edrach

Geoff, you can save yourself trouble by just mounting the ignition switch in some easily accessible but not obvious location and then use a screwdriver to turn on the ignition and start the car using the existing switch. Just make sure the mechanical stop for the steering lock is definitely deactivated.

Sorry about the rally car; but glad you're coming anyway. Sounds cool, I don't mind leaving the jack behind. I'll be staying at the same hotel as before. See you there.

I added a wiring harness and relays to my '91 Legacy to handle the extra current and install 55/100W bulbs to replace the wimpy 45/55W standard bulbs (also, don't get the "blue" ones; they are not an improvement). I bought a pre-made harness from Competition Limited in Pinckney, MI and it took me less than 30 minutes to install it. You can always make your own harness and relays if you know what you're doing but the $45 I spent for the pre-made harness was worth every penny in saved time.

Qman has the right idea for making a new key from the numbers; I've done this for a number of my cars. Your idea will work providing you make sure the steering lock doesn't accidently slip and lock your steering.

I use Tuf-oil on the recommendation of the local locksmith. What you describe is a common problem with the early 80's lock cylinders of all subarus (and nissans and mazdas). The only real fix is to by pass the ignition lock assembly or replace the lock cylinder. I've had it done on our older '84 Brat and the new one needs it also. Locksmith had a heck of a time finding a new lock cylinder both times. I'm waiting for an appointment to have the newer Brat done also. Pricey job; pretty close to $100 to do it right (new lock cylinder of the later design that won't fail again; and have it re-keyed so the old key still works the ignition AND the doors).

If you want to do another engine swap, let me know; I'm just up the road in Bothell.

Is it still available? I'm sure someone on this side of the mountains would "screen" if for you to see if it's worth the two hour trip from Wenatchee to buy it. (I'd look at it for you if no one else volunteers).

Now here's what I think you're looking for; with luck it's still available: http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/102842371.html

You're getting good advice here. Walk away and bide your time. There will be the perfect car for you in the near future. Just wait for it, it'll show up.

Stick with the maual tranny; the extra control and increased gas mileage is worth it.

I would not go more than $1000 on the car with lots of rust. Mechanical items can be replaced easily; rust just can't be stopped and is not easily (that means cheaply) repaired. I would opt for the rust free car any time. Also, $7400 is way out of line for a '97 Outback. I paid $3995 for a '97 Impreza wagon (essentially the same as the Outback except for the two tone paint job) with 113K miles on it this past May here in western Washington. And I would have passed on it if it had any rust at all. Check craigslist or autotrader to see what's available in your price range. Take your time and keep looking; I'm sure you can find a clean, rust free, Outback in a reasonable price range ($5000 for an early model; $7500 for something that is "cherry" condition and low miles).

Karin, both items are cheap at Pull a Part; Alternator is $12.50 plus small core charge and tax; battery is $14.50 plus core charge and tax. I have three batteries here from PAP which I buy because they are cheap and I have an easy way to test them and if they don't test out, I just take them back for a full refund (receipt and marking needed and within 30 days). Alternators I pick up when I find a good one; I install it on my car to make sure it works and the working one I took off my car goes onto my "spare parts" shelf in case the other one fails after the 30 day grace period. Last alternator I bought is still in my car after 2 years of use. As to the stereo discharging your battery, pick up a "trickle charger" from Harbor Freight (or Radio Shack) and put your battery on a small charge when you're not going to use the car for a week or more; this will prevent the dead battery syndrome that you've already experienced.

All the autoparts stores in this area offer free testing of the battery and alternator. Of course, the object is to sell you a new battery or alternator. If you have a digital voltmeter, an easy test that works 95% of the time is to measure the voltage across the battery at idle...it should be around 12.5 to 13 volts. As you increase the engine rpm it should climb to around 14 to 14.5 volts at 2000 rpm. Lower voltages than that usually indicates a bad alternator. A good battery will normally charge up to the alternator output; if the battery voltage drops significantly below 12.5 volts at idle, it usually means it's time for a new battery. This test isn't 100% because it doesn't test the battery under full load conditions but is a pretty good indicator of how well the battery/alternator combination work. If that combination seems okay and the voltage guage in the dash is still significantly low, I'd think about looking for a bad ground.

You're in luck; new EA81 cars showed up in PAP this week....all the interior pieces you might want.

Seafoam is available at our local NAPA stores.

I have a wiring harness (under dash section) for an '85 GL Hatch (EA81). Probably the same; if someone can verify that, it's for sale. Only problem with it is that someone butchered up the wires for the original radio; otherwise it looks okay.

I left the O2 sensor hanging; there's nothing on the weber that will respond to it, but I didn't want to plug the hole by removing it. I just tied up the wire from it so it didn't get ripped up in something.

Apparently Robbin and Maynard withdrew their bid. Dropped the amount from $5000 back to $2350!

I replaced the single barrel carter-weber on my son's '82 brat recently with a 32/36 weber. Highway gas mileage went from 20-21 to 27-28 with that change. I'd think the emissions went down from previous since more gas was going into making the car move more efficiently; I did pass WA state emissions after making the switch also; I don't know how you would fare in CT.

I can't believe I didn't put this in the write up that's in the USRM. Anyway, go to Sears; Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct); that's the right size drift punch for removing the roll pin.

I have to agree; I've had good luck with junk yard axles. If the boots are in good shape, the axles are generally also in good shape and last long enough to justify the $25 cost of them; also the Pull a Part yards here will warrantee the part for 30 days....long enough to pull it, install it, and see if it's working okay. Also, pulling one at the local PAP (where the car is up on a 3 point support) is also good practice for removing an axle and if you break something inadvertantly it's not a major crisis.

You're right about that; I could use a service crew.

Replacing an axle is not too difficult. First one will require a couple of hours of your time. Look for write-up in USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=77

Axle costs are $55 plus shipping plus refundable core from www.cvaxles.com; although since you're in Colorado, I'd suggest you email ShawnW at ccrinc....probably the best deal for you on axles there.

I bet I won't loose as much oil either.