Dickensheets

nevermind

I got the pic into the photo section of this board, but can't put it here.....in my post any ideas, I'm slow. rd

My 97 does well. Try to avoid windy dry days - sand will get into all the places it shouldn't. A wet or rainy day is best. Also stay around 10-15mph. If you park for lunch or something, put the tail into the wind if there is any. If the sand is soft and dry park on a hill to aid in starting, this will save your clutch or tranny. Sand is bad stuff, but fun. rd

An air bubble in the system, and a collapsed hose could cause this. I would use the bleeder screw on top of the rad to vent any air and bounce on the bumper as you do this. If there is no screw remove the cap and try that. Engine running while you do this. Also check the lower hose for a kink or collapse which is a sign of air in the system. rd

did you disconnect the battery recently? If so, turn the ignition to "on" (not start), disconnect the neg terminal and reconnect after a minute with the key still in the on position. rd

Crack the cam nuts with the old belt on. rd

Inspect the vacuum line that runs to the booster. Check for cracks and overall condition, replace as needed. Inspect booster for damage. With foot on the brake, start engine. Pedal should move forward. rd

I say better safe than sorry. Remember that the turbo takes hot exhaust air, compresses it making it even hotter. The turbo gets stupid hot!!! Spool down time allows the unit to cool slowly with oil flowing. Shutting off right away after hard driving allows the turbo to bake in stagnant conditions and possibly cooking the oil and itsself. Instead of letting it sit, try driving the last mile of your trip like a granny - same result. rd

1) Leaking cam seal $7. 2) Leaking water pump possibly or rad hose. $70. 3) Change air filter ASAP. $12. 4) Not hurtin anything. Neither leak are deadly serious but I would CLOSELY monitor the coolant level to verify leaking water pump. Don't chance an overheat, it could ruin your whole day. I would idle the car until it's up to temp, and see if you can see dripping coolant from the pump housing (greenish stuff). They typically drip or make noise before failing. Both items require t-belt removal so get a new one of those while you are at it.

Look for a "pick a part" junk yard and find an ECM. Just a thought. rd

Have you fiddled with the air filter recently?

Do a filter only change if it helps you sleep.

If you haven't done it already replace the coolant. A good way to drain is to pull the thermostat housing, for filling go through the top rad hose. Do a search of forum for more exact procedure. ryan

I don't. But I fail to see how it would hurt.

What driving conditions? How long have you owned the car? Has any maint been done recently? Any leaks in the driveway? Start with coolant level and expansion tank. Radiator should be full. Color should be a dull green or yellow. Oil or gunk is a bad sign. Next try to duplicate problem. A thermostat is a cheap trick at this point so get one and swap it in. report back

A torque wrench is a must for many things, particularly aluminum (like your engine). Your brakes are steel but not a bad idea to toruqe them. My 97 Legacy: front lock pin=25-33 ftlb rear lock pin=144-204 INCHlbs rd

behind the intake manifold should be a plastic cap covering a hole in the rear of the engine. Remove cap and insert pry bar to hold engine from rotating then tighten crank bolt.

A few years ago my Mazda p/u was overheating consistently on hot days. My radiator was in poor shape (after 12 years of living on the coast of calif, and Puerto Rico). I bought a new rad at autozone and put it in. Problem fixed. Moral of story is this: eliminate cheap fixes first. Try a newer rad and report back.

The symptoms sound legit. A new radiator may or may not be needed. Get a 2nd and 3rd opinion on the radiator. Monitor the temp and coolant closely while you drive. Extended periods in the red zone will warp your engine. Carry extra coolant with you until you get this fixed. Do the timing belt since it comes off now anyway. Water pump too if the miles are higher than 100k. Expect to pay btwn $500-$1000.

I guess the question that I now have is this: which models had or have LSD rears as standard equipment. Does ANDYJO'S Imp have it? Please be patient with the slow kid. rd

Well it's an automatic, and I'm thinking of adding it to the rear diff. I will google it. rd ps - This came about after spinning the left front and right rear in the mud. Almost got stuck in my driveway!! It was a wierd angle and in reverse though, and me not being on the outside of the car when it happened to see exactly what occurred with the wheel spin. I tapped the brake and felt some kind of traction surge. Not sure what really went on here, but lifted the rear of the car afterwards and spun the right rear wheel. The left one didn't spin (open diff).

Does anyone make a LSD or locker for new gen soobs? rd

That's cool to have. Do you have a stock obw? Does anyone know what model year they put LSD on the rear of these things. Ryan

A week or so ago someone here said they had a mech lift their car and turn the back wheels by hand, and they went the same direction (LSD). Well I put mine on jack stands today and ........... .....no LSD. I was bummed even though I would have been suprised to find out otherwise. Ryan edit: i said opposite in the first post but meant "same" direction.

Would that be US299? One of THE best winter soob roads on the planet. rd