edrach

You are good; you should consider a job with a Subaru dealership. Thanks for doing this.

I think I will send my check to the USMB since the first answer turned down the beer.

Right hand drive too; 'wonder where it lives.

You guys are all too good. Turns out it was a loose connection on the negative side of the coil. I don't know for the life of me, why it would work everytime except when going around a left hand turn (wires weren't tight or under any tension). As soon as I tightened up on the connection all was good again.

Yep, it was a loose wire, but not a ground wire.

Damn! First shot across the bow and you have it! :clap: Any thought of where?

This happened recently on my '84 Brat. Putting it out for grins to see if anyone can guess what the cause was. I was just fortunate to stumble across the cause but certainly didn't figure it out. Symptom: Car would stumble and engine would seem to miss or lose power on left hand turns only. Right hand turns no problem; straight ahead no problem. No unusual noises from under the hood or drivetrain. No loss of power other than when making left hand turns. Extra information (not that it will help any:rolleyes: ): '84 Brat with a junkyard EA81 engine with 120K on it; runs well, quiet and doesn't lose oil between changes (at 2000 mile intervals). D/R 5 speed transmission from EA82 along with 3.900 LSD. Rear swaybar from Whiteline. Good axles with no torn boots. No A/C or power steering. Weber carb and Accel coil (yellow) that have been in the car for over 3 years without trouble. Car will do an honest 85 mph in 5th on a level road. I'm putting this out as a challenge. First one to figure it out will get a check from me for your favorite brew (no 30 year old wines please:eek: ). It also demonstrates how sometimes simple things can cause running problems. I would guess I could have spent lots of money at some repair shop before the cause was found and fixed.

Bad distributor cap,rotor,ignition wires; startthere.

It's true; unfortunately I don't know of any pull a part type yards that are close enough to the border for me to visit; I'd make the trip to remove a set. Part of the installation is taking them apart and knowing where everything belongs when re-assembling.

Starting to have trouble with the automatic retractors on the shoulder harness of my Legacy. Is the chatter, jamming due to problems in the track or something slipping in the drive mechanism? I really don't like the auto belt arrangement. Has anyone found a suitable replacement that doesn't look bad?

Sorry, rollbar is not for sale yet.

Try B&B, Autozone, NAPA, and Action Auto. As to who has them in stock, the yellow pages and telephone are your friend.

Soak with rust penetrant twice (or thrice or more) a day for a couple of days. Get up behind the fender well and soak the bolts from the rear. It'll be much easier then with a breaker bar or air tools. If it still won't go, soak it some more. Last choice get some heat on the bolts if all the above doesn't work. Patience is the key; if you break a bolt off, you're really in a world of hurt.

Mary, Your car has nothing to do with it; believe me it's just co-incidence and if you didn't have three of them you'd likely not even notice it. These are the super bright mercury vapor lights and when they get too hot, they turn themselves off, cool down and then turn on again. We have one of these at the end of the street I turn onto to leave here and it turns itself off at least 50% of the time that I pull up to the intersection. It is creepy though.

These lights come with H4 bulbs and they reverse the wiring on the hi/lo filaments. You need to re-wire the socket to reflect the wiring for the new lamps. Go back to the company you bought them from and as for corrected wiring so you can install them properly. I ran into this before on an old wagon but don't remember how I re-wired them. Good luck.

What about California's emissions nazis? My understanding is that if the part wasn't stock with the car when manufactured, it wouldn't pass.

Schuck's, B&B, and Napa all have the tool to engage the caliper and make it easier to screw them back into the caliper. I agree with Skip in that it helps to relieve the pressure by releasing the bleeder when you turn them in.

Kevin is correct on the interference engines starting with the '97 model year (could be manufactured in late '96 and be considered a '97). My wife loves her '97 Impreza wagon and I enjoy driving it more than my Legacy wagon. Hers is a 5 speed (we don't think much of automatics....personal opinion there). Handling of the AWD Impreza is vastly superior to the Loyale. I know the 2.2L engine has superior power; 'don't know how the 1.8 compares. Car is also much easier to service for certain things (axle swap for instance and timing belt is also much easier). I don't think you can go wrong.

What's the mileage? If it's the 2nd time the belt is getting replaced, I think the water pump would be a good idea. If you have a really stong vise, you can collapse and re-use the belt tensioner. If you have black seals, replace with the tan ones; if you have tan seals, they should out-live the car from what our resident Subaru guru tells me.

One of the nice things about Bow Wow is they sell weber adapters and linkage adapters and such at much lower prices than the usual weber outlets. Unfortunately they are not a national chain.

I don't have to swear at it; I have a large sledge hammer and impact tool to "persuade" the ornery ones.

Milky coolent....bad head gasket mojo. Clicking CV joints....bad axle mojo. Rust.....super bad mojo; there's an old saying: "Rust never sleeps." Unless you're a home mechanic with good abilities in bodywork, walk away from this one. There are still lots of nice Subarus around at good prices. Even if this one were free, I don't think I'd go for it.

Here's the link to my weber installs: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=812 The new software has thrown me for a loop. There should be 7 weber photos in my Weber album; labelled DGAV1, DGAV2, DGAV3, DFAV1, DFAV2, DFAV3, and DFAV4. Somehow the tail-gate photos that I had previously uploaded into my Stuff for Sale album have shown up here also and the labels have disappeared and all the photos are Weber Installations or some such. Basically, the DGAV carb has the linkage on the passenger side and the DFAV has the linkage on the driver side. The fuel lines also are reversed. I used the stock Hitachi linkage on the DGAV and I have a hokey throttle return set-up (don't laugh, it looks hokey but it works just fine). The DFAV has the $10 throttle return linkage I bought at Bow Wow which I really like and has a nicer return linkage than my setup. I actually like the DFAV better even though it's a 28/36 since it doesn't interfere with the distributor wiring as much as the DGAV. Both webers work just fine (thanks to Cameron in Oz who rebuilt them both for me a long time ago); you might find his fine post on plumbing and adjustment if you search for it---I sure hope it isn't lost in all our transitions. If there's something not clear that I could take a better picture of drop me a PM with your need and I'll try to get a better shot for you.

The 28/36 might save you some gas since the 36 secondary normally doesn't open until you hit 3500 rpm. After that, I don't think your car, or you, will notice the difference.

DFAV is a mirror image of the DGAV; when mounted the throttle linkage is on the driver's side instead of passenger side. I have installed one of each in my Brat and my son's Brat and I actually like the DFAV better since it doesn't seem to interfere with the distributor cap as much as the DGAV. I'll take some pics of both when I can and post them.