referring to the MAF sensor or the IAC solenoid valve, or both?

I typed a nice long paragraph and lost it to crappy 'net.. :-\ Anyway, just to clarify: 4wd EA car with ER/XT6 rear hub unaltered EJ backing plate, handbrake setup, rotor and caliper. Rguyver used an r180 setup on his brat, for those that don't know the r180 STI setup has bigger diff, axles and hubs thus the backing plate centering hole is bigger than r160. The r180 hole is bigger than the bolt pattern for EA/ER hubs thus rguyver simply welded a ring inside the r180 backing plate with the ea pattern drilled into it and bolted the assembly up. R160 backing plate center hole is a hair over 10mm larger in diameter than the ea/er mounting hole, thus the ea holes have to be drilled into the ej r160 backing plate. Th ej backing plate fits flush to the EA hub/trailing arm, there is no spacer between them. What I have done is simply made a ring with ea inner diameter and ejr160 outer diameter that makes up the difference in diameter as well as a plate that sits outside the ej backing plate. These are the full dimensions of what I fabricated minus one alteration I did when I actually went to put averything together and forgot that I needed to make room for the movement of the lever that controls the handbrake shoes: There were a few things I wanted to acheive: Reversibilty: If at some point I ever dump my car and went ej any alteration I did to the r160 backing plate couldn't prevent it from being returned to an ej car Safety: Must be as safe as stock No welding Must be able to fabricate with simple electrical/hand tools (...who was I foolin'?) No unblocked holes in the ej backing plate: This explains the unusual shape of the adaptor plate Must be compatible with an ABS backing plate, crossbred kit is NOT (no you still can't mount and ej abs sensor) and finally Must be freely availible to all who are as insane as I am:lol: The prototype is made of 6mm aluminium. I will update here with the actual method and more pics (Please, Sis, can I borrow your camera again?) as well as complete DXF files and DWG for those that desire to do the smart thing and take the damn design to their nearest cnc water/laser/3 axis machine and have it do in seconds what I did with my hands a jig saw a drill press and a bench grinder.. damn anyone actually gonna read all that? Kaz

Where is that huge dancing banana when you need him? Here's his little cousin...