edrach

Harbor Freight has some awesome tarps.

So who all is going to the rallycross this weekend? Portlanders: what's the long term weather report for Sunday? And the time leading up to it. It would be nice if the field were waterlogged like last time; no need for the water truck.

If you haven't done it yet, replace the air filter. I think running it hard for two tankfulls of gas will help a lot. Also check for a good connection on the O2 sensor.

If you can persuade another local EA81 car of similar vintage to come visit, it should help figure out the wiring. Good luck with it. The HTKYSA disk is on it's way via 1st class mail; I hope it helps.

As long as the rear ratio (3.700 or 3.900) is matched, they are all the same.

Again: www.cvaxles.com.

Way to go; I can't wait until next weekend.

Carefully, locate the center with a punch and drill out about 1/2" deep if you can and open up the hole to about 1/8th inch diameter. Soak the bolt remains with liquidwrench or some such and use an "easy out" to try to unscrew it. Most of the time you can save yourself more work this way. If not, you're most of the way to drilling and re-tapping.

Yes I still have it available if it's the right one for you. That being said, considering the labor involved to replace a waterpump on your car, I wouldn't put less than new in your car. Do it the next time you replace the timing belts.

Unfortunately, I've heard things also and they weren't good. I also have never used them.

I second qman's comments; you can't find a better local shop. http://www.smart-service.com/

I'll post a pic this evening.

I was lucky enough to get mine on ebay.

Normally it's not needed but some bearing/axle combos are pretty tight and this just makes the job much easier.

Too late for a floor pit.

Sorry to you all; I finally found it (as you can tell I'm cleaning up my garage). It was hidden away somewhere where I never would have put it. Must have been my wife.

Vibration while accelerating which goes away immediately when you lift off the gas and coast is almost always a sign of a bad DOJ (inner joint) of the axle. I'm not familiar with it producing a tapping noise.

A while back I lent the special tool for pulling the axle back through the hub to someone local. I'm thinking of doing some axle work on the Brat and it would be nice to have it back. So will the person who has it be kind enough to bring it back. Thanks.

If it's AWD yes it is; I was thinking of the 4WD cars when I did this since I went through this with my old GL wagon. Not sure how well this works with AWD since there's more mass involved with spinning the wheel.

Come April 1st, it's a $400 fine if caught.

Check the castle nut for tightness; not uncommon for them to loosen up and cause the rumble; quick and easy check to do.

An easy way is to jack up the front end with the car in neutral and the handbrake off. Put your hand on the spring in the strut and spin the tire by hand. You'll feel the vibration of a bad bearing in the spring long before you feel any wobble using the other methods. The same method can be used on the back wheels although there's more mass involved in the rear drivetrain. If you find a bad bearing in the front, do them both; if you don't, you'll be doing the other shortly anyway. Also check to be sure the castle nut is tight; it makes the same noise as a bad wheel bearing.

You'll be a buy gal getting it ready for June. I'm so glad you are both okay.

Sounds like an easy way to throw a stud through the gas tank or into something else nasty.

Speaking of harmonic humm; make sure you work out a way to attach the exhaust in the center as with the old 4 speed. I had just put a rubber hanger in the center on mine at first and the exhaust would resonate loudly around 2800 to 3200 rpm (cruising speed on the highway); my wife found the noise very annoying. When I finally fabbed a solid support in the center where it belonged, that resonance was finally eliminated.