edrach

I'm with the axle theory. If the violent shaking occurs during acceleration and goes away completely when you let off on the gas, it's the inner joint of the axle (one or both). CVJs will click on turning; DOJs can shake violently under positive throttle and and smooth out instantly when you coast (never click on turning). I've had this so bad once that I thought the tranny would fall out. Both the EA81 and EA82 drivetrains have a 3.900 ratio front and rear so that shouldn't be an issue unless you did something really strange with the EA82 swap. My comments apply to the gen2 Brat; I'm not sure which version your "early" brat is.

Considering it was a housecall, it was likely a fair price.....but I think you might have gotten hosed. It depends on what he actually did. Switch was likely okay, but he probably had to pull and repair the lock cylinder to fix it. If he was there less than an hour I wouldn't be happy with the cost. Not an uncommon problem with the older Subarus. I had both my Brats done before the the ignition failed and I paid about $120 each to have the lock cylinder replaced and keys cut (no house call).

Odd, it worked for me when I posted it and now it doesn't. For the time being, the primitive link still works; you can send them an email requesting more information on the rallycross school. I'll work on it from here after tomorrow.

I'm sure I would...maybe even more; but, it's a long commute to work! Merry Christmas to you and your family also, Matt.

Paul Eklund is hosting a snow rallyschool in Jan (20-22nd) in Spokane, WA. www.get-primitive.com go to school link. www.rallytales.net/rallyschool/index.html

Also, Jason at www.1stsubaruparts.com offers 35% off list on genuine Subaru parts.

Generally speaking Chiltons is horrible; I've been looking for a FSM for the Imp since we got it and haven't found one. Contrary to popular belief, I don't know everything!

Thanks for the reply. I'll look harder but I suspect it's different. I can't believe no one has done one of these before.

Sorry, my Impreza does not have any screws above the knobs. Are they hidden somewhere?

Thanks, I'll try that.

Link gets me this: vBulletin Message Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms.

Lights behind the temp/fan control panel in our '97 Impreza are out. Anyone know how to get at the bulbs to replace them?

PIR has a public relations problem with the local residents from the scuttlebutt I hear; not sure if that will affect any non-tarmac driving activities.

Question which car are you using this diff on? AWD or 4WD tranny and if 4WD, are you in FWD while this problem is happening?

I'm not sure how good a price you got for your seal, but in the future, you might try www.1stsubaruparts.com for a better price on OEM parts. Welcome to the Board.

If you are talking the blower assembly for the heater, it is quite easy to replace...three 10mm bolts and the connector if I remember correctly (after removing the cosmetic covers under the glove box). Pull a Part price for a blower is under $15.

The heavy wire connector is the one which should output the voltage to the battery.

I guess you were fortunate, but I wouldn't take my car there if my life depended on it.

Check the voltage as it comes out of the alternator; if it's above 14VDC there and only 12V at the battery you likely have a bad battery cable. My suspicion is the alternator is bad even though it tested good outside of the car.

No Brainer, Smart Service.

Funny, but I use CR as a guide for things I know nothing about. For things I think I know something about, I've found I often disagree with them. Tires is one of the things I disagree with them. My personal feelings regarding the snow tire tests is that in my past life when running winter rallies, I found that those drivers who were not sponsored/supported by a tire company, the tire of choice was always a Hakki.....and if the Finns can't make a good snow tire, no one can. They certainly have an incentive with with their weather.

One thing not mentioned by others; the turbo engines run quite hot under the hood and the rubber hoses tend to fail. If you plan on keeping the car and doing a full rebuild, order all the hoses from Subaru (www.1stsubaruparts.com is a good source of OEM parts at 35% off list price; call them and ask for Jason in parts....he's most helpful). Welcome to the Board. The turbo is a fun car to drive even without increased boost, but watch out for overheating since it will kill you head gaskets.

That model is non-interference. No worries; I've had the belts break twice on me while at highway speeds (I owned the car for over 150K miles) with no internal damage.

Low airflow.....maybe a faulty blower. Or if you live out in the country, it's not unheard of if a mouse hasn't build a nest in the air tunnels after the blower. Especially, if you leave crumbs of food in the car on a regular basis like I do.

Actually, it'll come back nicer than it left. I saw it today at the alignment shop and the paint job is just fine. The front end work is done and it just needs tires for the alloy wheels that I pulled out of my "stash". Monday it goes back to the body shop for an interior detailing. We should have it back by Wednesday or Thursday. Thank goodness for 0 deductible comprehensive coverage.