edrach

I started to replace the carter-weber on my son's brat with a real weber today. I had picked up a manifold months ago to use for that. I pulled the old manifold off and prepared the replacement and it's about 1-1/2" shorter than the original! Anyone want a 1400 manifold? Free if you pick it up or I can deliver in Portland next weekend. A quick trip to PAP and we'll have the replacement on shortly.

No, my s/n on the Imp is 22222. Try doing your search under "interference" or "non-interference." I got lots of stuff to look at yesterday but didn't find what I wanted. I did send a note off to Smart Service and I'll see what they tell me; I'd trust them before any dealer in the country. Also, there's more digits (letters?) before the "BB" and "CC" on both my engines but I can't tell what it is. I re-checked the s/n on my '91 Legacy and it's 76 CC 22112. I'll recheck the Imp again when my wife comes home. And yes, I suspect I'll be re-doing the timing belt soon.

I've never changed the master cylinder on any swap.

Frankly I don't see much of a braking effectiveness difference other than no tendency to lock up the rears. As to the brake lines, I just used the original lines from the donor car and carefully bent the excess line out of the way without kinking it.

I'm with Ed on the previous post. I've done over a half dozen conversions and was never concerned with the proportioning issue and have never noticed a difference to be concerned with. That being said, the primary reason I convert over is the ease and symplicity of changing pads compared to changing brake shoes; also, the fact that you never have to readjust the rear brakes or any of the problems associated with rear drum brakes. Other than occasionally replacing the rear pads, I've never had a problem with any rear disk conversion I've done.

I took a photo of my '97 Impreza as well as my '91 Legacy and I can't really tell any difference from where the sparkplugs protrude. Photos can be seen at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=735 in my photo gallery. When I get my son over here, I'll photograph his '96 EJ22 for comparison. I did look at the serial numbers on both engines and I'm beginning to draw the conclusion that I have an interference engine. Prior to the s/n is a "CC" on our legacy engine; prior to the s/n on our Impreza is a "BB". Oddly enough our Impreza engine's s/n is 22222! Anyone else want to play s/n poker?:cool:

I'm with northwet, check the castle nut to see if things had loosened up there. Re-torque it to 145 ft-lbs if it has. Odd, I've always found that the CVJ will click or clunk under hard lock turns and the DOJ will cause excessive vibration in the car under certain conditions and not click or clunk. If you've got a torn boot at either location, I'd replace the axle and be done with it. Without the torn boot, the noise you describe could be a number of things. A bad wheel bearing usually "growls" and the sound will go away when you make turns in one direction or the other (and you "unload" the bearing). I recently found that an occasional clunk when turning with my brat was caused by the clamping bolt that secures the strut within the wheel hub casting had come loose. Too much play in the steering wheel is not usually a sign of a bad wheel bearing in our Subarus. Bad inner or outer ball joints in the steering rack would cause that.

There were two left on the ground this morning; leftovers from the XT6 that has since gone to the crusher. Do you need me to pick them up for you or are you going up there? If so, call me and I'll try to describe where they are. --ed--

The fourth rallycross of the ORG RallyX series will be held August 14th at the Hillsboro Fairplex. Details below: Date : 14 August 2005 Category : RallyCross Event details: Morning Session: G2, G5, Production and Truck/SUV classes. Tech Inspection/Registration: 8:00-9:00. Driver’s Meeting: 09:15. First Car out: 09:30. Afternoon Session: Production GT and Open classes. Tech Inspection/Registration: 12:30-1:00. Driver’s Meeting: 1:45. First Car out: 2 PM Cost: $25 for SCCA Members, $30 for non-SCCA members. To be held at the Washington County Fairgrounds (across from the Hillsboro Airport.) Email: rallycross@oregonrally.com

I wish I had known you wanted seats; I pulled carpeting out of a blue interior (wagon) which was very clean and left the nice seats behind since I didn't need them (just before WCSS7). Sorry that car went to the crusher shortly thereafter I think. I'll look for it again if I'm a row off.

I just searched for that thread and I can't find it now. However, there are a TON of posts when you search "interference" or "non-interference." So that begs the question.....IS THERE ANY WAY TO VISUALLY TELL WITHOUT TAKING APART ANYTHING ON THE ENGINE WHETHER THE 2.2L IS INTERFERENCE?

And that identifier came from my question the last time someone posted a thread about the interference version of the 2.2L; I'll try to find the post if I can.

Corky and I pulled the intake manifold today so that's gone. And whoever moved the alloy wheels to other locations around the yard can forget about going back to pick them up....I got all four of them (thanks Corky).

My understanding (taken a previous post on this question) is that the non-interference engine has the sparkplug coming out of the cylinder at a 45 degree upward angle; the interference engine has the 'plugs coming out of the top of the cylinder head horizontally to the ground (through the valve cover). I've never seen the later version 2.2 so I'm going by what I've read here on the Board. I would imagine the engine serial number would tell you the same information but that would be buried somewhere in Subaru's database. Someone please correct me if you have better information. With 113K on the car now, it would be smart to do the belt now if it is indeed an interference head.

It's important in that you can wait until the timing belt breaks with a non-interference head since there is little likelihood that you will damage the engine. With an interference engine breaking the timing belt will likely cost you a valve job and possibly a few pistons. The difference in cost between a major engine overhaul as opposed to what is essentially routine service. I wanted to know which since I bought my car used and I have no idea when the timing belt was last replaced. Knowing that it's non-interference means I can wait awhile before doing the belts....even wait until a belt lets go if I should choose to do so. Lastly, the rational for going to an interference head was to squeeze a few more horsepower out of the engine. I prefer reliability as opposed to more power.

Turbone's Free Excercise Clinic! Open weekends.

Speaking of XT6 wheels, there are still two XT6 alloys on the ground at Lynnwood PAP....the XT6 has long since gone to the crusher but the wheels haven't disappeared yet.

That's a four lug 13" wheel. That the back of my previous garage in the background too. Yes it does look like an XT6 wheel except the hubcover is different.

Here's another wrinkle. I bought a '97 Impreza for my wife about 3 months ago and it had 110K on the odometer (carfax info seems to indicate that mileage is legitimate) so I'm pretty sure the engine is original. It is definitely a non-interference engine. VIN plate indicates that the manufacture date is 12/96. Lucky me since I did not want an interference engine in our garage.

I see the BMB wheel made it into your new listing....cool. I have three of these BMB 14" alloy wheels; I'm looking for a fourth and, if lucky, a fifth. If anyone has a line on one, or more, please PM me. Or if someone wants to buy my three, I'd consider selling them.

Stephen, glad you made it back home without incident. Best of luck with the Hornet; it looks like you've got it under control.

It's likely a total; I was rear ended in my Legacy last January and the repair bill came to $1260; you have that as well as front end damage. Also, have your neck checked out....I'm still going to the chiropractor twice a week after 8 months! Good luck.

Rob, I picked up two more pallets yesterday. I'll try to bring them over this weekend if I can.

Do a search for Cameron's information on the weber; he's in Australia and has probably the most expertise on webers for the earlier EA81 and EA82 engines. I wish I could remember the link but I can't think of it; if it comes to me I'll post it.

Sadly, you can't check the level in a "maintenance free" battery. That's why I never buy them.