edrach

Pug wheels are a straight bolt on. My youngest drove a while on 14" Pugs with his '83 wagon and my oldest had 15" pugs on his '82 Brat....both without lift or adapters of any sort.

I don't have the answer either, but you might post which car this is for. I'm ignorant on codes and not sure if codes transcend models/years.

I'm still partial to www.cvaxles.com (Ocala, FL). $55/axle plus refundable core charge plus shipping. Stay away from ARI.

More info: Hospitality Inn 10155 SW Capitol Highway Portland, OR 97219| Reviews | This Portland Oregon hotel profile is brought to you compliments of the HotelGuide Network. The Hospitality Inn is located in Portland, Oregon. Telephone:503-244-6684Reservations:866-613-9330Fax:503-244-8255 Website says rooms from $63; I've stayed there before and can usually get a room for $49....then again it's been awhile since I've been there last.

Wedding invitation says 5:30 PM at The Old Church, 1422 SW 11th Ave., Portland, OR. Mapquest is your friend. Jeanne and I will likely stay overnight at the Hospitality Inn which is about 6 miles away (we want to hit Costco and Fry's while we are down there).

On the old gen cars the key code is punched into the front passenger door lock (on the inside of course). I suspect this is the same for the newer cars; most dealers don't seem to write the key code in the owner's manual.

The problem you have is very common with the old locks. I just had a locksmith re-do mine with a brand new lock cylinder ($120 but worth it to me not to have to change all the locks). Best bet is to try to get a lock at a local PAP for your car and then have the locksmith re-key it to work with your existing keys. Still pretty pricey and taking a lock out of a car at PAP will tell you whether you want to do it again on your car. Plus if you break it, you haven't disabled your car; you just look for another donor car and be more careful next time. In a pinch, you can remove the ignition switch from the existing lock and use a screwdriver to start the car; not very secure but it'll work for the time being.

Jeanne and I will be there.

Neo, that is a fine Brat. Amazing that it's still intact in the NJ air. I grew up in Irvington, Union and lived in South Orange, Dover and Rockaway before I moved out of state. I still miss old friends from that area; especially my old rally buddies. Best of luck with the Brat; looks like she was fortunate to find someone who appreciates her.

I wouldn't attach the DOJ first since you can bung up the DOJ if you put too much force on it. Best suggestion I have is to remove the 4 studs on the hub and pull off the outer hub portion from the rotor; this will allow you to get in deeper into the hub and line up the spacer better. Good luck.

Regarding the power; it's certainly not a lot of power robbed from the engine or the alternator, but it takes energy to spin that little puppy around and it's got to come from somewhere. I wasn't trying to start a pissing contest here, just answering a query...."what's the difference?" As to the second part of the question, here's a pic from my Brat which has the single pole thermoswitch on the side of the radiator. The original is usually a skinny 18 guage wire or less. Even tho there's negligible current draw here, I would suggest replacing it with about a 14 guage or larger; they last longer. Okay, what did I do wrong? I uploaded the pic into my photo gallery and then attached it using the URL from the picture, but that gave me the stupid red X:banghead: Try this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4663&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Sometimes there is only one pole in which case, the radiator needs to be grounded properly. I don't know which models have which, but I've seen it both ways.

Thermoswitch, bad grounds, bad connection to the thermoswitch are the three primary causes. Electric fan is better because it only runs when needed and doesn't rob power from the engine when it's not needed.

I've pulled the oil pan on one of my cars; can't remember if it was EA81 or EA82; I think it was my '86 wagon. The point of this is that I didn't have to raise the engine. After removing the bolts (the ones above the cross member are a pain), I think I just had to rotate the pan 90 degrees to slip it out. Went back in the same way. I used some type of gasket gook to keep the new gasket in place. Check with Smart Service; I think they told me that's how to remove the oilpan. I'm a firm believer in getting another pan from Pull a Part, but you need to know they puncture the pan to drain the oil (don't ask me why) and then plug the hole with a rubber plug. So if you get an oil pan from them, know that you'll still have to weld a hole shut. Also, Pull a Part is a good place to test the technique for pulling the pan. Find out how to do it on another car before putting your car out of commission because of an unexpected delay.

The electric fan is always connected to +12V and turns on when the temperature switch in the radiator closes the circuit to ground. Often it stops working because the radiator itself is not grounded. Check to see that the little ground wire at the top of the radiator is still there and connected since that might be the cause of the failure. It also helps to insure that the temp switch is still connected to the cars wiring harness. I know this doesn't answer your question but it might resolve your problem.

Jumpy tach can also be a worn distributor shaft bushing. Pull the distributor cap and check for wobble on the shaft. Also check all the ignition wires and connections if you haven't already done so.

Maybe that's where I picked up the habit; I've got to be careful who I hang around with!

Not to hi-jack your post but check your email; I'm personally not in favor of the post '85 wagon wheels since they are known to be normally out of balance. I'd try to look for a set of the Motion or 8 hole alloy wheels on the wheels page. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html

Pat, I really didn't think I was "cussin" all that much. But sometimes you have to "persuade" the parts to come apart. You're giving me a bad rap. By the way which SPFI did you pull, the black wagon in row 1east or the other one?

To bad this link doesn't work anymore.

Boy I'm sure glad you're overly addicted to cars; if you didn't have that you'd be in trouble!

As the clutch disk wears, the adjustment gets tighter and eventually the clutch will start to slip because it's not allowed to engage completely. Check the adjustment (about 1/16" play at the clutch fork; 1/2" play at the clutch pedal); these are "my" specs; I'm sure someone knows the actual numbers. As to where the clutch engages, I've never been able to change that without messing up the specification on the clutch pedal play.

One answer to the bolts seizing up is to apply never-seeze to the bolts when re-attaching the covers.

You are a glutton for punishment; hope you brought your foul weather gear. good luck.

I know I should know this, but I need some reminders. I think the freeze plugs are located in the heads, two on each side. Am I right; are there others? Thanks.