edrach

Go back to the parts store; they owe you the correct axle as well as a new roll pin. Count the splines this time to make sure. It's possible the rebuilder mis-labled the box or used a turbo DOJ by accident. Good luck.

I would just get another lock from PAP if you can find one with a key (or you can get the keycode off the door lock on the donor car). A little tricky to get off (bring a portable drill so you can remove the "theftproof" screws) but no big deal; practice on another car so you can avoid destroying the lock that you want. This is quite a common problem with the older subes; I just paid $100+ to replace the lock cylinder in mine and have it re-keyed to match my old key.

Four 5-1/2x13 enkies with Silverstone rally tires.

Check your PMs; I'm in.

Yours works too now. Thanks. Too cool.

Unfortunately comes up as a red "X" on my computer. Here's mine; not as cool as yours but I like it.....

All the stations vacuum check the gas cap; I've run three cars through inspection in the last 6 months and all had the gas caps checked.

That may change if the legislature adopts the CA style emissions.

You will be required to get an emissions test every odd numbered year that you renew the registration (since yours is an odd numbered year of manufacture). If you car is 24 years or older, then you are exempt from getting an emissions test. When your car comes up for renewal this year you'll have to go through emissions. I don't know what the story is with the proposed CA style emissions standards.

As long as you have your health, age is just a state of mind. I'm currently in my mid-life crisis; only recently realized I'm middle-aged. I always was a slow learner.

Buy the solenoid and save the receipt and bring it over. I'll lend you my meter and you can check it out. Take it back for refund if it's no good.....you've got 30 days to do that and you're going there weekly or more anyway.

I'd love to see that course again. Looks like fun.

It's really hard to tell. I thought the stuff in the lower left was due to the short "options" like the figure 8 section that's pretty obvious. There was a quick complete run at the end of Saturday's lessons that could have been what is seen but two people on the ORG message board think this view is from two or three years ago. Google has their watermark 2005 all over this, but I couldn't say when the actual satellite view was captured.

Where is your timing set? Also check to see that the vacuum advance doesn't advance the timing too much. Lastly whose gas are you buying; in the Seattle area the off brands are notorious for selling lower octane.

I'm surprised it will work at all since the shaft lengths are different.

My eldest was googling around on the computer the other day and found this. It looks quite possible that the satellite photo was taken on the Saturday of the rallycross school. I thought it'd be interesting. http://www.google.com/maps?q=NE+34th+Ave+at+NE+Cornell+Rd+Hillsboro+97124&spn=0.008508,0.010450&t=k&hl=en

I vote for the $5K car also. As a matter of fact my daily driver was bought two years ago for $2500 ('91 Legacy Wagon with manual tranny and 98K miles on the odo). I now have 143K on it and plan on keeping until I can't fix it anymore (hasn't needed anything other than routine maintenance since I got it). Our newest car was a '97 Impreza Wagon with 112K on it for just under $4K (bought 2 months ago). Same manual tranny and same 2.2L engine. My personal preference is the 2.2L gen1 engine built from around '90 to early '97. Strong, robust and reliable; and IT'S A NON-INTERFERENCE ENGINE!! Everything after that is fine, but not quite as reliable and if you're unlucky enough to have a timing belt break, it's likely to be a very expensive repair.

Just as an aside, the EA81 engines also came with ND or Hitachi distributors; but they will NOT interchange with the EA82 distributors. The ignition module in the Hitachi version is the same for both engine types.

Snowman has it right; carb'd EA82's had either the Hitachi or Nippondenso distributor. It's not unusual to get the wrong set at the autoparts store. If you have a choice, get the Hitachi; I've found the ignitor module easier to replace on the Hitachi version although it is quite pricey; I have a collection of used ones from PAP to carry as spares.

Hopefully you turned in the transfer of ownership papers to the state DOL. No telling what this guy did with the car after he got it. If he abandons it on the highway and it gets towed you'll be liable for towing and storage ($$$$$$$) if you didn't file the proper papers. Sometimes it doesn't pay to be nice.

Good luck!

Especially since that's the weekend of the 2nd ORG rallycross I believe.

Are you talking about cars or girl friends!

Look inside the inner joint and count the splines; you have 23 on the original axle. They gave you an axle with 25.

You have the 25 spline axle; should have the 23. Oversize inner joint will shear the roll pin every time.