joostvdw

yeah, I'm totally bummed right now, been working on this for 4 days straight and I can't think of anything that could be wrong, I measured everything a dozen times and it still looks like a problem in the body harnass (which I replaced with 2 straight wires) I will have a look at the part number, but after dinner, so check back later

alright, I replaced the wires going from the malfunctioning injector back to the ECU, all of them, from the front to the back, it was a terrible nightmare to strip the entire interior to route the cables somewhat besides the original wire loom, soldering upside down in the trunk, a lot of swearing and cursing and you know what? it still doesn't run properly. sometimes 3 cilinders, sometimes 4, and just now, it didn't even start (trying to run on 1)

yeah, I noticed that but cash is not really the problem, I'm just sick and tired of replacing the gaskets every month

The bubbling sound is easy, that's your coolant being cooked inside your HOT turbo, nothing to worry about, but it does tell you that your turbo was actually too hot to turn off, when you're going to shut down the car, let the car idle for a minute or 2, especially if you've been driving it hard around the block this way your turbo will cool down, your oil won't cook inside the turbo, the coolant will not boil and everybody is happy the sucking noise I can't place, can you take pictures of the offending parts? that would really help me/us to determine the cause.

I have no cat, the manifold/uppipe is stock, with all new gaskets and resurfaced flanges, after the turbo it's 2,5 inch RVS all the way back with 1 highflow muffler at the end, so I would think there is 0,001 resistance/back-pressure

time for a update.. It's leaking again! At the same gasket! grrr , this is really starting to piss me off, I now have, new subaru gaskets, new exhaust studs and nuts, every surface flattened, and it still leaks

so, I'm a little further now, I ran a long wire directly from the ECU to the main engine harnass connector (the big one) and that fixed 1 injector, I then made a small jumper wire out of 2 needles and a length of normal gauge wire, connected the not working injector to his partner on the other side and voila 4 cilinders I'm probably going to run completely new wires, front to back, with new connectors on the injectors, so that I don't have to cut anything and check if that fixes my problem only thing is, where to get these connectors? anyone know of cars that use the same injector connector? I guess maybe a nissan?

thanks, I got them! with the help from john and daeron here, I managed to locate the problem to a faulty wire somewhere between the engine harnass and the ECU, the problem is however that I can't find a plug a long the way, so I don't know exactly where the problem is and replacing the whole wire is, well, a bit "uncivilized"...

daeron, I pm'ed you john, thanks a lot! this info will really help, I'll check in the afternoon and bring back results (I hope anyway..)

yeah I know, IF I had a wiring diagram, I would be able to check continuity, but the only diagram I have is from a USA non-turbo mpfi, so that won't work. I have checked the dropping resistor, measured some, but none the wiser. I still think I'm missing something silly, a wire just doesn't snap overnight... and I have NO other electrical problems and no corrosion what soever, so this particular wire, on it's own, causing trouble is unlikely but probable at the same time

nope, no CEL I'm at a loss at the moment, apparently my car decided over night to disconnect the injectors or something the good part about this is that after rummaging through all those wires my central locking system and car alarm fixed it self :-p

I have spark at all four, all four injectors work fine but there is something wrong with the signal I used a multimeter at the resistor block and measured 1 injector pair slightly over 1V and the other injector pair slightly under 1V, the wires to and from the resistor block seem to be oke, zero resistance, resistor block itself also gives resistance (6 and 12ohms or something, not shorted out anyway) it seems to me that there is a problem somewhere between the resistorblock and the injectors? oh and no, I can't swap anything

thanks for the response, I'll go check the engine harnass, see if there is a short in there somewhere if this model has a dropping resistor, where should this be located? and is there any way to check the CAS (crank angle sensor right?)? If you could post where the connectors are and which wire in this connector is from the injector that would be a great help! then I can locate the short somewhat.

I don't think so, but I do have a digital multimeter, that should work I guess but the main thing is, where do I begin? and what could have caused it to die overnight? is there some fuse for the injectors? maybe a resistor or whatever burned out? testing all the wireing for the injectors from the front to the back (ECU is in the trunk of course) will be a huge task and without a schematic it is going to be even harder.

no, that's not the case, my bad, I said "distribution is right on" but I meant timing belts (distributieriem is dutch for timingbelt...) any way, I found out it only runs on the rear cilinders, the ones facing the front got spark, but they won't fire, so I guess there is no fuel (or injectors don't work) are the injectors fired batch or single? and if they're batch, in what combination? edit: yeah it's definately in the injectors, 2 out of 4 are not fireing, but if I switch connectors, the other 2 are fireing, so it's not the injectors themselves who are busted, it's something in the wireing, where to begin

I need help, and quickly too, my only and very needed daily driver has quit on me... it drove fine yesterday, something broke overnight, I have no clue what has happened, I have no other electrical problems or oxidation on ANY plug, so it's not something you would expect. it's a 1988 XT turbo, MPFI, spider intake, FT4WD 5MT, stock edit: here's a update, I have found the main problem, the 4 injectors fire 2 by 2, and 1 pair isn't firing, the injectors are fine, there is no signal, I have no pinout's or FSM for my car, so any help on how (and especially where!) to check the wires is appreciated!

just make sure you spell you expensive looking words right next time you do have a good point however, it IS a great juxtaposition :-p

sorry, dubble post, look over there ^^

the 120watts figure comes from me since I couldn't measure the resistor coils I did some math, if you want to cut up the 12V into 4 speeds, you will need 3 resistors, one sinking 3V, one sinking 6V and one sinking 9V, if you calculate the resistance needed with the amps the motor is drawing, you get .25ohm, .45ohm and .675ohm, then if you multiply the Voltage going over the resistor and the Amps going through them, you get 120W for the biggest resistor and 20W for the smallest. maybe my calculations are wrong? or maybe you misunderstood? my electrical skills are a bit rusty :-p

sweden waaay to cold for me, hehe riverstream, your brat sure does look nice! and like everybody else said, that paint scheme rocks!

I totally agree, and that's exactly why it needs such low resistance, and why the resistors should sink those massive amounts of heat, because the motor pulls 13 amps! and that's the reason subaru made the resistors out of coil wire, they can take the heat. so bgd, if your tiny resistors work, they will only work for a short period of time and the motor will be turning at way less RPM than it should

please do, as I am looking forward to it the E-manage doesn't look/sound very expensive and I really like the fact that it is from a dependable manufacturer instead of MS which you have to build yourself (please, no MS discussions!)

the not stock engine management you mention is the E-manage right? on which you have a mighty big thread :-p

I have been digging around a bit today and fixing them by yourself is going to be a hassle, the resistors have to be huge and expensive to make sure they can take the heat, because they wil have to dissipate 40W, 80W and a whopping 120W heat to turn the motor at the correct RPM :-\ you could settle for something smaller, because they're actively cooled, but still, HUGE I'm going to order a new resistor pack from the dealer, only 33 euro's

finally, a answer! the 0-200ohm scale simply means it can measure from 0 til 200ohms in that position, so the values you measured, the .3 .6 and .9 or something are .3 ohm, .6 ohm and .9 ohm that would add up, because the blower motor is 12V 140W or something, so to turn it at 1/4 power, you have to dissipate 35W in heat + it runs at more than 10amps, so the resistance has to be low to sink that amount of power, those resistors have to be HUGE. I think the only way to do this, is to link them parallel (that way you'll also get the correct, very low resistance you/we need) and put them upright, in the cool intake air, or perhaps with a cooling block, I wouldn't be surprised if they would catch fire if you don't cool them.. anyway, the values seem correct, and tomorrow, on my last day of vacation, I am going to give it a try. wish me luck.