edrach

I'm not sure what the wattage rating on of the Sylvania bulbs is, but normally more light means more current. I installed a wiring harness/relay set on my Legacy and Impreza and use 55W/100W lamps for a significant improvement. Here's a copy of an old thread I posted a while back: I would recommend Competition Limited. They carry a complete line of headlamp harnesses and selection of bulbs for them. I don't have a website, but ask for Gene Henderson; he's been in this business a long time and knows his products well. I took a look on the website and couldn't find the non-HID headlight harnesses and I called and asked and he said he still carries them. He needs to know make, year, and model of car as well as bulb type. Give him a call if you can't find the info either. Competition Limited 2243 Sosna Drive, Pinckney MI 48169 (734) 878-5553 www.hioutputbulbs.com Sadly, Gene died a year ago, but the new owner is still supplying harnesses and bulbs. I'm not sure that the 'phone number goes to the new owner or not, but the link certainly does. Use the link since the address and 'phone # above is no longer current.

This showed up in today's Times; it might be of interest here. U.S. Forest Service Will Impose Standards for Off-Road Vehicles By FELICITY BARRINGER WASHINGTON, Nov. 2 - The United States Forest Service announced Wednesday that it would begin a nationwide process of designating which trails are suitable for use by off-road vehicles, a move intended to limit damage to national forests. Until now, the nation's 155 designated forests and 20 grasslands have not had uniform policies for off-road vehicles. Some Western forests gave them virtually unlimited access; others, like the Chattahoochee-Oconee forest in Georgia, provided designated trails. Under the final regulations announced Wednesday by the Forest Service chief, Dale Bosworth, designated trails will be the rule everywhere. Individual forest supervisors will decide which trails are available to the vehicles, whether free-form trails created in recent months or years by riders going cross-country should be included, and whether vehicles and their riders will be allowed to stray off into open country under limited circumstances. Mr. Bosworth said in a conference call that he hoped the plans would be completed in four years. Environmental advocates gave lukewarm praise to the decision to enforce standards to keep the vehicles on trails but criticized the lack of firm legal deadlines and of local forest supervisors' ability to include what the environmentalists call "renegade trails," paths carved willy-nilly by all-terrain vehicle users. Sales of all-terrain vehicles have risen tenfold, to 51 million, since 1972, said Jack Troyer, a regional forester. In that period, the vehicles have become a source of conflict on public lands. They provide their users access to beautiful, remote country and an adrenaline rush. In the eyes of their detractors, they inflict a combination of noise and industrial odors, and deep scars into quiet, unspoiled landscapes. "Some of these routes have evolved over the years, have been enjoyed by the public, don't do damage and are good routes," Mr. Troyer said. "It's our expectation that some of the user-created routes" will become part of the approved system of trails for motorized recreation. But Jim Furnish, a former Forest Service employee who is now a consultant to the Natural Trails and Waters Coalition, which seeks tighter restrictions on motorized recreation, said he worked for the service for 35 years and saw motorized recreation "on public land go from nonexistence to running amok." Mr. Furnish said the new regulations were inadequate. "This is a runaway fire," he said. "They needed a three-alarm response with engines. They're throwing a bucket of water on a raging inferno." At the Idaho office of the Blue Ribbon Coalition, a group of all-terrain vehicle users, the founder, Clark Collins, said he welcomed the new rules. "We feel pretty good about the final product," he said. "In fact we've worked cooperatively with the chief and his staff throughout this process."

Well, that should eliminate the dredded water truck. See you there Craig.

My guage came with the hardware and included two T-fittings and the sensor went into the center of the "T". Compression fittings for the other two legs matched the steel tubing running to the front cooler. The idea was to cut the tubing at a convenient spot and install the "T" and the sensor. Then all that was left was the wiring up to the guage. I wasn't too keen on cutting the tubing in case I didn't like the results, so I installed it with rubber ATF hose in the front and short sections of copper tubing for the compression fittings. That complicated things a bit on the install and since I'm pleased with the result, I'll be re-installing it the "right" way this spring.

Looks like you've got it covered, but I think there's a '78 wagon waiting in the holding area at Pull a Part. Which wheel? Front or rear, just in case they are different.

Least expensive source is the wrecking yard. Since it's an '83 it should be a non-hydraulic lifter head. Good luck with it.

No, I didn't; I'm being too picky with the 5 speed flywheel. It'll be on the road this month (Nov.).

I cheated; disconnected one line at the cooler and had my wife start the car and put it in neutral; pretty obvious which is which, expecially if the line starts pumping fluid out (put a drain pan underneath it just in case). In this case the inlet/outlet tubes run vertically instead of horizontally for the engine coolent.

Just to correct my earlier post: I bought a gauge and sensor at the local B&B Auto Parts store (local to the Seattle area only I think), but it was manufactured by B&M Racing & Performance Products LLC, Chatsworth CA 91311 (www.bmracing.com). It was a model #80212. Pretty basic gauge with hardware, fittings, wire (not really enough if you want to completely wire it in with internal lighting and such. It comes with two T-fittings (5/16" and 3/8") for the two most common steel outlet lines. I paid $59.95 plus tax for it. (Sometimes it pays to never erase your old emails; I cut and pasted this from the Toyotamotorhomes site that I frequent)

I bought it from B&B Auto Parts (a local chain) and I think if was the Cyberdyne guage. And I did it just to insure that I don't overheat the RV's tranny; there's a tendency to use the Overdrive whenever possible and the downside of that is the potential to overheat the ATF in OD.

I recently did this on my Toyota RV. I couldn't find a sensor that mounted on the pan (besides, there were significant concerns about where and very low clearances). I found a sensor/guage kit for around $60 where the guage mounted in-line with the tubing which carried ATF to the front cooler in the radiator. The only trick there was deciding which line was the "hot" line going into the cooler so as not to mount it in the "cool" line returning from the radiator. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward installation. I found it useful on the RV because of the amount of weight of the motorhome on an engine/tranny originally designed for a light weight truck. I also added a cooler which was even easier to install.

Sounds like a flakey ground to me.

Connie, On the older subarus it's not uncommon to find a bad connection associated with the ignition switch. Next time you have the plastic off on the steering column, take a look at the ignition switch (opposite end of the ignition lock). There are four wires on the switch which go into a plastic sleeve and about 6 inches later end up in a plastic connector (often pink in color) which plugs into the wiring harness. Examine the plastic connector and see if a portion of it is discolored brown or black; if so, you have a bad connection there. Easiest fix is to go to a wrecking yard and get another cable/switch assembly and replace it. Oddly enough, almost any model will have the same setup; I once had one pulled from an '84 wagon and it fit (and worked) in Austion's Impreza when he was picking it up! This might help some of the odd ignition related problems, but won't necessarily fix your stereo. I think that checking some grounds might help that. Also make sure the stereo is grounded separately; sometimes the ground return is left to the antenna cable which is a poor grounding....use a separate ground wire to a known good grounding spot under the dash if you haven't got one already. Good luck.

Don't egg him on! He'll build a periscope!! :lol: Dive! Dive!

Austin, I've always thought you were smarter than that!

Your original bulbs were 45W/55W; that's about 4 and 5 amps respectively; I wouldn't think you'd need to add any fuses if you're using the existing wiring.

Thanks for the thought; I'm working on it a little at a time evenings, but will try to get the engine actually installed and running this Saturday. If you want to come by, I'm sure we could feed you breakfast. Drop me a PM and I'll send you the address as well as 'phone number.

Having just done this on my new (new to me) '84 Brat, the cost for lock cylinder and matching key came to $133.17. Spendy, but worth it in my mind. I don't believe I said anything about this fix not lasting very long. The new lock cylinder has metal innards throughout and not the plastic stops of the original which fail after 15 to 20 years of use; the new lock cylinder should last forever now. If anyone wants the address of the locksmith that did the work, it's Lockworks, 16510 Redmond Way, Redmond, WA 98052; 800-413-9085. Ask for Steve who is the Brat expert now.

Zap came by and chatted; I'm was making good progress until I snapped a bolt pulling the water pump off the replacement engine. It took me a while getting that off. Sorry, I didn't catch the post and I would have given xoomer directions. Hopefully, I can finish prepping the engine tomorrow after work and drop it in before it gets dark.

Sorry, love to do it, but I pulled the engine out of the Brat yesterday and I'm hoping to get the replacement installed today. I've got to take advantage of the fine weather we've had so far this weekend.

For what it covers, I've always felt that the Bentley manual was the best "bang for the buck." It covers all models up to '84 starting I believe with '78. It reads like a condensed version of the FSM with all the right detail and written in english rather than technical jargon.

Do they have an email address or 800#? I'm always looking for new yards to get parts from.

Did the lenses yellow, or are the bulbs dim? On the older cars, the wiring alone may cause enough of a voltage drop to cause the bulbs to be dim. If you change bulbs and they are still dim, you might consider re-wiring the lamps and running them off a relay. I've got a link somewhere in my computer for information on that; I'll try to find it.

Here's the run order: PGT and Open in the afternoon. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm

Geoff, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope she's okay.