edrach

Drop a line to Subiegal (she's parts person at Chaplin's Subaru); she might even know that off the top of her head. I bought some recently but who knows where I put the receipt. Also, try the 800 # for any nearby US dealer if that doesn't work. Good luck.

Here's the link to the regs: http://www.scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/2006RallyCrossRules.pdf

Sorry duplicated post; firefox isn't as easy for me as IE. Besides this computer is so slooooooooow........

Check the thread in the meet/greet section for the regs and you'll get all the details. But there are three classes: Stock, prepared, and modified. And each class is divided into RWD, FWD, and then 4(A)WD. What's allowed in each class is spelled out in the pdf.

Far too expensive for a junkyard Brat. If it were running and a little cleaner, I'd think the $500 would be okay.

Depending on what else you've modified, you might still be legal in Stock AWD class. Check the regulations for what's allowed and what's not.

Syonyk is correct. You can still have a good time.....and the skill of the driver means a lot. My oldest son took 2nd overall at one rallycross with an '82 Brat, single barrel carter-weber carb, bad shocks all around (as a matter of fact he won the Truck class two years in a row without ever taking less than 1st in class). I'm not nearly as good, but I think I'll come in ahead of at least 50% of my "Prepared" class in the upcoming season. I do so enjoy coming in ahead of cars that have triple my horsepower and cost $10K or more than my car.

Truck class in rallycross is a thing of the past. SCCA in their inimitable wisdom:rolleyes: has queered the deal with new classes. Check the thread in meet/greet about the new regulations. My Brat will now run in Prepared AWD (one class up from stock and one down from modified). No provision made for engine displacement or weight. I'll still run with what I brung but SCCA's attempt to "open the sport to newcommers" will likely fall on its face since you will need to spend $$$$ to field a car that's competitive in class. And if the newcommers don't stand a chance of placing, they will not return to the sport.

Alternator is bad; battery might be okay, but not fully charging any more since the alternator is not charging properly. If you have a battery charger, put it on the battery for now but change the alternator asap before you're stranded.

Best shop on the eastside is Smart Service in Shoreline http://www.smart-service.com/ . Avoid the shop on Lake City Way in Lake City.

If the Pug shop near you is the one just off Holman near 103rd, I wouldn't go there for pugs. The owner hates subaru people cause they bug him for rims for non-pugs. Trust me, I've been there. He's really an okay guy, but likes his pugs like we like our subes.

Until recently I used Fram filters for the last 30 years on a number of makes of cars and never had a failure. On the other hand I change my oil every 2000 miles!

I was just at PAP today; but limited in what I could get since I didn't have my tools with me. You're in luck since there was a nice '84 wagon that went into the yard today and you can get the start off that; pretty easy to do.

Pull a Part would be the best; also check your battery connections and ignition switch cable; it might not be the starter after all.

Get an OEM PCV; it's only around $15 and the aftermarket brands have a poor reputation on this Board. You might try www.1stsubaruparts.com altho the $5 minimum shipping might exceed the 35% discount.

Buy one with a no questions asked replacement warranty for at least 90 days. If it was properly rebuilt it should last you a few years; if it was not rebuilt properly, you'll likely know the first month. Lifetime warranty is fine if you're not paying more than 10% extra; more than that is a waste of money. I'm partial to NAPA but they are usually slightly more expensive.

I'm with all the votes on the PCV valve. Hopefully that's it. I fought the same problem with my '91 2.2L at 157K miles. It started just like yours with blowing lots of smoke out the back when cold and then that cleared up as the engine warmed up. Over the course of 6 weeks the oil consumption increased to a quart every 300 miles (and not a drop on the driveway so it wasn't leaking out). I found the source was lots of oil in the large intake air hose; it was just being sucked into the engine and blown out the back. I finally had it checked by Smart Service and they suggested I replace the engine. It had a real bad case of blow-by as well as HC's in the coolent (a sure sign of head gasket failure). It never overheated in all that time, altho I had a number of Check Engine codes (none of which seemed related to the symptoms). Sorry to be the bearer of possible bad news; I hope it's your PCV. I was fortunate enough to find a replacement engine which went in about 6 weeks ago and is running like a charm. Good luck.

Hungry?

Try Pull a Part; Hwy 99 just north of 188th St. in Lynnwood. Bring your tools and pull the part yourself; you won't beat the price anywhere else.

Take it to the emissions guru at the 6th Ave. South emissions place; he'll get you to pass for $40 or you pay nothing. If there's anything else wrong with the setup and he can't tweak it in, he can usually point you in the right direction. Give me a call and I'll get you more information. ---ed---

So do mice! I found a nest in the ducting for the blower in an old Brat at one time. It taught me to never leave crumbs or anything edible in the car; if there's food they will find a way to get it and set up house-keeping.

Boy I thought I had posted the results; sorry. Replaced the purge cannister solenoid and then reset the codes (although that seems more difficult than I expected). I had to pull the most complicated method of doing it off Josh's 'site but it finally reset the codes. I had added a can of seafoam to the last tankful of gas that I installed before replacing the solenoid. The more I ran the car the better it got. I now have 2500 miles on the engine I installed and haven't seen a CEL since the re-set. The high idle/slow return has been gone now for four weeks. I get 22/23 mpg and the new engine doesn't lose a drop of oil in 2000 miles when I last changed it. I'm fortunate to have gotten such a good engine; looks like it will be a keeper!

Is the vent line to the gas tank still hooked up? Or is it plugged? Could cause intermittant fuel starvation.

That's too sad. We're fortunate to have some good dealers here in the NW.

I don't think I have a bad motor mount, but I'll check it out. Too bad I didn't know that yesterday when I had it up on the ramps to do an oil change.