edrach

Firstly, he's not my buddy. But that being said, I've run enough cars by him to know him on a first name basis and he knows most of the cars I bring by are Subarus. As mentioned before he is a certified emissions specialist and works out of a van parked right next to the emissions testing place on 6th Ave. South in the industrial area just south of Spokane Street. His engine analyzer is in his van and as northwet said, he tweaks, probes, adjusts, looks for vacuum leaks, etc. until he finds the cause. Sometimes he locates the faulty component, tells you what it is, what it will cost and you can install it and bring the car back. He doesn't charge until he actually gets a good reading and is sure that you can go right next store and pass. Sometimes he even will take the car through for you if it requires proper "techniques" to pass. Trust me, I haven't spent more than $39.95 plus tax (and parts if needed) in the last five years. I got tired of the so called experts that were dinging me $150 and up and if it didn't pass, that was enough money to get a "waiver." Occasionally, he will write up enough information for you to get a "waiver." I don't know what he charges you then since I've never had that problem.

There is no secret recipe; at least no single recipe. Different failures require different solutions. And it's almost impossible to solve this problem without an emissions analyzer. The guy I suggested is a certified emissions specialist, with the proper equipment, and at least 20 years of experience dealing with problem cars. I wasn't being a teaser, just offering a working solution if you have another reason for justifying a trip to Seattle.

Emissions is a black art; if you're making a trip to Seattle in the near future, I can suggest a guy that will guarantee you pass or he doesn't charge for his services. His cost is $39.95 plus tax and he's gotten at least a dozen cars to pass for me over the years. Sorry, that's the best I can do for you.

Which model do you have? That would help.

No, if you're bringing the XT6, I'll save you the trouble. I'll be able to bring the pallets to your place in the next two weeks, maybe sooner.

You're right it's not cool. However, if you want to drain the bottem half just disconnect the lower hose. Or if you really want to clean it, take the radiator out completely....only takes about ten minutes to remove the radiator. Northwet is correct in his response to the reading on the gauge. My test is to take it on the highway and run the car up to the speed limit and look for a hill at that speed. Temp gauge should not climb above that same reading no matter what the load.

Rob, if you're coming up to inspect the tarp, let me know. I have some pallets for you and could bring them to Corky's.

Up to $31 with 28 bids! Just goes to prove there is more than one fool in the world.

EA82 is wider than EA81 and won't fit between the frame rails unless that's what you mean by "slightly customized." Currently there are two EA81 engines at the Lynnwood PAP that might be worth pulling for you.

Lets not confuse the issue with new variables like rear end ratios, gear ratios in 4th and 5th, and load or no load, etc. We're talking the same car (whatever it is) at a steady cruising speed of 55 mph on a level stretch of road. Whether you are in 4th or 5th gear, the same amount of work needs to be done to push the car through the air and overcome frictional aspects. That being said, the same amount of energy will be required to do that work. Now the question becomes, is the engine more efficient in 4th or 5th gear and can the car squeeze more energy out of the gasoline/air mixture. The simple way to tell that is to look at the torque developed by the engine at a given rpm. Most cars have the torque peak at around 3000 rpm; above that the torque drops off and the horsepower continues to increase. Forget horsepower, think torque. An engine is most efficient at the torque peak; so the answer to the 4th or 5th gear question is "what's the engine rpm of the car at 55 mph?" The engine rpm at 55 mph closest to the torque peak rpm will prove to be the more efficient and squeeze the greater amount of energy out of the fuel mixture and will determine whether 4th or 5th gear will use the lesser amount of fuel.

Craftsman #42885 WF is the 3/16" punch; works great.

His was the only laptop I saw at WCSS7 and he's not online much lately.

I have done two conversions on the EA81. The first on my Brat with a DGAV and the second on my son's Brat with the DFV. Both work just fine. I actually like the DFV conversion better since part of the DGAV is very close to the distributor ignition wires (on the DFV, that part is on the other side and doesn't interfere); also, the DFV seems to hook up with the existing throttle cable better. Neither of our Brats have power steering so I couldn't tell you how they compare in that regard.

I'd like to take credit for being a genius, but I've seen that blackened connector on at least 5 different cars in the last 6 years (since I've owned Subarus). It's just a matter of their engineers trying to pass too much current through a connector and ultimately they fail in exactly that way on the exact same connection. Krankitup, I'm glad your car is back on the road.

Try replacing the radiator cap; not only does it open to allow coolent out of the rad into the overflow tank, but it also needs to open to suck coolent back into the radiator when the engine cools down. There are actually two valves in your cap to allow back and forth flow depending on temperature.

I know I'll get flack for this, but moving a car down the road at 55mph requires energy; the same speed requires the same amount of energy; so it doesn't matter which gear you use since you have to expend the same amount of energy.

No lie....lots of food and friends and conversation. I did help deplete the tarp offerings someone altho my better half was keeping me honest. I'm looking forward to the next one.

Water pump is one of the items I prefer to go OEM with. Try www.1stsubaruparts.com. This is a dealer in Auburn, WA and they have the best parts department and prices I've found for OEM parts. If the website is too much of a pain (it is for me) call their 800 # and ask for Jason or Parts.

One place you might look is the first connector off the ignition switch. If you remove the plastic cowling above and below the ignition switch you'll see the ignition switch and the cable as it runs along the steering column. About 6 inches along there will be a plastic connector, either pink in color or white. Current for the starting the car runs through that connector and with age, the connections can go bad and the bad connection can make starting intermittant. Examine the plastic connector carefully, if the connection is bad it will get hot and the plastic will turn brown or black from the heat (I've even seen one actually melt). The fix is easy, find a newer ignition switch and cable at a wrecking yard or hardwire a splice around the bad connection using the correct guage wire or larger (I think it's AWG12 but it might be AWG10). You've already replaced the starter and solenoid so I think you'll find the problem there. There's also a possibilty the the switch itself is intermittant; replacing the entire cable and switch with one from a wreck should solve that problem also. I have seen this on three of the older EA81s that have passed through our family and it's a pretty common problem from what I can tell. Good luck.

Easier said than done.

Thanks.

No this is not Eric's Brat. This is the '84 that showed up on craigslist here in seattle recently; someone had posted the listing on the USMB and I went to look at it last Monday. I was a little miffed since the guy didn't take my money (I was willing to pay his asking price); he's fishing for a better offer. I'm on the fence now waiting to see if this guy gets a better offer or not and whether I'll still want Eric's Brat regardless. I'm still vacillating. Check out the post on this Brat: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40984&highlight=FS%3A+%2784+Brat

I hate to ask, but I will anyway; I'm considering buying this Brat and would really like a history and can't justify the cost of a month's service and the exorbitant rate for one. Please send to me at edrach@spamcop.net. Thanks in advance. JF2AT53B9EE500661

The model and size designation are stamped into the side of the base of the carb; e.g. DGAV 32/36. However, the DFV is a mirror image of the DGAV and that's the best way to tell the difference. If standing in front of the car and looking at the carb you'll see the choke module (either electric or water choke) at the very front. If the throttle plate is on your left of the carb, it's a DGAV; if the throttle plate is on the right of the carb, it's a DFV version. Did you say the webers are common in your area or was that someone else's post? If they are that common, can you consider pulling them and shipping them to the USA? It seems that new webers are becoming scarce here for some reason.

Nice picture Matt. Sounds like a good day.