edrach

Thanks for the reply; sorry for my faulty memory. It looks like I might need to top up the charge slightly. I never did find out what refrigerant you used on it and I want to make sure I add something that's compatible. I've got the gauges and know how to use them. We have Sureshot, Hotshot, R12 and R134a available. If I remember correctly you did use a blend after finding all the leaks in the system; just don't remember which one. I hope everything is okay with you; Regards, ---ed---

Well those links no longer go where they're supposed to. But I did find my old post in the USRM. I took pics while Qman and I installed the swaybar on the Brat and then sent them to Whiteline because their generic instructions were useless. They in turn did post them so the info can still be found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76011

This far in advance, and you're looking for something else to do?! Come on by and show us your collection of enkies!

And how does connecting positive to positive and negative to negative fry the ECU? Other than connecting the cables backwards (which could certainly create some damage) I don't see the point here. There's a valid point from the previous poster on connecting the last negative cable end to a good ground (engine, frame, whatever) well away from the battery itself.

I'm a little confused here. Which battery died? His out of the Marquis or yours? Another item, you were able to jump start the car and it ran for 15 seconds and then died. The battery is only needed to start the car; once started, the alternator should take over to keep the car running. There could be an alternator issue here also. Lastly, the car sat for a year with a discharged battery. Bad for the battery; in a discharged state, the lead plates become sulfated (coated with a sulfur compound) which renders the battery useless. For all intents and purposes, a sulfated battery is dead, will not take a charge, and the condition is not reversible. It's very important to keep a battery at full charge when it is not in regular use. A fully charged battery will not allow the sulfation process to occur. A 2 Amp trickle charger on a car in storage is all that's needed to allow the battery to survive long periods of non-use. Frankly, I don't feel you owe your friend anything. You offered to help, but there are still other issues here which had little or nothing to do with what you did.

A few years ago you upgraded/fixed the a/c on my '84 blue brat. All I remember is your shop was in Bremerton. I can't remember your username, but I have a followup question for you if you remember me or the Brat.

I just ordered my 4th kit from them; all on different Subarus over the years. The original owner was Gene Henderson who sold to the stage rally population and he was meticulous about the quality of the parts. I doubt Tyler the current owner would cheapen the product when his supplier is still in business. In any event, when I get the new harness I'll inspect it and post brands and such. I know for a fact that the harness has a heavy duty bulb socket to withstand the extra current used by the bulbs. When my first set of higher wattage bulbs melted the socket after a few weeks (didn't have the harness at the time---and I was younger and dumber then too) of use, I ordered the harness. I repair electronics for a living and the wire gauge is definitely sufficient for the extra current draw. The relays and fuse holders are both quality products, but I'll post that as I said. Bottom line is everyone should upgrade the wiring, fuses, sockets and relays if you're installing higher wattage bulbs. It doesn't matter the source of your harness or parts; just do it right. You're better off in the long run with better lighting and safe from burning up the wiring or worse yet, the car.

edrach and Jeanne '84 Brat Turbone and missus are tentatives. Carrie and myself will most likely be there. Also might have my parents in tow with us since they will be here that weekend Qman is tentative. mstrofsinanju looks like he's coming. Ratty2Austin will be there if his car is running! (Of course it is). Schatzi will be there.

I'm thinking it would be a fine idea to get together the old school crowd (newbies allowed) for some coffee and great baked items. I'm thinking around 2pm on a Sunday (maybe 10/21). Place is in Lake City just north of 125th on the main drag. They have a rear entrance that opens into a parking lot with more space to view each other's cars than the street parking out front. Place is called Kaffeklatsch (German---duh!---) for a place to have coffee, pastry and time to relax and enjoy company. It's kid friendly if you have young ones to drag along. Let me know who's interested in the next post so I can let the management know how many to expect. More info on the place can be found at http://www.kaffeeklatschseattle.com/ Just to add to the information since this is an afternoon meet; Kaffeeklatsch is about a block away from wongleflute's Drive-in. You can come early and have lunch at wongleflute's and then desert at Kaffeeklatsch.

Interesting, I just ordered a fully assembled harness from Competition Limited for my 2002 Impreza for $56 plus shipping. I've bought from them before and have always been pleased with the quality of the product. Also I did order the 80/100w bulbs for it.

Unfortunately, the Datsun 510 group is willing to pay $400 and up for one and that's driven the price out of sight for me.

$150 is way too much, even if it's a LSD. Open diff at Seattle PickNPull is $85 after they add in all the extra fees and tax.

Competition Limited in Michigan will sell you a wiring harness for your car along with options for higher wattage bulbs. This is a significant improvement but polishing the lenses will help you get the most out of your upgrade. http://competitionlimited.com/ Ignore the HID stuff; sounds good but if the HID is not designed for your reflector and lenses, it's not worth the expense.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned replacing the original carb with a true Weber (32/36 DGAV). It's a fairly easy conversion and will run scads better than the carter weber that's in there now. Lots of write-ups on here for that; new cost is around $250 for the kit; used have shown up on the Board for $100 to $200. Check out local emissions codes first; the Weber is cleaner than the original for emissions, but local laws (like in California) require original equipment and not aftermarket. Another easy conversion is the rear disk upgrade. Worth the time and effort to hunt the junkyards for the parts and do it. Also, try to establish a value for your Brat now with your insurance company. I have a letter from my insurance where they accepted my valuation of $6000 for our '84. Better to have a firm number now before any damage occurs than to find with an insurance adjuster who totals your car out for $500 (trust me, I've been there and done that). Best of luck with your fine looking Brat.

If your Legacy is like my Impreza, you have two fuse boxes in your car. One is under the dash on the driver's side just to the left of the steering column. The other is in the engine compartment up again the driver's side fender (has a bunch of relays as well as fuses under the cover). I hope that helps. Also, if you have an owner's manual for the car it will tell you which fuse performs what function.

Turbo versions are the most likely to have them altho non-turbo had them as an option.

I've seen too many LSDs with the label completely missing. Many people remove them at the junkyard to allow them to return later with the tools to remove the diff only to find someone smarter and quicker had scored "their" diff.

Easiest way to check at the junkyard is get the rear wheels off the ground and rotate one wheel and watch the other. If the other rotates in the same direction it's likely a limited slip diff; if the other rotates in the opposite direction, it's an open diff. Easiest way to check ratio is to pull the cover and count teeth on the ring and pinion gear and divide ring teeth by pinion teeth to get the ratio.

This was an example to demonstrate that there's quite a bit of energy taken out of the battery when starting; usually more than can be put back into the battery in a 15 minute drive. I picked numbers that were reasonable and that I could calculate in my head. Sorry.

Not quite sure how I double posted this, but no need to see this twice. Deleted.

Not quite the case. Starting current can be very high; I've actually never measured it, but I would suspect 300 amps for 15 seconds is not unusual; that would draw 75 amp/minutes (300Ax1/4min) of charge out of your battery. Now you have a 75 amp alternator which supplies all of your energy to drive the car down the road; remember the battery is only a reservoir which will supplies energy to start the car. Now drive the car for 15 minutes which uses 50A from the alternator to drive the car down the road. That leaves 25A available to recharge the battery and replace what was lost. That's 375A/minutes (25Ax15min). That's just barely enough to replace what was used in starting the car. Now add in other factors: an alternator that's not quite up to snuff, a battery that's not taking a full charge anymore, running your headlights during your 15 minute drive, or your stereo, etc. and you can see that a short daily drive will eventually deplete your battery and give you problems. If you only drive short distances for each start of the car, it would help if you buy a trickle charger and plug the battery into that overnight. A trickle charger that supplies two amps per hour overnight would bring your battery up to snuff pretty well. (2A x 480min = 960A minutes of charge). At $15 to $20 cost for the charger, that's a pretty cheap solution until you find what is actually causing your problem.

The solution has been discovered. It wasn't the axle, it was the rear diff. Altho it was a 3.900, it was JDM version and it takes an axle with 22 splines on the inside; USDM versions have grooves for 25 splines on the inside. As far as I know all '93 to 2001 Impreza use the same axles and 25 inner spline diffs.

I'm trying to go back to stock on our '97 impreza wagon (originally 3.900 and I had converted it to 4.111). Re-installed a 3.900 transmission along with a 3.900 rear diff from a '95 Brighton (tranny type 752VT4AA). For some reason, the inner joints don't want to pop into the diff. I've always felt there's no difference and I must be doing something wrong. Any thoughts?

A little easier to find info on Oregon 1000 here: http://oregonrally.com/Oregon1000

From the org-l yahoo board: We hear it was fast, foggy, and fun, with lots of stage miles, lots of trees. Some cars need fixed before Mt. Hood, but some other ones just need some shakedown time (or the team needs some more practice together). Well, have I got a deal for you: next Saturday, there's a rally running from Portland all the way to Coos Bay, and less than 1/4 of that is transit miles. Sunday the rally comes back, all the way to Albany, and *still* 5 section miles for every 2 transit miles. It's the Oregon 1000, sometimes called the Port Orford rally. If your wheels still roll, you should try to make it. The organizers are long-time stage rally workers (like years). Let's give a little back to those guys. No helmets required (open roads). Speeds are set below the legal limit. This could be a great way to work out bugs in your equipment or procedures. The routebook is complete, mileaged at every turn. The ATC/Finish times are fixed, & perfect intervals are maintained. And if there's a huge dust problem (there won't be), you can dial in up to 6.5 minutes of delay without a penalty. Now it's not a flat-out rally. It's not a race. But it is/has: * measured with precision * filled with choice roads (pretty smooth, too -- no scheduled service!) * a great way to practice timekeeping and in-car coordination. * an ORG-L tradition * a bargain, for the miles: less than $250 entry fee * graveled ( or skinny tarmac) * Hungarian food * the 'Social Room' in Coos Bay http://oregonrally.com/?ai1ec_event=oregon-1000k is the website, but ping Chris H. on the FB, or ask one of the many Tabors about it. Marinus p.s. I have a top-level Equipped class navigator (Marvin C., from RASC in Seattle), looking for a steady-footed driver. That entry fee is already paid!