edrach

Stick with the maual tranny; the extra control and increased gas mileage is worth it.

I would not go more than $1000 on the car with lots of rust. Mechanical items can be replaced easily; rust just can't be stopped and is not easily (that means cheaply) repaired. I would opt for the rust free car any time. Also, $7400 is way out of line for a '97 Outback. I paid $3995 for a '97 Impreza wagon (essentially the same as the Outback except for the two tone paint job) with 113K miles on it this past May here in western Washington. And I would have passed on it if it had any rust at all. Check craigslist or autotrader to see what's available in your price range. Take your time and keep looking; I'm sure you can find a clean, rust free, Outback in a reasonable price range ($5000 for an early model; $7500 for something that is "cherry" condition and low miles).

Karin, both items are cheap at Pull a Part; Alternator is $12.50 plus small core charge and tax; battery is $14.50 plus core charge and tax. I have three batteries here from PAP which I buy because they are cheap and I have an easy way to test them and if they don't test out, I just take them back for a full refund (receipt and marking needed and within 30 days). Alternators I pick up when I find a good one; I install it on my car to make sure it works and the working one I took off my car goes onto my "spare parts" shelf in case the other one fails after the 30 day grace period. Last alternator I bought is still in my car after 2 years of use. As to the stereo discharging your battery, pick up a "trickle charger" from Harbor Freight (or Radio Shack) and put your battery on a small charge when you're not going to use the car for a week or more; this will prevent the dead battery syndrome that you've already experienced.

All the autoparts stores in this area offer free testing of the battery and alternator. Of course, the object is to sell you a new battery or alternator. If you have a digital voltmeter, an easy test that works 95% of the time is to measure the voltage across the battery at idle...it should be around 12.5 to 13 volts. As you increase the engine rpm it should climb to around 14 to 14.5 volts at 2000 rpm. Lower voltages than that usually indicates a bad alternator. A good battery will normally charge up to the alternator output; if the battery voltage drops significantly below 12.5 volts at idle, it usually means it's time for a new battery. This test isn't 100% because it doesn't test the battery under full load conditions but is a pretty good indicator of how well the battery/alternator combination work. If that combination seems okay and the voltage guage in the dash is still significantly low, I'd think about looking for a bad ground.

You're in luck; new EA81 cars showed up in PAP this week....all the interior pieces you might want.

Seafoam is available at our local NAPA stores.

I have a wiring harness (under dash section) for an '85 GL Hatch (EA81). Probably the same; if someone can verify that, it's for sale. Only problem with it is that someone butchered up the wires for the original radio; otherwise it looks okay.

I left the O2 sensor hanging; there's nothing on the weber that will respond to it, but I didn't want to plug the hole by removing it. I just tied up the wire from it so it didn't get ripped up in something.

Apparently Robbin and Maynard withdrew their bid. Dropped the amount from $5000 back to $2350!

I replaced the single barrel carter-weber on my son's '82 brat recently with a 32/36 weber. Highway gas mileage went from 20-21 to 27-28 with that change. I'd think the emissions went down from previous since more gas was going into making the car move more efficiently; I did pass WA state emissions after making the switch also; I don't know how you would fare in CT.

I can't believe I didn't put this in the write up that's in the USRM. Anyway, go to Sears; Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct); that's the right size drift punch for removing the roll pin.

I have to agree; I've had good luck with junk yard axles. If the boots are in good shape, the axles are generally also in good shape and last long enough to justify the $25 cost of them; also the Pull a Part yards here will warrantee the part for 30 days....long enough to pull it, install it, and see if it's working okay. Also, pulling one at the local PAP (where the car is up on a 3 point support) is also good practice for removing an axle and if you break something inadvertantly it's not a major crisis.

You're right about that; I could use a service crew.

Replacing an axle is not too difficult. First one will require a couple of hours of your time. Look for write-up in USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=77

Axle costs are $55 plus shipping plus refundable core from www.cvaxles.com; although since you're in Colorado, I'd suggest you email ShawnW at ccrinc....probably the best deal for you on axles there.

I bet I won't loose as much oil either.

Check the ORG website for the latest information. Event will be held at Portland Int'l Raceway again. Details at http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm

I put about 75 miles on the car today; about 50 of that interstate miles and it ran trouble free and without any CEL codes. No ugly smoke coming out the back at any time.

It's an oil/gasoline additive with supposed "magic" powers. Try a search on Seafoam within the USMB; there've been lots of threads about it.

Car was serviced locally by the same shop I use and the stolen car was a customer's of theirs. Shop owner confirmed to me that the two cars (video and ebay) were the same.

Did you see the high bidder? robbinandmaynard; I don't know for sure, but Robbin and Maynard are a couple of morning radio show jockeys here in Seattle. I wonder if they're involved in this for the publicity of it.

Took the car to work today and after a few puffs after startup car ran just fine. I'll give it a run on the interstate later today. Looks like its root cause is the clogged air filter. Time will tell and I'll be using some seafoam or marvel mystery oil with the next oil change.

I'm partial to the Firestone shop in Kirkland (just off 124th next to the Jack in the Box). Dan is the manager and I have four cars currently with "lifetime" alignment contracts. First one is pricey at $140, but the rest are free as long as I own the car. Since I usually run 150K or more, I'll get 10 to 15 alignments on each contract. I graciously decline his offer for tires and service since I'm not partial to their tires and I do most of my own work; when I don't I usually take it to Smart Service. Dan understands my preferences and doesn't push it other than to offer it.

Pulled the two day old PCV and it was stuck closed with some kind of gunk so I put the old one back for the time being. But while I was doing that, I noticed all the hoses from the crankcase area and valve covers all meeting and feeding into the throttle body air intake. I thought about the air cleaner and pulled the housing. Air cleaner was pretty well clogged; I have a K&N and haven't looked at it in way too long a time period. I cleaned the filter, oiled it and re-installed it. Most of the smoke is gone and all gone when the engine is warm. Smokes a little when I start it up cold, but I'm thinking of adding some Seafoam to help clean out the plumbing.

Anyone wishing to make an adapter plate for the EA81, I could lend out my spare; Jason H. (forgot his boardname) made some nice adapters for me awhile back. Bow wow Auto Parts carries a line of adapters and linkage kits for way less than weber charges. Call the Lynnwood Bow Wow store and ask for Chris...he knows us and has always given me a discount when I shop there. I can dig up the 'phone number if necessary.