edrach

Stolen car?? http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/96108781.html

Any chance that your car was in an accident and the front crossmember isn't straight any longer? There should be no mechanical pressure on the rad to cause that type of failure. I'd try the radiator cap also and don't overfill with coolent.

How many hubs do you want? Local yards here are full of them and I'd check the splines before I sent you a hub. No reason to buy new when a used one will do; they don't wear out unless the castle nut loosens up. If you really want a new hub, try www.1stsubaruparts.com.

Gee, I was hoping to sell you one out of my collection. They always go bad, so when I find a good one, I buy it. $5 plus shipping is what I'd charge anyway. Good score.

Locate near Sequim...in the rain shadow and supposedly lots of sunshine; also has an airport.

I certainly wouldn't run it without a protecting plate under the diff. It would not survice the Hillsboro course very long; definitely would have a problem at the Brooklyn course.

Did you change the fuel filter at the fuel pump in addition to the one in the engine compartment?

Only reason to replace the water pump is to avoid the cost of labor in doing it later. My rule of thumb on the EA82s has been to do the timing belts every 60K miles and the water pump every other timing belt change since the water pump is not likely to last 180K miles. Definitely change the tensioners too. While I'm at it, I definitely recommend www.1stsubaruparts.com; best prices around for genuine Subaru parts. Easier to call their 800# and ask for Jason in parts rather than negotiating the website. Good luck with the repairs.

Sensor for the dash guage is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold just to the left (passenger side) side of the carb; generally 2 pins in a "T" but could be one pin. The switch mounted on the side of the radiator is to turn the fan on and off by grounding it; only one pin on that one, but sometimes two. You can easily check for fan operation by taking the connector off the switch and touching it to a good ground with the ignition on. If the fan starts everything is okay but you might have a bad switch. When I said, might, it's because the grounding of the radiator might be defective. Look for a small wire (about 6 inches long or less) that grounds the radiator to the body of the car--this wire is located at the top of the radiator about 4 inches from the passenger side of the radiator. It's usually missing which causes the fan to not come on properly. If all else fails, run a ground wire from inside the car through a toggle switch and turn the switch on when the temp guage goes above half way. Good luck.

EA81 cars have the two filters; one a true filter down under the car near the fuel pump and the other (actually, called a separator with 3 fittings instead of two) located in the engine compartment next to the master brake cylinder. I think they did away with the separator with the EA82 cars.

I believe the tranny cooler inlet / outlet lines are on the side of the Subaru radiator, not the bottem. Adding an auxillary cooler is quite easy and not too expensive. I just installed one on our Toyota Dolphin motorhome; total cost less than $60 and about one hour of work.

Just a bump to the top to remind myself of the new date. Less than two weeks to go!

I have a used one ready to rebuilt. Free if you can pick it up or just for the cost of shipping. FOB, Bothell, WA.

Air flow error; when's the last time you changed the air filter?

Thanks Josh. --ed--

Search ebay for the factory service manual; amazing what you can sometimes find there. Also www.books4cars.com is a good source for FSMs. I can't help you out too much on the wiring, but I would suspect that you might have a faulty switch in your overhead light...it should be a 3 position switch; one for always on, one for always off, and one for on when the door is open. I think you're correct that the doorjamb switch is okay; I'd suspect the overhead light myself....pretty easy to replace if it is bad....easy to find at the local junkyard.

I'm getting an intermittant "Check Engine" on my dash. Going through the USRM and searching for how to read the codes, I keep coming up with "page not found" errors. Anyone have the procedure somewhere; it seems to be lost. For example, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 is no longer active. I have a '91 Legacy wagon; even the factory service manual is no help for this. Thanks.

Turbone and I exchanged the complete front dash on my '84 Brat some time ago; it was a direct replacement out of an EA81 wagon. It is a tedious job and I don't know anything to make the job easier other than to be sure you have lots of time. It took the two of us a good 10+ hours to complete the job. This was a GL into a GL replacement; I suspect a GL dash into a DL dash would work but I've never done one.

I might be off base here but on the EA81 cars, you have either an oil pressure guage or oil light (GL or DL models). If you have a GL you have a pressure sender; if you have a DL model, you have an idiot light; you don't have both. Any possibility that's the same case on your '85?

For the cost of a working alternator you can get at Pull a Part, you'd be better off going that route rather than trying to replace the voltage regulator in your current alternator; besides I suspect your alternator may not be putting out from the symptoms you describe. A voltage regulator will only control voltage by limiting the upper range; it can't make up for drops in alternator output.

When the exhaust pipe falls off the muffler, gases collect under the driver's side rear corner and combine with moisture to form acid which eats out the area around the bumper mounting pretty well; you really have to get under the Brat to check out that area. Besides the area mentioned by Flow, check the rocker panels, doors, and front of the door frames for rust. Price? I've seen two fairly rusty but driveable Brats with much higher mileage than the one you're looking at and they are not selling for the $700 to $800 they are priced at; I just bought a totally rust-free '84 with 115K on it for $2500. I would check with carfax on the one you're looking at to see if the 80K is correct since that's pretty low for that year car.

I think there might be a difference between the chrome and yellow Accel coils. I installed a yellow one (it was cheaper than the chrome one) three years ago into my brat and it's still running fine (the coil, not the brat--head gasket problems). I don't have any experience with a MSD coil.

Pat, catch qman sometime and he'll fill you in on the cause of the "tick of death." Actually, it's not really deadly....annoying as heck, but I've yet to see an EA82 "die" of it.

For those of us running the ORG rallycross series, here's some interesting news I just stumbled across: Information on the Rally School can be found at: www.get-primitive.com Information on the Rally Cross - In a way, we have exciting news... There will be TWO Rally Cross events in September. John Elkin, our illustrious Rally Department Head, has pulled off an 11th hour deal with the track management at PIR for a Rally cross NOT on the 25th... but on the 18th of September. This will be the next event in the ORG Points Series so if you want to keep your totals growing, DON'T miss this event! In addition... There will be a Rally Cross on the 25th of September to continue our pledge to support and grow our Rally Membership through the School. This will NOT be a points event but should be alot of fun. So you have a choice of one, the other or (best option) BOTH events in the merry Month of September! For more information on either event, you can send an email to rallycross@oregonrally.com and I'll make sure it gets to the right people. Best! Scott Kovalik - Humble Rally Servant & Human Hat Rack - As much as I like the fine folks at ORG who work very hard at putting on these events, their publicity does seem to be difficult to find occasionally. Just my 2 cents on that.--ed--

They are pretty; I'm just not sure I'd trust aluminum to hold on the wheels.