edrach

You won't be disappointed with the Bentley book; IMHO it's the best service manual for an '84.

What year Impreza? Center diff changed in '97. Just find a junkyard Impreza of the right year and find one that has significant front end damage (or other damage that resulted in winding up in the junkyard). Pull the rear section off the transmission and install it on your car. Just don't forget to replace the gear oil after you're finished. The center diff from the '97 and up models will cost around $600 from the dealer. Much easier and cheaper to just replace the whole housing. By the way any Legacy and Impreza of the same vintage will work just fine. Has nothing to do with being 4.111 or 3.900 since the center diff is the same for both.

How to keep your Subaru Alive by Larry Owens is a great introductory book for the early EA81 cars. Very basic but effective none the less. Might be a pdf copy available here on the Board. Subaru 1600, 1800 Service Manual by Robert Bentley (ISBN 0-8376-0270-X). This is a Bentley re-write of the Factory Service Manual. And in some ways, it is better than the factory version. Geared for the true mechanic who's willing to really dig into servicing his own Subaru. Covers 1978 to 1984. Find them on-line, ebay, Amazon or http://www.books4cars.com.

Nicely done and written up. This should really be reposted in the USMB repair manual. Perhaps a moderator can move it or copy it there.

For those of you who might miss my update of an old posting, here's the pertinent information on the light, portable 1.5 ton quick pump floor jack. A coupon in this Sunday's Seattle Times has it for $59.99 plus tax. Lowest price I've ever seen. "Time to resurrect this post since this past Sunday's Seattle Times had a full page ad with coupons for a variety of things including the quick pump floor jack for $59.99 with the coupon. (Lot # 68053/69252) for sale at $59.99 plus tax according to the ad."

Time to resurrect this post since this Sunday's Seattle Times had a full page ad with coupons for a variety of things including the quick pump floor jack for $59.99 with the coupon. (Lot # 68053/69252) for sale at $59.99 plus tax was the ad.

I don't know why it's so hard to find the p/n for the crush washer, but here's a link to buy some on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-10PC-Subaru-Oil-Drain-Plug-Crush-Washer-Gaskets-11126-AA000-/150689535619 Personally, I buy them from the dealer; that way I know it's the right part.

An update from Paul: Hi all! Just a couple days until the PRIMITIVE RallyCross at PIR. We have moved the venue (by request of PIR) to the "normal" rallyx area inside the track instead of the big field on the outside. I will be able to make an exciting and chanllenging course there. Turnout looks low, so we will get lots of runs, I might do 4 in one direction and 4 reversed.... (thinking about it) Key thing to note is that Cascade Sports Car Club will be running a track event at the same time, so we need to cross over the track before 8:15am or at 40 minute intervals thereafter. So to get across the track, we cross at Turn 8 on the backside of the track, therefore: do not enter the main gate of PIR, continue northwest on N. Broadacre Rd until you are alongside the golf course and turn left into the track to cross at Turn 8. Registration begins at 8am on Sunday and the track closes at 8:15am so don't be late! Thanks for pre-registering. Please spread the word on Special Stage and Dirty Impreza/Nasioc/etc about the event and event details. Thanks, Pe mmy cell: 503-886-9229

Engine is non-interference so the worst that can happen if the belt breaks is the engine/car will just stop. If it happens in heavy traffic that can be a cause for concern, but the engine will not bend any valves in that case. What I'm saying is, don't lose any sleep over it, but change it when funds become available and before you plan on any long trips. A/C: you got the correct advice; get the parts off a junked Impreza. Find someone who has experience with cooling systems and get a quote. My suspicion is that the compressor is seized; I find it hard to believe that pieces of metal will migrate much further than the compressor itself. Rear disks can be interchanged with ones from a early 90's Legacy. Our '97 Impreza has the rear disks from a '93 Legacy wagon. Only issue is use the Legacy handbrake cable since the Impreza cable won't mate up with the Legacy rears. The Legacy cable is about a foot longer so you'll have to run it so it doesn't interfere with the drive train. Update on the rear brakes: In our case, both our Imp and the donor Legacy were AWD. Not sure if the rear disks from an AWD Legacy will transfer easily to your 2WD Imp.

I can't believe I didn't post this earlier. July 1st after Paul's Rally School (http://www.get-primitive.com/) on June 29 and 30th. RALLYCROSS July 1st at PIR (Portland International Raceway) West Delta Park - 1940 North Victory Boulevard, Portland, Oregon 97217 Primitive Enterprises will be putting on an SCCA RallyCross at PIR (Portland International Raceway) on Sunday July 1st. This event will be run on a field area inside the track, next to the turn 8 inside track gate. Do not go in the main gate entrance for the track, follow the signs indicating RallyCross traffic stay on Broadacre Rd to the turn 8 gates.(the yellow line on map). Anyone with a vehicle as described below is invited to join in the fun Entrants will need to register and pay an entry fee (see second paragraph below for details). >> RallyCross: A race against the clock. Events are normally run on a grass field, and are open to the public. Drivers must have valid driver's >> license. Any street legal vehicle in safe condition can run (no lifted nor soft top vehicles). Go online to http://www.scca.com <http://www.scca.com/> to find RallyCross >> Rule book.. Entrants run in predetermined classes based on vehicle to even out the competitions. Individual drivers start the course at >> intervals, and are timed as they go around/between the cones. Time penalties are added for going the wrong way or knocking cones over. >> Drivers make multiple runs and the shortest total time in each class wins. On July 1st, registration will open at 8:00 am and close at 9:00 am,. All entrants must checkin at registration, plan on being there by 8:00 am (no later than 8:30 am). At registration the RallyCross entry fee will be collected or prepayment will be verified. Students of the Rally Driving School will be marked as prepaid (the RX fee is included in a paid school tuition). If not attending the school, there are two links online at http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/nwrallyschool.htm which can be used to early register for the RallyCross only with a discounted entry fee. On the website look for the links labeled Early REGISTRATION for Sunday July 1st, SCCA RallyCross (one for SCCA members and the other for non-SCCA members). These links will be available until Friday, June 29. Early registration discounted RallyCross entry fees (available online thru Friday, June 29) are: * SCCA members - $35 * Non-SCCA members - $40 After June 29, full RallyCross entry fees to be collected at the event registration, on July 1, will be: * SCCA members - $40 * Non-SCCA members - $45 Be prepared to pay entry fee in cash on event day. The July 1 RallyCross course, designed by Paul Eklund, should be very fun and flowing. Lots of runs, tight organization. The plan is to run all car classes together, starting at 9:30am. All 60 entrants got 5 runs and were done by 2:30pm at the Primitive RX last October and this time should be the same. Any questions, comments or concerns contact Paul Eklund at pauleklund.msn.com Primitive Performance Rally Driving School 9460 SW Tigard St Suite 104 Tigard, OR 97223 503-624-2139 http://www.get-primitive.com This notice courtesy of Gloria Hale gloria@rallymom.com 503.635.6330 (h) --- 503.709.6240 © Member of the <http://www.oregonrally.com/> OREGON RALLY GROUP Events calendar at <http://www.oregonrally.com/> http://www.oregonrally.com COMPETITORS/VOLUNTEERS - Join the Fun!

RallyCross date added! Full one day regional on Sunday, July 15 at PIR, 1940 N Victory Blvd, Portland, OR. 2WD in the morning session, AWD in the afternoon session • Registration/Tech for Morning Session is 8am to 9pm • Registration/Tech for Afternoon Session is 12 noon to 1pm There will be racing on the track, so to get in to where we race you will have to cross the track at the turn 8 gate. The T8 gate is reached by using the North entrance to PIR off of N Broadacre Rd. ORG will place signs at the intersection to the main entrance of PIR to direct RallyCross traffic straight onto Broadacre Rd. More info at oregonrally.com. Email me at rallycross@oregonrally.com.

When I called the parts guy I deal with at Subaru, he indicated that the square version was no longer available and replaced by the tear drop version. Operationally they are identical.

Two day weekend in Chehalis WA for rallycross, July 28th and 29th. I was there last year and I believe there was on site camping available. Look for details from ORG about the event at http://www.oregonrally.com. Here's a video from this event last year:

Ran the Saturday portion yesterday and it was a blast. The course was quite challenging and long enough for the times to run from 1:20 and up (mostly 1:35 and up---very few cars managed a run in the 1:20s). With the low turnout (Father's Day weekend), we managed 9 runs for all cars. I'm looking forward to their next event in July at Chehalis, WA.

There seems to be a physical difference between the automatic and 5MT harmonic balancers but I've found they are all interchangeable. I'm not quite sure why there is a difference. I've tended to collect them at the pull a part yards just so I have a spare when I need it since the rubber does fail in these.

You might say I'm half-fast.:clap:

My genius kid got it the first try! Two tricks: You need to be superfast doing the 10 on/off cycles with the key. I thought I was doing it in 10 seconds, he did it in 5 and the car beeped and we were almost done. One click on the remote, remove the key, 3 more beeps and it was all over. The trick to doing it quickly is to avoid the "hitch" in the middle. When you turn off the ignition, there's a step (hitch) half-way to off where you have to push in on the key to turn it off all the way. So, the 2nd trick is to push in while you're turning off to get past the hitch quickly enough to get the 10 cycles done in well under 10 seconds. By the way, JRach works for a tuning shop in the Green Lake area of Seattle. He does Subaru primarily but can work on almost anything. Drop me a PM if you want to know where (that's enough of a plug I feel I can give you posting on an open board). (Moderators can remove this if I've violated any rule---you won't hurt my feelings:)).

14 is good.

I did check to see that the battery was actually there and ready to go since the remote was bought new from the dealer. I don't think the remote has any interaction with the car, until the car signals that it's in programming mode by blowing the horn once.

You're welcome. However, if you can find someone local with a digital voltmeter I'd recheck that 15.4V output on your alternator. That's abnormally high.

I'm still without success. I re-read the directions and it said turn the key "on and off" and I realized I was counting my 10 steps starting with the ignition off and counting the first step at on. So I tried it with the ignition on and counting each step with the key off and ending the 10 steps with the ignition off instead of on. Still no success. I called my youngest son and he claims he can do it. I'll catch up with him tomorrow and maybe have more success.

Glad you found the problem and fixed it. Thanks also for posting the repair. So often there's a thread about this long and then the OP disappears without a solution never to be heard from again; very annoying.

Thanks, I have the Alpine system and the instructions here are similar but slightly different from what is in the link you supplied. I'm beginning to think I have the wrong remote (mine has the third button for the trunk and the directions only show that for the "keyless" remote which I shouldn't have). I'll look into that some more. These are the instructions I have (slightly different from the Joe Spitz posting). http://subaruonlineparts.com/pdf/subaru-remote-programming-instructions.pdf

:burnout:Got a new daily driver this past weekend. A 2002 Impreza Outback Sport. Of course it only came with one remote and one key. So first thing I did was have a master key cut from the VIN and buy a second remote. Turns out the original square remote has been replaced by a tear-dropped shaped one with the programming instructions which are the same as for the square one. I can't program it. After all the initial instructions to get the car into the programming mode, the horn should blow once to indicate the program mode is active and then you press each button one at a time. When done remove the ignition key and the horn will blow three times to indicate the program mode is ended. Trouble is not with the remote, but with the car since it never blows the horn to indicate you're in the programming mode. Anyone have a similar issue and how did you fix it?

Firstly, is your multimeter digital or analog? If analog it could be off by a volt or so. If digital, I'm back to thinking the bulbs are burned out due to overvoltage. Quick test, replace one headlamp bulb with a known good one. Check the good bulb for continuity before installing it. Check the bulb you took out with the meter and see if it's truly burned out; if it's burned out, I'm back to thinking bad alternator. After you install the new bulb turn on the lights and if that side lights up, we KNOW it's a bad alternator. By the way, how did it go checking the fusible links? In either event, try and find a digital voltmeter for testing in the future.