edrach

Glad you got it going. What part do you really need? I might be able to pick it up at the Lynnwood PAP; or I might have the part you need in my "stash." Let me know.

What, or who, are you expecting to catch?

Oh, good; an address to write to. I love it; thanks.

The location you describe, I come up with 262641 for my '91 Legacy. This sounds like the s/n location. Maybe the 11111 and 22222 might be the identifier between the non-interference/interference engines. It would be interesting to see what others have found in that location and which engine they think they have.

Right behind the alternator just to the right of the "EJ22" in the casting. Numbers are in two lines with what I think is the 5 digit s/n in the 2nd line.

I always re-use the ones I pull with the axle. I have bought new ones from Smart Service in Shoreline in the past.

Highway 99 in Lynnwood, about 1/4 miles north of the traffic light with 188th on the west side of the highway across the street from Bent Bike.

The easiest and cheapest way I can think of to change the u-joint is to head to the nearest PAP yard and remove the entire two piece driveshaft with the center bearing carrier and just replace it. Do it quickly on your car since when you pull the driveshaft from the rear of the transmission, you'll loose some of the tranny gearoil.

Donny, good to hear you are alive and well. Missoula is a nice place to be. Best of luck finding work.

Interesting, we've been having the interference/non-interference fight here for the last few days. Apparently, '97 was the model year (not manufacture date) that the EJ22 became interference; and there's no apparent way to tell from the outside.....altho I suspect the BB in the serial number might be a clue.

I received the following answer from Smart Service: 1997 was the model year that the 2.2 engine went to short skirt pistons and roller rockers. The only way I know to identify them is looking at the rocker arms or pistons. The engine, including spark plug holes, looks identical to the predecessor. Thanks Mike, I appreciate the clarification.

Lots of ways to skin a cat as the old expression goes. I've found the pivot bolt easier to do than the ball-joint. AND the pivot bolt always goes back in with lots of never-seeze to prevent it from rusting to the bushing before the next time I do the axle. Lots of good suggestions here on the Board.

I recently got a used '97 Impreza wagon for my wife this past spring. It is more enjoyable to drive than my '91 Legacy wagon altho I am more than happy with both cars. I'm partial to manual gearboxes for both the control of the car in the winter and the increased gas mileage over the automatic. My wife's Imp has over 113K now and is still on the original cluctch. I can image the cost of two clutch replacements in the first 250K would be less than repairing/replacing an automatic which I personally doubt would last that long (personal opinion only, no data to back up that last statement). The reason there are so few Imprezas availble for re-sale is that people keep them longer and when one hits the market they disappear very quickly. It took me 4 months of ACTIVE looking before I found our car; even the over-priced Imps were sold before I got to look at them. Good luck in your search. You might also note that in '97 Subaru changed the 2.2L engine to an interference type which would mandate paying more attention to replacing the timing belt in a timely manner.

Actually I didn't; I was real pleased with myself since I was making fine progress. Then I placed the manifold which was all cleaned up and preprepped on the engine block! I was ticked to say the least; I really smarter than that.

I love this! The thread that will not die. TTTWND!

Definitely make sure your new diff is the same ratio as the old one. A lot less grief if you do that.

Let me be the first to RSVP!

Emily, to keep another long debate going, is there any way to tell the interference status of the EJ22 engine from the outside (serial number, visible mechanical differences, etc.)? This debate has been going on longer than the EGR debate this weekend. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40824. If probably wouldn't hurt to start a new thread on that topic since I shouldn't be hi-jacking this thread.

I have a fine EA82 manifold (thanks Jerry) but am saving it for MY car. This Brat is an interim ride for me until my Brat migrates back from Bozeman (thanks tailgatewagon) and my son plans on selling it before the end of the year.

Too late; got another from PAP. But thanks anyway.

Emily, you of all people don't have to apologize to anyone. However, you certainly kept a small group of us from getting bored this weekend! I hope all is well with you and yours. ---ed---

Ask Zapar about it; I think he suggests Kendall LSD gearoil. That's what I put into my Brat and I never had any problems with the diff. Unfortunately, it was so long ago that I don't remember anything but the brand.

Were you sleeping through WCSS7?

I rechecked the s/n on our '97 Imp and it's 65 BB 22222. I checked the s/n on my son's '96 Imp and it's 15 AB 11111. Now I'm really puzzled. What are the chances of 5 of kind on one car, much less two?

The ratio can be converted by installing the LSD kernal into any of the open diffs (look for info in the repair manual...I think it's there). EA82 diff will fit on the EA81 cars without any trouble. If the label is gone, or too greasy to want to read it, spin one rear wheel....if the other wheel turns in the same direction it's either an LSD or welded diff; if the other wheel turns in the opposite direction it's an open diff. Of course your yard will have to have the cars up in the air to do this. RXs have LSDs; it was an option on the turbos and GL-10 models; check all.....I recently pulled an LSD off an '85 BMW just for grins (I need to clean it up a bit before it goes on ebay).