edrach

That ebay price is excellent, you should get it. Also, consider looking for a water pump for your car; if it's been over 90K miles since the water pump was replaced, you might as well do it while you're doing the belts. The labor here is what's most expensive; no point in doing the labor again in 6 months when the old water pump fails.

No, you might even be considered Stock since your car exists somewhere in stock form (I think); this rule change will require almost everyone to list their car and parts for a ruling on which class it should be running in. SCCA strikes again; a bunch of "suits" who structure events around insurance requirements and convenience with no clue as to whether the rules are practical, fair, or good for the growth of the sport.

It'll be interesting I'm sure. I'll see how I manage. Makes me think I want to convince my wife to let me bring her Impreza instead and run stock. But I'll likely run a full season with the Brat since I do it for fun anyway.

Sorry, I just re-read your post and realize that you have a Loyale and not a Legacy. Only differences is that the Loyale belts are slightly more difficult to replace and might take another hour. I'd have to recheck the parts cost for your car since I haven't done one on my old '86 GL for long enough that I don't remember the parts cost. So take my other comments about keeping the car because they don't change and continue to get a price from a 2nd source. Having just replaced the belt and all the idlers and tensioner on my '91 legacy, the $850 is not out of line. I bought all the parts OEM with 35% off list price and it came to $550 and I didn't have to replace the harmonic balancer (not an obscure term...it's the main crank pulley). So a fair price for just the parts is around $635. Add two hours labor and you get to $850 pretty fast. I wouldn't think that I'd junk the car is the rest of the car is in reasonably good condition and you planned to keep it for another 60K miles.

Cool, I can do powerpoint. I still don't know much more. We'll see how it works, but the most obvious thing appears to be that the low cost "beater" is pretty much relegated to being non-competitive. My Brat which would be considered Prep 4WD class could be running against a prepped WRX. I don't want to criticize before seeing the event structure but I would think SCCA has managed to exclude the "low budget" weekend warrior from fielding a competitive vehicle since there is no differentiation between a 80 HP vehicle and 200 HP vehicle within classes.

Finally the regs are out and being published now. This is preliminary and you can read all about it here (you'll be ahead of me since I'm not sure I can "read" Power Point). NORPAC Rally Crossers: As you may know, your voice was loud and strong in the creation of the NEW 2006 SCCA Rally Cross Rules. While Divisional Stewards from across the Country contributed and participated in the formulation of these rules, your participation and support over the many years carried much weight that was brought to bear at that National level. While some things have changed, I feel the traditional history and spirit of Rally Cross was successfully retained and supported. I am happy to announce that the new 2006 Rules are being PRINTED this week and rule books should be available starting at the National Convention in Kansas City February 2nd. While there were some minor language and grammatical changes still being ironed out regarding the rest of the Rule Book regarding operations, safety and other topics, we made it our Priority to solidify the Class Structure and Rules so that competitors can be prepared to start the season off on the right foot. What I have done is prepared a Rally Cross Class Rules overview in Power Point that you can go to on-line and browse. I will take a quick second to BRIEFLY review the Class Structure now and you can click the link below for the specifics on Prep Level and class clarifications. There are now THREE basic Class Prep Levels... 1 - Stock (implies STOCK vehicles with minimal mods) 2 - Prepared (bolted on mods) 3 - Modified (fabricated mods) Within each Class Prep Level there are further configurations as follows: 1 - Stock ......Two Wheel Drive FRONT ......Two Wheel Drive REAR ......FOUR/ALL Wheel Drive 2 - Prepared ......Two Wheel Drive FRONT ......Two Wheel Drive REAR ......FOUR/ALL Wheel Drive 3 - Modified ......Two Wheel Drive ......Four Wheel Drive As I said, there are further clarifications in the attached link but I think you get the idea. Gone are the old and familiar Stage Rally Class names that we have grown to know and love. While I'm disappointed in seeing this particular change, I understand it. In case you are still wondering "WHY?, the reason lies in the fact that Stage Rally was sold to Rally America and the class names were sold WITH stage rally. So, it is now a trademark of Rally America and the SCCA is no longer authorized to use them. However, on closer inspection you will see that the new class names reflect what we had been doing already with the exception of some additional breakdowns in the Stock and Modified Classes. Production is Stock. G2, G5 and PGT is Prepared. Open Class is now Modified. Different names, same game. Again, for more information and specifics, write your Regional Rally Cross Director or myself or you can follow the link to the new rules presentation. That link is: http://www.pregrid.com/RX/RX_Rules_06.ppt Here is the basic narrative by slide 1 - Intro 2 - Traditional Rally Cross Descriptions, but is it more? 3 - Since Rally Cross is indeed more, understanding our history and future is key to Competitors and the Rules Set 4 - How we find ourselves needing a new Rule Set 5 - Who Rally Cross Competitors REALLY are effects the design of the Rules Set 6 - Beyond the easily identified competitors, there are NEW markets to explore. Creating a unified Rule Set allows us to tap these new markets wherever they are 7 - The unfinished 2005 rules promoted disassociation while the new 2006 rules promote unity and growth 8 - Mandated rules provide Unity and Reduce Liability while still being flexible at the Regional Level. So what ARE these rules? 9 - Basic Vehicle Eligibility 10 - Three Prep Level Overview and Basic underlying descriptions/reasoning 11 - Stock Classes and Prep 12 - Stock Classes and Prep cont. 13 - Prepared Classes and Prep 14 - Prepared Classes and Prep cont 15 - Prepared Classes and Prep cont 16 - Modified Classes and Prep 17 - Modified Classes and Prep cont 18 - Now that classes are identified and unified, how are they implemented? SIDE NOTE - What classes CAN'T we use and why? 19 - A note about changes to Penalties 20 - What is a DNF and how is it worth? 21 - Claims and Protests... We're SERIOUS this year 22 - Don't forget our purpose... these rules REFLECT it and so should our Organizers 23 - Final Thoughts about our Future 24 - Q & A If you cannot read a Power Point presentation, you can email me for a WORD version of the file that I can send to you individually. Personally, I am very excited about the Rally Cross program for 2006. It's going to be good for the sport to have a comprehensive NATIONAL program to back our local efforts. With that kind of support, we can more effectively advertise, seek and acquire new venues and places to race, grow our event budget, buy more cones and better equipment, etc. LOTS of good things will come about because we now have a cohesive program Nation Wide. I can't wait to see what the new year holds. I also want to take this opportunity to extend a warm welcome to April Smith, who will be filling my shoes locally as the Oregon Region Rally Cross Director and Manager. She joins a respectable group of dedicated Rally Crossers throughout the Northern Pacific Division of the SCCA that continues to lead the United States in our Rally Cross program. There are some big efforts developing in Alaska, Montana and Northern California that I think will give our long standing presence as the "big boys of Rally Cross" a run for our money. I have been your NORPAC Rally Cross Steward for the past two years and this year I am taking a more aggressive role in growing the Rally Cross programs in other Regions within our Division. The seeds planted last year are taking hold and there are new programs developing and a greater interest in our attempt to provide a Divisional Championship this year. Last year it was nearly impossible to get the Regions to agree on a rule structure that made a Divisional possible. This year, we have a cohesive program that will bind us all together and make that Divisional Title available to a lucky few in each class. Our Division has grown to NINE Regions this year. That's NINE Regional Rally Cross Championships and 72 Regional Championship Titles, 216 Invitations to the Divisional Championships but only 8 Divisional Championship Titles up for grabs. That's not including the shot at a National Rally Cross Championship Title at the end of the year! Like Solo, we have planned for a National Marketing program that will attract Sponsors and other exposure to the Rally Cross Program and it is my supreme hope that this kind of support will filter its way down through the Divisional events into the Regional events and be a direct benefit to each and every one of you. Here's to a great 2006!!! Scott Kovalik YOUR NORPAC Rally Cross Steward scott@pregrid.com dkov@pacifier.com

Cool, the RCW paragraphs should be added to the USRM under a new heading called LEGAL!

Tailgatewagon is right; if you can afford to wait, time is on your side. A short note to your state's Insurance Comissioner detailing your dissatisfaction never hurts either.

Purge solenoid is on order from 1stsubaruparts.com; I'll have it tomorrow and it'll be in as soon as I have a dry evening or clean out the garage.

Check the classifieds in your local paper, check craigslist, check autotrader, kelly blue book, NADA, and so forth. Remind them what they owe you is REPLACEMENT value (less deductible unless it's the other guy's fault) not what they are trying to tell you it's worth. Good luck.

That's tough; I wonder if they'd allow it in Truck/Suv class at the RallyX?

I tried clearing the codes by pulling fuse 14. I left the fuse out for more than 6 hours since I was using the Brat for work yesterday. Codes did not clear; they are still there. No CEL today on my 30 minute drive to work.

Welcome, from another ex-virgin. You are not alone.

I had the displeasure of replacing the clutch on my '91 Legacy about 3 months ago....I pulled the tranny. It took Corky and me just over 10 hours. I did rent a transmission jack for that repair. Two weeks ago, I had to replace the engine (don't ask). Pulled the engine, moved the flywheel and new clutch off the old engine and mounted it on the new engine, and re-installed the new engine. It took us 5 hours. Do you need anymore encouragement? We did have an engine hoist and did the job in my garage. Seems you have a block and tackle to hoist the engine out.

If you have doubts about the gas cap, replace it; it's not that expensive and will put your mind at ease....and might even prevent a recurrence of that pesky check engine light.

Go with Legacy777's info for checking the codes; well written and clear. If I can do it, anyone can.

Unknown, but I suspect it's quite old. Original car has 240K on it; JDM engine was installed at 190K with original manifold as far as I know. I pulled engine and used it's manifold instead of my own so it's conceivable the temp sensor is original; certainly no less than 50K if it was replaced when the JDM was originally installed. Update: I queried the previous shop that serviced the car that the JDM engine came out of and they never replaced the temp sensor.

Sometime, when the rains stop, drop me a PM and we'll take a trip to Pull a Part in Lynnwood and we'll (you'll) pull an axle for practice; with luck it'll be a good one you can use to replace the one you have with the torn boot. Timing check is in order for the backfire; I wouldn't tear into the carb unless I had a good reason; no sense fixing what isn't (or might not be) broken. Congratulations on the fine purchase; if this is the one on Craigslist or the one I saw up on 85th a few weeks ago I think you got a good deal. They are great little cars.

To some extent, sounds like a wheel bearing. Does the noise go away on right or left turns when you're keeping the rpm up? Another thing that masquerades as wheel bearing noise is a loose castle nut on one of the axles. Axle nut is easy to check, but bearings a little harder.

I was thinking of replacing the temp sensor since I had gotten a temp code on the old engine and have a 30 day old OEM sensor in the old engine. But I'm not getting any temp codes and the scantool indicates normal temps everytime I've accessed it. Thanks for the suggestions; I'll be trying something to loosen up the IAC when I get enough information together. Thanks.

Thanks Josh. No I haven't tried to clear the codes yet (too much rain out here to play in my driveway). Will disconnecting the battery actually do it on my '91 or should I follow the procedure for clearing ECU codes as per your website? Thanks again for your help.

I get the CEL only occasionally. Engine is warmed up and I come back, start it, and get idle around 900 plus or minus 100 (pulses slightly). At the same time I get a IAC duty cycle reading of around 55% which should result in an idle around 1800 rpm. CEL goes off within 5 seconds of my putting it in gear and driving off. My suspicion is that the IAC doesn't open consistently and causes that CEL. I'm discounting the Injector errors since the car runs too well otherwise.

I finally got around to pulling the codes (thanks Josh for the great write-up). Here they are: 14, 15, 16, 17, 24, and 35. First four are the injectors, 24 is the IAC, and 35 is the Purge Solenoid Valve. I'm really not too concerned about the codes since they happen so seldom, but I do want to address them. The 24 is likely the most critical since it's related to the intermittant slow return to idle speed (which is happening less and less often). I'm not sure I care about the Purge Solenoid; anyone know what it does other than run something through the charcoal canister? I'm wondering whether running a can of Seafoam in my next tank of gas will do something good for the fuel injectors as well as the IAC. My engine is a former JDM engine with 50K on it in someone else's car which I just installed two weeks ago to resolve the massive blowby issue of my original engine. It had only been sitting a month after a massive clutch failure. I would expect it has a total of 80 to 100K on it and runs well (certainly better than my original engine). Looking for input here since I'm treading on new/unknown territory.

Regarding tire size affecting your speedometer, you can calculate the error using this: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Try putting a wrench on the crank pulley and turning it over by hand (ignition OFF). If it doesn't turn 2 full revolutions you my have water in the cylinder.