edrach

Carefully remove the paneling from the inside. After that it should be pretty obvious. Good luck with it.

Thanks for the update; this should keep me out of trouble for a few hours this weekend.

Which one? The new one or the "hulk"?

There's a blue '85 hatch in Lynnwood Pull a Part. That would give you the rear glass, or the whole rear hatch if you want it. I gave your number to my neighbor; I know he's busy, but I thought he'd call you.

Enough rust here for you? This is the "hulk" Brat we recently sent to it's new home in Sunnyside, WA. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/715/110Drivers_side1-med.jpg

I can take pics of my old Brat or my son's Brat; plenty of rust and holes there!!

I probably have as many if not more (too awkward to include a photo) but I suspect Corky has more manuals than anyone.

You're always welcome to come by again. What did you want to see the new Brat? Or listen to the old Brat? I was hoping I could hook up with you also but yesterday was an unusually busy day at work.

I was asking (without forming the question) for guidance in where I should be looking to resolve these codes. Anyway, these codes were collected in a two day period since I had disconnected the battery this past weekend doing the timing belt; codes started showing up Monday evening and Tuesday and were pulled that evening.

Yea, he did the brake work on it yesterday; I had Smart Service replace the rotors and pads after the emissions people smoked the brakes. I could have done that myself but since the emissions folks sent me a check for the repairs I had Smart Service do the work.

Finally managed to get the codes off my '91 Legacy. Car has 155K miles on it and runs well (my daily driver). Since I'm more used to the '80's cars, these codes mystify me a bit. The CEL just started flashing occasionally about a month ago. Last weekend, the timing belt and water pump were replaced but that shouldn't have anything to do with the codes I got since I'm still getting them (just not as many as there might have been since I disconnected the battery during the timing belt/pump work). Here are the codes: 35 CPC 24 Idle control 23 MAF 21 Coolent Temp sensor 11 Crankshaft speed The CPC seems to be the most prevalent and they might all be related to one common cause (he said hopefully). I think the CPC code has something to do with the charcoal cannister (can they actually go bad?). The idle thing might be correct since the idle is a bit slow (600) and uneven. Also, my gas mileage is down to around 23-24 on the highway compared to when I got the car two years ago. (Just looking for someone to point me in the right direction before I start reading in the Factory Manual). Thanks.

Sounds like a badly stuck lifter; definitely will need head gaskets; so far it doesn't sound like anything bad got to the lower end. I'll likely pull the engine this weekend if I can. I have another engine to drop in for the interim.

No I don't; this is a new one for me and I'm keeping it for my retirement fund. My old Brat is my first one and I still own it and plan on keeping it. The "hulk" brat was a thought of restoring it and I did not keep it long; it went to someone more talented than I and willing to do the extensive bodywork to get it roadworthy. The gold Brat belongs to my eldest son and has been in the family for 10 years now. So three out of four are still with the family and likely will remain for a while. Yes, it is very pretty.

My neighbor's name is Doug Moritz (not a Subaru freak, but definitely into cars). Drop me a 'phone number by PM and I'll give it to him and have him call you if you like. You can negotiate cost and such with him; but that should be easy compared to Spokane to Bothell. ---ed---

A set of shots I took for the insurance company to begin to establish a value for the Brat. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=765

http://www.justinliew.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=92&pos=3

I could ask my neighbor who towed my Brat back from Spokane if he would do a short tow locally. He's not too expensive, but time would be a question. Where is it now and where do you want it to go? I'll let you know.

The tip off should have been when your headlights got real bright just before they burned out! 28V is unbelievably high.

You should be okay; if the pressure had gone up that high it would have probably split a hose or something. I once had a stuck cap on a Ford wagon and it blew the side out of the radiator when the cap didn't release.

I would agree with most of what you say except don't change to synthetic on a new engine until 10K to 20K miles. Give the rings a better chance to seat with the dino oil; starting with synthetic might never allow the rings to seat properly.

Running PGT instead of Open in a production car....cool.

Matt, you were 5th in PGT...good going. Results at http://www.pregrid.com/ppd_rx.htm

Paul is a standout person in all respects. I hope his rallycross school last weekend went well. Unfortunately, I had a Legacy with a bum waterpump to replace and a Brat to pick up this weekend. Both of those went well (thanks Brian P., Brian G., Doug, and Dave). Did anyone go to the rallycross this weekend? How was it?

I hope you were able to run the event yesterday at Hillsboro. Paul Eklund normally lays out courses more to your (an my) liking. I couldn't be there and wish I had, but I had more important things on my agenda this weekend. As to the last rallycross event, ORG still has a Nov. 6th date on the books but don't know if that will come off or not.

Check out the Nokian website. For all the hype and such, the Hakkipollitta snow tires are still the best studless snows. And they are aggressive enough to work well in the mud.