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I finally got a chance to really look at it, and it turned out to be the driveshaft (prop shaft). It was odd though, because, when the car was sitting, it would somehow cause the center bearing to lock so it didn't feel loose at all. I only figured it out by getting under it, with the left rear on jack stands, and having someone spin the left rear wheel while I watched the driveshaft rotate. It got to a specific spot, then it came loose. Got another shaft at a u-pull yard for $23 on sale, and the vibration is gone.

I did it. I bought a 1986 GL Wagon as my first ever Subaru. It already has a few modifications such as a lift, 5 lug adapters, larger wheels/tires and BMW headlights that I will be keeping. I need to rework the DIY fender flares that it has. I'm looking for a replacement manual transmission for this year as the one I have is in pieces. I would like to put the original one back together so feel free to point me in the right direction for a build/repair manual. Thanks!

Totally shooting from the hip here, these are all ideas and I've never done any of these methods. 1. Maybe you could fill the piston from the bottom (use it as a bowl) and fill it with dry ice or liquid nitrogen. Maybe you could get the piston cold enough to get it to shrink and you could use your timber+hammer method to remove it then. You may have a temperature transfer to the cylinder walls so this may not work. But the sleeves and piston should contract at different rates. 2. Pour water into the cylinder all the way to the top. Reinstall the head (maybe add some cheap RTV or the like) and stick the block half with the head on into the freezer. Maybe the hydraulic pressure from the water freezing could remove the piston. Or you'll end up cracking the block or head so best use a head that is already too far gone.

'90 and '91 5-speeds used the metal MAF - like the '91-'94 EJ22T(urbos). '90-'94 Automatics and all '95-'98 (and '99 EJ25D) EJ Subarus used the same green label plastic JECS/AUTECS MAFs - only dif is whether they're Japan or USA-made. So, yeah - limited availability on your year. I'd check w/the used auto parts yards for one, too. And try Car-part.com. Lastly and this may not be a viable option, but do some research on swapping the ECU/ECM to a '92-'94 Legacy as the 5speed and Automatics used the same MAF. Per this pinout diagram the only diff is the 'barometric pressure sensor': https://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/ But, IIRC, the IAC and injectors were also different on the '90-'91 model. But may still work w/the newer ECU? Just a (bad?) thought. For more old Legacy info check here: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/

Another point if someone has to do an ej18 swap with the wiring change is that the ej18 block still has the threaded hole to instal a knock sensor into.

92 ECUs are not transmission-specific. But 90-91 MT use a different MAF and IAC than the rest of the 90-94 Legacy non-turbo engines. A 90 MT likely won't run right with a 92 ECU unless you swap on the MAF and IAC from a 90-91 AT or any 92-94.