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At this point I'm guessing and throwing out ideas since changing the maf made some improvement. Check the connector and wiring itself to the maf. It might not apply here, on my turbo ej25 the fuel trims would drift too rich or lean over the years, I've always attributed that to dirty or failing maf and replaced a couple, it fixed the problem. Randomly on one of the refresh builds, I broke the tab on the connector and it wouldn't lock. Ordered a connector and found that one of the wires felt very stiff, it was the heater power for the maf. I chased it maybe 1ft into the loom until it got flexible like the rest of the wires. Then ordered a premade made pigtail and spliced it in. Haven't needed to replace any maf's since. Then again the loom ran near the turbo area of the bay.

no, it will not - they are the same left to right

so google lied to me... go figure - LOL

1996 still had FWD. 1997 was the first year that FWD was not available.

Finally put a real patch on the hole in the floor of the black Outback out of .040" thick 4130. The hole was much smaller than this but this is how far out I had to go to weld to decent sheet metal. Started with the piece of roofing material as a template and trimmed and hammered from there. I was surprised how well this repair went. I figured if I got 50% attachment I'd be happy but I'd say it's closer to 90%. Primered it, painted black too but haven't taken pictures of that. Figure it will at least delay the rusting process, but either way should outlast the rest of the car. I kept thinking I'm going to be parting this thing out soon but at this point I think what will total it will be some kind of wiring malfunction or fire. So I think slammo is right, probably just keep patching things up as needed until that happens. While I did this, B and Z swapped out the door lock cylinder, rear door, put on folding mirrors that slammo sent me and a few other things. I really do need to get started on the billet rear knuckles soon and the Impreza.