edrach

The Brat is home. Long day...up at 5am, on the road at 6. Side trip to bratsrus1 to deliver the "hulk" Brat in Yakima and then off to Spokane and pick up the Brat at the home of palouse rider. Finally made it home by 8pm. Thinking of what needs to be done to get the car back on the road. Thanks to my neighbor for driving me out and back with his tow rig. Only $210 total for gas round trip!

Lynnwood has a Turbo sedan; turbo's gone but the engine still seems to be there. It's a dark blue one. I forgot what year.

I'm with Nipper and would put my money on the ignitor module. Unfortunately, it's a pretty pricey item (anywhere from $100 to $250 depending on where you buy it. If it's the hitachi distributor, the're pretty easy to remove and most parts stores will test it for you for free; considering how intermittant this one is have it tested multiple times if it doesn't fail the first time. Also, make sure the put the ground lead on it securely to test since that will give you a false fail reading. Also, be prepared to pay the price for a new one if it fails. I've found the cheapest ones at the local pull a part; I pull them and have them tested and only keep the good ones. I don't have any of the ND modules.

I'm with Zap on his comments. Constructive criticism will always get you further toward your goals. Actually this course was more wide open than most. The early slalom was extremely wide open and the circle turn could be done quickly if you kept the car inside and didn't drift out into the soft stuff where everyone seemed to go. The last portion was so tight primarily because the field is a bit small for good wide-open rallycross; the zig-zags at the end allowed them to squeeze in some extra time at the end so the course didn't appear as short as it really was. Smaller cars will always have an advantage on a tight course (makes up for their lack of power), because the course needs to be open enough for a larger SUV to be able to get around it. I know ORG is desparately looking for other suitable fields to run. Corvalis might even have a possible site. If you find a field large enough to host an event, you might even get a course close to home as well as one that can be designed with a more wide open layout.

Might have been Samo; I think his new wagon is red.

I believe it's a United Rental on 132nd near Totem Lake just north of 124th. There's also a Sun Belt rental in Redmond and in Woodinville. Good luck.

It would have been more correct for me to post this URL: http://www.oregonrally.com/html/rallycross.cfm

Go to the posted URL, click on Rallycross and then page down to the bottom of the menu and you'll see four results filenames for the Sept. 8th rallycross. So far they aren't posting results under a "event results" link.

I can't argue with success. I'm glad you're up and running. If you do a search of "glowing idiot lights" you'll find a number of threads that point to a faulty alternator. Right now, I wouldn't worry about it unless the lights started glowing again.

Now what will you do if you still get tell tale lights when you get the battery replaced? Glowing idiot lights are usually the sign of a faulty alternator. Have the system checked by an honest shop before you buy a battery or alternator or both. Most autoparts stores will check your charging system and battery for free. Of course they all want to sell you something, so I'd consider having it done by two or three places and going with the place that appears the most honest. If the idiot lights are glowing, it is almost always the alternator that's at fault. Next, the only purpose for your battery is to start the car. Once the car is started, everything runs off the alternator. If the alternator is not charging, the battery carries the load until everything electrical stops. So, frankly, I don't believe your battery is at fault.

Save yourself a lot of grief and rewire the lights using relays and run the 12V for the lamps directly off a fused line to the battery and fresh ground returns. Then use the socket of the existing wiring to turn the relays on and off. If I can find it, I'll post the link to a wiring diagram (it was posted here at one time; might even have been the ezboard it was so long ago). Good luck with it.

Oregon Rally Group revised website seems to be up and running. http://www.oregonrally.com/ Results for the 9/18 rallycross can be found under Sept. 8 results. I can't say whether I like it yet; but if they can get updated info into the site in a timely manner more often, I'll like it.

Wayne didn't show up to take pics until the afternoon run. It's too bad that he didn't get Open class because they are usually pretty spectacular.

John, you were first in Open; Paul was 4th, about 4 seconds behind you for the three runs. Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the pdf files with the results. Sorry, I forgot to list you in my preliminary post. ---ed---

Still not up.

Did you expect anything else!

My apologies to the sucker king; I should have known it's Flappy's. I still have all those "practice" shirts you used to pack up the rear diff I bought from you a while back. Cleaned up they make great shirts to work on cars with. Regardless, I would still buy a Brat t-shirt if you're willing to make them.

Maybe we should have a group buy from Slappy's; I'd rather buy one (or two) from him than some guy on ebay trying to push a "23 year old shirt."

These are nice articles; they should go into the USRM!

By the way if you do need to replace the radiator, go down to Spalding Auto Wreckers. I've bought three NEW radiators from them for a variety of cars for under $100 including my Brat. Best price I've found anywhere.

Results were posted there because the ORG website is in "transition." It's been in transition for over a week! They are pdf files and if someone is smart enough to tell me how to download them rather than print them, maybe I can post them here (there must be an easier way). It looks like there might be an easier way. I copied all 4 result files to My Documents. Now someone just needs to guide me along to uploading them to the USMB. I can certainly send them to someone and attach them to my email and smarter persons than I could load them to the USMB. Let me know.

Fine event held at Porland Int'l Raceway. Preliminary results have XSNRG with 1st PGT, eurowrx was 1st in Open, 84Soob 1st in Truck/SUV (welcome back Brian), qman's best (Jaymie) was 4th in Truck/SUV, and myself 2nd in Truck/SUV. Also, results can be found at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/org-l/files/ Pics can be found at http://www.pdxsports.com/go.asp?f=200509_Rallyx1

I locked myself out of my '86 GL wagon (same as your Loyale) and called AAA to get me in. After the guy tried for 1-1/2 hours to open the driver's side door, he finally called into the office and they told him to use his "slim-jim" on the REAR door since it's almost impossible to jimmy the lock on the front doors. He had it open 5 minutes later. I hope this helps. Good luck.

There are three cars with suitable fenders at the Lynnwood pull a part yard. Metallic blue hatch, dark blue hatch and gold wagon. Not sure of the condition but one of them should be okay for you.

An EJ22 is beyond my skill and desires; besides I couldn't handle that motor at the rallycrosses. But you're right.