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B finished welding the rear brumper yesterday. We also finally got the EZ36 running in the Impreza. Seemed to be running on all six, the only leak we noticed was one of the injectors so I should get new o rings for those. Cranked it for a while to get some oil circulation and maybe pressure. Even without the fuel pump running it started to fire when we plugged in the ECU. Fired right up with some fuel pressure, responds to throttle pedal. Only ran it for 5-10 seconds a few times. Still needs a lot of little things but a bit of a relief to hear it run. I'm going to try to put all the details of the engine swap on this thread: Will probably start copying some of the relevant info from this thread into there and use this thread for our usual fabrication, repairs, and trip reports. Thought it might be handy for future reference to have all the engine swap info in one place.

I'm going to try to make this guide as comprehensive as I can for setting up an EZ36 with a Haltech Elite 2500. Haltech does have some good wiring instructions on their website for the EZ30 but the EZ36 is significantly different. I also had someone share with me a base map for EZ36 but it's for the older (ESP) version of the Haltech software, so I will try to post that once I get it working well, probably after some dyno tuning too. Will also include specific wiring for putting this in a first gen Impreza (specifically 98 GF in my case, the older first gens definitely have different wiring in the instrument cluster if nothing else).

Ah, I copied wrong, it should be 11044AA670 gonna edit the original. Thanks

Download the FSM from jdmfsm.info, most of the following is from that. Pinned out connector to EZ36 Some Impreza specific wiring: Was looking for a good source of 12VDC with the ignition on that's not shared by any other fuses. Since we removed the airbags, computer, and wiring, it was convenient to tap into the airbag harness connector near the dead pedal. Ran the pink wire from pin 13 of the Haltech to that. Pin 6 connector B31 red wire as seen below: Almost spliced into the B/R wire running to the fuel pump by the passenger footwell but decided to tap into the connector that normally goes to the fuel pump relay (white thing on the left side of the picture). Ran the orange/blue wire from the Haltech fuse box there. Pin 4 of B46 black/red wire as shown below: Also wanted a dedicated but fused battery voltage source so tapped into the ABS connector since that will no longer be functional. Goes through the main 80A fuse and a 50A fuse in the main fuse box and then over to the ABS module (W/R wire marked B). Plugged the red, red/white, and red/green wires for the Haltech fuse box in to that. Used a large ground wire there too (black wire marked G), ran the black ground wire from pins 10 and 11 of the Haltech to that. Pins 23 (black) and 25 (white/red) of F49 as seen below: Simplest way I could figure to do the starter circuit was to splice these two wires (large W/R and W/B) that originally went to the shifter on the auto trans. Cut them on the large side of the factory splices and spliced them together. Large white/red and white/black wires of B12 as shown below: For some reason we had to unplug the stock ECU for this all to work properly but we were obviously going to do that regardless. I plan on adding more detail to the above and other wiring as I have time.

As noted above this is for an STI accelerator pedal, I think the pinouts on the Legacy/Outback and possibly the one shown on the Haltech site are different so definitely verify that. Most of that was figured out from the basemap I got, Haltech's site and instructions (their color coded wiring diagrams are great) and the FSMs. One minor hurdle we had was the Haltech EZ30 basemap being set up for a PWM pump (I think), had to switch that to the B/Y wire so it would actually turn on the fuel pump. Fuel pump seems to run continuously with ignition on even if the engine isn't running, haven't looked to see if or how that can be changed yet. Also had to adjust the pot position on the accelerator pedal to keep from getting an error at full throttle. Simple, just two phillips screws. Also have to calibrate the accelerator pedal and DBW throttle, also simple, just follow prompts on the screen.

Going the other way, wire colors to the ECU connector for reference. 2013 EZ36 pinout color (car) B21 54 pin color (engine side) GY/L 1 Lg knock sensor 2 (signal) GY 2 GR intake cam pos sensor RH (signal?) Y 3 W crank position sensor Also 14 GY/G 4 LR knock sensor 1 (signal) G 5 Lg intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH (ground?) B/W 6 YG throttle control, MAP, coolant & oil temp sensor, knock sensor 1&2 (ground) IGN GY/R 7 L exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH 8 B Or EGR control solenoid valve Y/B 9 RY ignition coil 1 Y/G 10 WL ignition coil 4 11 RG purge control solenoid valve (signal?) gauge V 12 BrW coolant temp sensor (signal) Y 13 G intake cam pos sensor LH (signal?) G 14 B crank position sensor Also 3 GY/BR 15 BY exhaust cam pos sensor RH (signal?) 16 W oil level switch switched to ground G/R 17 L Or exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH 18 PB power steering oil pressure switch switched to ground 19 BL EGR control solenoid valve Y/R 20 YG ignition coil 2 IGN GY/R 21 L intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH G 22 R intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH Y 23 YB MAP (signal?) O/R 24 Or throttle control signal? O/B 25 W throttle control signal? GY/B 26 G exhaust cam pos sensor LH (signal?) gauge 27 L engine oil temp sensor (signal) O 28 LY throttle control, MAP (power?) 29 YR EGR control solenoid valve 30 Y EGR control solenoid valve Y/O 31 GW ignition coil 3 IGN GY/R 32 GY intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH G/B 33 RY intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH B/W 34 BP ground for ECU? B/W 35 LR ground for ECU? B/W 36 WR ground for ECU? (coil ground?) B/W 37 LR ground for ECU? BR/R 38 BW throttle control BR/B 39 BL throttle control B/W 40 BP ground for ECU? 41 IGN GY/R 42 R exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH G/BR 43 RW exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH Y/L 44 BY ignition coil 6 gauge cluster 45 G Or oil pressure switch switched to ground L/Y 46 GW fuel injector 6 L/O 47 Br fuel injector 5 R/L HTFB 48 YL intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH, fuel injectors 1-6, purge control solenoid valve (power?) R/Y HTFB 49 LB ignition coil 1-6 (power – ignition relay?) Y/BR 50 BL ignition coil 5 L/R 51 RG fuel injector 4 L/BR 52 G Or fuel injector 3 L/B 53 LR fuel injector 2 L 54 Lg fuel injector 1 HTFB = Haltech fusebox STI accelerator pedal pinout (left to right looking at harness connector) O 1 sub 5V+ O/G 2 sub signal (analog) O 3 main 5V+ B/W 4 main ground O/Y 5 main signal (analog) B/W 6 sub ground

I used the Haltech fusebox kit which has four fuses and relays for ECU, injectors, ignition, and fuel pump. Chart of wires from the Haltech and which pins on the engine connector and throttle pedal I ran them to. Main connector 34 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-9 left to right top row EZ36 ECU Haltech Wire Colour Connection EVAP 1 V/BR DPO 2 Pedal 5 2 O/Y AVI 4 9 3 Y/B IGN 1 20 4 Y/R IGN 2 31 5 Y/O IGN 3 10 6 Y/G IGN 4 50 7 Y/BR IGN 5 44 8 Y/L IGN 6 28, pedal 1&3 9 O +5V DC GND 10 B BATTERY GROUND GND 11 B BATTERY GROUND - 12 O/W +8V DC IGN 13 P 12V IGNITION INPUT AC request 14 W AVI 10 ( TPS ) 23 15 Y AVI 9 ( MAP ) 25 16 O/B AVI 2 24 17 O/R AVI 3 tach 18 V/B DPO 1 54 19 L INJ 1 53 20 L/B INJ 2 52 21 L/BR INJ 3 51 22 L/R INJ 4 AC clutch relay 23 V/R DPO 3 Haltech relays 24 B/Y DPO 5 ( FUEL PUMP TRIGGER) Haltech relays 25 B/R DPO 6 ( ECR OUT) Haltech relays 26 R/L ECU INJECTOR POWER INPUT (REQUIRED CONNECTION FOR ECU TO OPERATE) 47 27 L/O INJ 5 46 28 L/Y INJ 6 29 L/G INJ 7 30 L/V INJ 8 IN2 22 31 G STEPPER 1 P1 / DPO IN1 (LH) 33 32 G/B STEPPER 1 P2 / DPO EX1 43 33 G/BR STEPPER 1 P3 / DPO EX2 17 34 G/R STEPPER 1 P4 / DPO Main connector 26 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-7 left to right top row EZ36 ECU Haltech Wire Colour Connection 3 1 Y (SHD) CRANK (TRIGGER) ( + ) Inangle1 (LH) 13 2 Y (SHD) CAM (HOME) ( + ) 3 GY AVI 7 (AIR TEMP) 12 4 V AVI 8 (COOLANT TEMP) 14 5 G (SHD) CRANK (TRIGGER) ( - ) 5 6 G (SHD) CAM (HOME) ( - ) 7 GY/R (SHD) SPI 4 Inangle2 2 8 GY (SHD) SPI 1 Exangle1 26 9 GY/B (SHD) SPI 2 Exangle2 15 10 GY/BR (SHD) SPI 3 IGN 11 R/W +13.8V ECU SUPPLY (ECU POWER) 12 GY/O (SHD) AVI 6 (O2 INPUT 1) 13 GY/Y (SHD) AVI 1 (O2 INPUT 2 ) 6,34,35,36,37,40 14 B/W SIGNAL GROUND Pedal 4 15 B/W SIGNAL GROUND Pedal 6 16 B/W SIGNAL GROUND CEL 17 Y/V IGN 7 18 Y/GY IGN 8 FAN relay 19 V/O DPO 4 Pedal 2 20 O/G AVI 5 4 21 GY/G KNOCK 1 1 22 GY/L KNOCK 2 CAN O2 23 W CAN H CAN O2 24 L CAN L 39 25 BR/B DBW 1 / DPO 38 26 BR/R DBW 2 / DPO

Bugger That second part number is a digit short. I can’t remember if it’s 673 or something else. I learned the other day that what you call a C clamp we call a G clamp over here - because it looks like a G! Thought I’d share Cheers Bennie