edrach

I stand corrected. Hondasucks posted this: yeah HC is unburned fuel. High HC + High CO would indicate a rich mixture, high HC w/ normal or low CO would indicate a lean mixture. High 02 would confirm this. You could have a plug that's not quite firing at low RPM, or something to that effect that's causing it to misfire at idle, maybe not enough to detect but enough for it to not pass smog. We just covered emissions in class, our AllData software doesn't even HAVE the data for California, it says that since it changes so often it's best to call CARB lol See, it's not too late for an old dog to learn new things.

Hooray; glad to hear it's up and running again.

Do you have one or two pins coming out of the temp sensor? If only one pin, the circuit is depending on a proper ground return and that might be missing. Same thing happens on the temp switch to the fan if there's only one pin; the little grounding wire for the radiator is gone and the fan doesn't work because it too needs a ground to work properly.

I think I still have the mapquest directions.

I think SuBrat84 has the right idea about the timing. It's not unusual in our older subes for the vacuum advance unit to fail. Aside from causing a vacuum leak that's not easily detected, it often causes the timing to be advanced (by a mechanic who's tuning by ear) at idle so the car will run better at cruise (didn't you say it failed at idle but was okay at cruise?). Check the vacuum advance to see if it's working; use a timing light to set your advance to 8 degrees BTDC with the vacuum line to the distributor disconnected and blocked; then re-connect the vac line and see that the timing advances about another 20 degrees as you rev the engine to about 2000 rpm.

Rob, thanks; I'll pick up the batteries so Corky doesn't have to deal with them. I'll bring the pallets down to your place as I can over the next few weeks. ---ed---

Brownish is good. Did you fail HC's at idle or cruise?

Get a new mechanic; lean does not equate to high HC's. Also, if one cylinder is mis-firing all that unburned fuel goes out the exhaust as unburned HC's. Interesting that squeezing off the PCV gets the HC's lower.

Rob, if you're bringing the trailer, I have 5 pallets for you. I can only get 3 in the Brat. Let me know your time frame. I'm available after 2pm on Saturday; or if the trailer is definite, I'll arrange with Corky to bring down the pallets sooner. Also, bring the battery cores; I can still use them.

No, turbo axles have more splines in the DOJ.

Cleaning it might be difficult; I just look for one at the wrecking yards that has less miles/years than mine and just replace the old one. I really don't know if it helps any.

I'll try to be more careful....but it IS an old thread started early this year.

Yes especially if it's dirty or oil soaked.

Yes, you will have to take it out.

Thanks, but this was an old thread that cameltoe dredged up from somewhere. The recent emissions test was for my new Brat and altho I passed was not quite as happy.

You are correct they are primary and secondary air bleed jets.

I believe the exemption from emissions testing is 25 years from the date of manufacture; my next test is due in 2006 and after that 2008; so it'll be exempt after that. I'm not sure of that; might be 20 or 22 years. I'll check into it again when I need to.

Bow Wow in Lynnwood, WA sells the EA81 adapter for $30 plus tax. Ask for Chris and tell him you got the number on the USMB. 425-771-6411 or toll free 888-226-9969. Shipping shouldn't cost too much since they are light. He also sells a linkage adapter (better than the hitachi one) for under $10 (worth every penny).

Sorry, but the linkage from the hitachi only opens the primary throttle; the connecting link (which you'll need) opens the secondary as the primary goes past the half way point. Sorry, no help on the jets but it won't be too bad since the 2002 is a 2L engine and is pretty close. Check the jet sizes for Subaru (find it in the info in the USRM I think) and compare to what you're getting.

I will be sending a complaint to the state on this; also, I will expect them to pay for a brake inspection by Smart Service and whatever parts might be needed. The annoying thing here is that I can do this all myself but they wouldn't pay for the parts if needed unless I take it to a shop. I'll still check it out myself before I decide what to do.

It WAS the Lynnwood one; watch out for Sharon the operator that did this. I've finally realized why she had the handbrake on; i didn't see her put the wheel chock under the rear wheel and she probably pulled up the handbrake thinking the brakes were on the back wheels since it was FWD. Trust me the Supervisor will remember and you can insist on talking to him to insure they do it right. Listen for the rpm and make sure they shift into second and watch the tach display on their monitor. Good luck.

WA state does it every other year also; but it's required again if you purchase a new vehicle and the last emissions test done is more than a year old.

Probably not, since that round thing next to the hose is a temp controlled flapper that diverts heated air into the air filter housing in the winter when it's cold; during the summer it's normally closed anyway and you're pulling in unheated air.

WA state used to have it's own testing people and shops. Then, last year, they sub-contracted it out to some company. First thing they did was close a few stations to save money resulting in longer lines and less convenient locations. Also, it's obvious that the people working there are the smartest around. I should have know this was a problem when the guy asked me if the car was rear wheel drive.

My new Brat went to emissions today. The good news is that it passed, the bad news is that some WA state testers don't have a clue as to what they are doing. One of the things I hate about the new test company is that they insist on driving your car and having you sit off to the side. So anyway I take my seat and she gets in and starts off and stalls the car; I can live with that and I didn't think much of it since that could happen to anyone. She's having a heck of a time with keeping the speed at 25; so I'm watching the display on the monitor (too far away, but I can tell that she's holding the car at 19 or 20 mph). Finally she gets it to settle down at 25 after a short jump to 30. I'm watching the monitor and I see the tach display just to the left of the Speedo display and it's at full scale. Then I realize from the sound of the engine that she's STILL IN 1ST GEAR!! At this point I get up and I see the smoke COMING OUT OF THE FRONT WHEELS! SHE'S STILL GOT THE HANDBRAKE ON!!! Now I also understand why the car stalled. I get her to stop the test and shut down the engine and I call a supervisor over and tell him what's going on. The printout comes out of the machine and he tells me it passed. I'm glad but "what about the fact she's revved the tar out of the engine trying to run it in first gear?" "Oh, that display isn't accurate; doesn't mean a thing." I can tell there's no point in arguing with the man but I know what I saw, what I heard, and smelled from the brakepads. I take the paperwork into the office to talk to a supervisor, and it turns out it's the same guy as I talked to earlier. I tell him I'm letting the brakes cool down because they are definitely faded. I get him to initial the test that it was run with the handbrake on, but he refuses to acknowledge it was done in first gear. Just what I needed; now I need to check the pads, rotors, and heavens knows what over-revving the engine might have done.