edrach

Yea, he did the brake work on it yesterday; I had Smart Service replace the rotors and pads after the emissions people smoked the brakes. I could have done that myself but since the emissions folks sent me a check for the repairs I had Smart Service do the work.

Finally managed to get the codes off my '91 Legacy. Car has 155K miles on it and runs well (my daily driver). Since I'm more used to the '80's cars, these codes mystify me a bit. The CEL just started flashing occasionally about a month ago. Last weekend, the timing belt and water pump were replaced but that shouldn't have anything to do with the codes I got since I'm still getting them (just not as many as there might have been since I disconnected the battery during the timing belt/pump work). Here are the codes: 35 CPC 24 Idle control 23 MAF 21 Coolent Temp sensor 11 Crankshaft speed The CPC seems to be the most prevalent and they might all be related to one common cause (he said hopefully). I think the CPC code has something to do with the charcoal cannister (can they actually go bad?). The idle thing might be correct since the idle is a bit slow (600) and uneven. Also, my gas mileage is down to around 23-24 on the highway compared to when I got the car two years ago. (Just looking for someone to point me in the right direction before I start reading in the Factory Manual). Thanks.

Sounds like a badly stuck lifter; definitely will need head gaskets; so far it doesn't sound like anything bad got to the lower end. I'll likely pull the engine this weekend if I can. I have another engine to drop in for the interim.

No I don't; this is a new one for me and I'm keeping it for my retirement fund. My old Brat is my first one and I still own it and plan on keeping it. The "hulk" brat was a thought of restoring it and I did not keep it long; it went to someone more talented than I and willing to do the extensive bodywork to get it roadworthy. The gold Brat belongs to my eldest son and has been in the family for 10 years now. So three out of four are still with the family and likely will remain for a while. Yes, it is very pretty.

My neighbor's name is Doug Moritz (not a Subaru freak, but definitely into cars). Drop me a 'phone number by PM and I'll give it to him and have him call you if you like. You can negotiate cost and such with him; but that should be easy compared to Spokane to Bothell. ---ed---

A set of shots I took for the insurance company to begin to establish a value for the Brat. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=765

http://www.justinliew.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=92&pos=3

I could ask my neighbor who towed my Brat back from Spokane if he would do a short tow locally. He's not too expensive, but time would be a question. Where is it now and where do you want it to go? I'll let you know.

The tip off should have been when your headlights got real bright just before they burned out! 28V is unbelievably high.

You should be okay; if the pressure had gone up that high it would have probably split a hose or something. I once had a stuck cap on a Ford wagon and it blew the side out of the radiator when the cap didn't release.

I would agree with most of what you say except don't change to synthetic on a new engine until 10K to 20K miles. Give the rings a better chance to seat with the dino oil; starting with synthetic might never allow the rings to seat properly.

Running PGT instead of Open in a production car....cool.

Matt, you were 5th in PGT...good going. Results at http://www.pregrid.com/ppd_rx.htm

Paul is a standout person in all respects. I hope his rallycross school last weekend went well. Unfortunately, I had a Legacy with a bum waterpump to replace and a Brat to pick up this weekend. Both of those went well (thanks Brian P., Brian G., Doug, and Dave). Did anyone go to the rallycross this weekend? How was it?

I hope you were able to run the event yesterday at Hillsboro. Paul Eklund normally lays out courses more to your (an my) liking. I couldn't be there and wish I had, but I had more important things on my agenda this weekend. As to the last rallycross event, ORG still has a Nov. 6th date on the books but don't know if that will come off or not.

Check out the Nokian website. For all the hype and such, the Hakkipollitta snow tires are still the best studless snows. And they are aggressive enough to work well in the mud.

The Brat is home. Long day...up at 5am, on the road at 6. Side trip to bratsrus1 to deliver the "hulk" Brat in Yakima and then off to Spokane and pick up the Brat at the home of palouse rider. Finally made it home by 8pm. Thinking of what needs to be done to get the car back on the road. Thanks to my neighbor for driving me out and back with his tow rig. Only $210 total for gas round trip!

Lynnwood has a Turbo sedan; turbo's gone but the engine still seems to be there. It's a dark blue one. I forgot what year.

I'm with Nipper and would put my money on the ignitor module. Unfortunately, it's a pretty pricey item (anywhere from $100 to $250 depending on where you buy it. If it's the hitachi distributor, the're pretty easy to remove and most parts stores will test it for you for free; considering how intermittant this one is have it tested multiple times if it doesn't fail the first time. Also, make sure the put the ground lead on it securely to test since that will give you a false fail reading. Also, be prepared to pay the price for a new one if it fails. I've found the cheapest ones at the local pull a part; I pull them and have them tested and only keep the good ones. I don't have any of the ND modules.

I'm with Zap on his comments. Constructive criticism will always get you further toward your goals. Actually this course was more wide open than most. The early slalom was extremely wide open and the circle turn could be done quickly if you kept the car inside and didn't drift out into the soft stuff where everyone seemed to go. The last portion was so tight primarily because the field is a bit small for good wide-open rallycross; the zig-zags at the end allowed them to squeeze in some extra time at the end so the course didn't appear as short as it really was. Smaller cars will always have an advantage on a tight course (makes up for their lack of power), because the course needs to be open enough for a larger SUV to be able to get around it. I know ORG is desparately looking for other suitable fields to run. Corvalis might even have a possible site. If you find a field large enough to host an event, you might even get a course close to home as well as one that can be designed with a more wide open layout.

Might have been Samo; I think his new wagon is red.

I believe it's a United Rental on 132nd near Totem Lake just north of 124th. There's also a Sun Belt rental in Redmond and in Woodinville. Good luck.

It would have been more correct for me to post this URL: http://www.oregonrally.com/html/rallycross.cfm

Go to the posted URL, click on Rallycross and then page down to the bottom of the menu and you'll see four results filenames for the Sept. 8th rallycross. So far they aren't posting results under a "event results" link.

I can't argue with success. I'm glad you're up and running. If you do a search of "glowing idiot lights" you'll find a number of threads that point to a faulty alternator. Right now, I wouldn't worry about it unless the lights started glowing again.