edrach

http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200603_rallyX

Just to report that I had the pleasure of attending Paul Eklund's rallycross school in Hillsboro, OR and the rallycross after the school. School consisted of a Friday evening discussion of vehicle handling. Saturday was lots of seat-time with individual instructors practicing skidpad runs, figure 8's, multiple turns, and slalom. There was also a competitive TSD event in the middle of the day to allow for a lunch break. Saturday was rainy most of the day and the 37 students managed to churn up the field pretty well. I was the lone Brat entry in field of WRXs, Imprezas, and some full-blown rally cars. Muddy conditions have always been hard for me, but Saturday's session gave me lots of "seat-time" and I started to get the hang of it. A short rallycross at the end of the day was used to see how much people learned. In spite of the conditions and on and off rain, it looked like everyone had a great time (especially me). Sunday brought out a phenomenal turnout of cars for the rallycross event as well as a change in the weather. Laying out a course on the churned up field proved difficult, but Paul Eklund managed to get a course set up on the grass that was a bit short but still quite challenging and pretty quick for the conditions. On and off sunshine helped dry out the field somewhat and the afternoon saw the modified classes post some pretty fast times. I was pretty happy with my times since I saw some pretty good improvement relative to others I was running with in the past. ORG managed a fine event with a record 140 entries; well run, and on-time, and a ton of fun. I'm looking forward to the next event in April. Results to be posted as soon as they are available.

Glad you're up and running again. Great job getting back on the "air" so quickly.

Loosen the big nut by one turn first but don't remove it yet. Then knock out the roll pin at the transmission end (Sears Craftsman #42885 WF works perfectly). Note the hole has a beveled side and a non-beveled side; knock it out from the non-beveled side and when re-placing it insert the pin from the beveled side. If your new axle comes with a new roll pin, use it; if not, I've always re-used the same pin without any problems. Also remember which way it was for installing the new axle; if the axle is rotated 180 degrees (i.e. non-beveled hole to beveled hole), you'll be 1/2 spline non-aligned and won't be able to get the roll pin back in. You'll have to see what else on the suspension you'll need to loosen/remove the inner joint (I can't picture it enough for this), but pull the axle away from the transmission and remove the inner joint first from the stub axle on the transmission. Then remove the big nut and push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub. Re-assemble in the reverse order. Replace the locking nut with a new one and tighted to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more) and peen over the locking tab. This is much easier than on the older GL series. Good luck with it.

Did you grab the LSD on the trashed one?

Closest Board members I know of are in Spokane or near Yakima. Hopefully, someone else closer is available. Good luck.

Assuming the intake and exhaust manifolds match, I would likely just keep the old intake manifold with the wiring harness and switch it over to the newer engine. That avoids the wiring pitfalls.

Flo might have the right idea; if you drop by my house I can show you the difference in the two senders. Or if I get to it I can photo the two senders so you know which one you have. If you have the one for the guage, swapping dashes will be less costly.

No, this was the result of a double home invasion. It started around the corner from my house about a half mile away around midnight last weekend. Two guys, armed with rifles, went to a house there and tried to rob the renter who lived there. The thieves roused a local dog and his owner went out to see what was going on which caused one of the robbers to flee leaving his buddy behind. My neighbor retreated and called 911. The first robber then broke into another house and forced the owners to give him the keys to their Impreza at gunpoint. He then came back to pick up his buddy and they both go away. By the time the police arrived, they were both gone. Oddly enough, Channel 5 broadcast some mini-mart photos of these two guys so they were apparently involved in another incident earlier. So far they haven't been caught. I don't think they were targeting the subaru owner; I'm familiar with the car having driven by it frequently. The owners keep it parked on a slab in front of their house and it was likely the first car this guy saw out in the open and he decided this was the one for some reason. Who knows what prompted this although I suspect they had a reason for targeting the first home.

RECOVERED! Update: Car was recovered on 3/17 undamaged in Seattle. Police are looking for the thieves since the car was stolen at gunpoint in a home invasion robbery. It got a fair amount of time on last evening's 11 o'clock news. It might be repeated on the Saturday morning news; locals might catch it on Channel 5.

I saw your other post and GD's reply; good advice. If you're going to PAP you might pick up the oil pump along with the sender off a GL (there's a blue '84 wagon with 127K on the odometer) which would be a good donor car and then buy an after market guage. Actually, you might consider a GL dash; if I remember correctly all the wiring is there for you. Call me, I might have the right dash for you.

Check the wire going to the oil pressure sender; if it's shorted to ground the light would be on. If not, the sender is likely bad; pick one up at the local PAP and replace it. I don't like idiot lights for oil pressure either; replace sender with aftermarket guage and sender.

Your oil pressure sensor is really a switch since the DL doesn't have a oil pressure guage. There's couple of early EA81's at Lynnwood PAP and there should be a pressure sender there. How did you drive it home with a missing sender? PUGs show up at PAP about once a month; if you hit the yard at the right time you can score a set for pretty cheap. 176K is just about broken in; it should have lots of miles left. It's almost old enough to be exempt from emissions testing.

I've pulled some acceptable headlamp assemblies when I have the chance for the '90--'91 models. $35 plus shipping from Bothell if you can't polish them to your satisfaction.

Jeeez, I just love it when you talk dirty!

RX models, I think all years; optional on GL-10 turbo models (mostly '89). Some early model Legacies had a 3.900 VLSD. I don't know of any others. Label on diff is very clear: LSD 3.700. If the label is gone and the car is off the ground, turn the wheel; if the other wheel turns in the same direction it's either a LSD or welded diff; if it turns in the opposite direction it's an open diff.

A number of us in the Northwest rallyX.

I've sold a set of the four lug motion rims with caps for $100 plus shipping in the past. I would expect the XT6 rims to go for a slight bit more since they are less available.

Yea, I forgot to mention the bit about the windshield. If it has to stay in, a good right angle screw driver is a must.

That's where they are in my '91 Legacy.

That's a good time to do that also; I have a pulled heater box, complete, if you're looking for one. I won't tell you how long it took me to get it out. Make me an offer I can't refuse.

You don't mention it, but I think your '98 is AWD. Replacing two tires looks odd. It's very important for all four tires to be the same size on an AWD car; if you have two new tires and two slightly worn tires you are asking for an expensive repair. It could also be contributing to the "sway."

I don't remember, but I think it's a plug-in; just swap it in and all the wiring is there. Terrific job though; Turbone helped me with a GL to GL dash replacement on my '84 Brat a while ago. It took us all of 10 hours. It just requires patience and time.

That's the one; everyone forgets about that one. I had one once that had been on the car for ten years (manufacture date had been stamped on it). Car ran like crap whenever I stepped on it. Easy fix (and cheap too); hope it does the trick for you.

Have you checked the fuel filter at the fuel pump?