joostvdw

I've decided what to do I'm going to cut out the bad sections and rivet in a new piece of aluminum, the reason I'm not going to weld (or make a targa or convertible) is because my car is too original and well maintained to destroy, and I'm not in the posession of the correct tools. I'll keep you updated as I go along, as of now, I have the new piece of alu strip I'm going to use and new drainerhose:)

I also posted this on XT6.net, but since this is a more general question, I thought you guys could help me as well: apparently, Hollands salty and very wet climate isn't very good for my moonroof, previous owners glued the whole roof shut so it won't leak, but that didn't stop it from rusting :cry: after peeling away many layers of epoxy and sealent, here are some pics it took today... top left view top right view inside another inside shot right rear corner as you can see, there are holes everywhere and the roofsupports at the front (thank god there plastic) don't have any support left. I really want to fix this, because the moonroof is one of the main aspects of this car, sealing it shut is NOT an option the hole in the rear corner can be repaired with some fibreglass, thats not what I'm worried about the front corners, with the supports worry me, I can't just put on some fibreglass there, it would rupture and snap under the changing pressures and deforming of the body under cornering the other option is cutting out the whole segment which is rotten away and replace (and weld) a new piece in, this of course would take A LOT of effort and time and I'm not that keen on welding 2cm from the nice layer of paint on my roof... so, who has some experience in this, or has any good ideas? I actually need my car now and with this leaky roof and stormy weather, that's not going to work...

but where do you connect the lines for the cooler? I thought maybe a oilfilter adaptor or something? but I don't know which brand/type...

subaru's are really easy to work with and are a great learning horse, everything is built like LEGO and easy to reach just take your time, don't stress it, replacing the headgaskets on my car took me 2 weeks the first time, and there is nothing wrong with that, everybody has to learn one way or another and, if everything fails and you don't know where to go from, there is a very big forum, with loads of knowledge and friendly people ready to help you out

damn skip, that looks like star trek from the 80s what is it that you have crammed in there? I can see the fluke meter, some gauges for temps and soforth, but what is the oscilloscoop like window? and what's up with the targeting visor besides it I wonder where the button "fasers" is

some JDM xt's had ABS, I've read about it in a article a while ago. but USDM and EDM never had ABS.

suit yourself, I know the back mufflers are restrictive, and the increase is not only in my mind. OEM pipes are restrictive so a better flowing slightly bigger pipe is worth a try, especially when your old pipe is rusted away like mine... I am talking about a EA82T eh?

the first major draw on the stock system is the back muffler, replace it with a open type and you'll get a nicer sound and a bit more "oumpf" because that stock bastard is way to restrictive if you've done that and want more, replace from the cat back with 2 1/4 inch, with, if you still want more, you need custom headers and a hi flow cat, mucho $ but you'll notice the difference (especially the cat, they're less restrictive than normal "coated brick" cats )

damn that thing is going to be badass I really want to see some pics of the O-ringed headgaskets! and maybe a write up on how to install the fuel system? think lots of people are interested... at least I am :-p

I'm no expert, but on a EA82T, 2,5' is a nice diameter, if you go bigger, topend may increase slightly, but low-end will suffer dramatically, not something you want on a streetmachine and I've heard that for the manifold, the 2 pipes should have the same amount of cc as the cilinders behind it, so for the EA82T, the pipes should be 900cc not sure about this, but it is something to look into..

are you sure it's not something simple, like the 2 bolts holding the steering column have come loose? If you want to check, just follow the steering column to about halfway down and look under the dash, you will see a strip of metal and 2 bolts holding it in place. I guess a mechanic would have already looked there, but sometimes it's the simple stupid things that you forget and can cause a lots of trouble...

thanks for the info/help but I did mention I have a MPFI XT turbo, so no carbs, FI I still hope someone has any ideas, because it is annoying the hell out of me, it's also a lot more noticeble when it's cold, dunno if that matters, but hey...

has this ever been solved? because I have a very similar problem, on my MPFI XT turbo and was hoping someone had a clue..

yeah, anything sturdy enough that it won't bend or break, and is the correct size will work, a nail with the pointy bit cut off would work okay I guess

and springs to be safe to rev to 8 there's your answer I think the crank and bearings and so forth can take the 8k, but I think you will run into some unsuspected problems, like cambelts ripping apart, disty's blowing up, they were never designed for 8k, and thus are not as balanced as the crank is (not that THAT is designed for 8k, but a hell of a lot more balanced than a rotor)

your exhaust gasses wil come out in a steady stream of air instead of regular puffs,

I'm about to spend 600 euro's on a 2,5 inch RVS from the turbo back free flow exhaust:banana: (this is including mufflers, flanges, all the welding, etc.) It's for my XT turbo

my XT Turbo has exactly 80k miles on it now (engine and body) or 128k km, wichever way you like it

another option would be installing a TD04 turbo from a impreza it will give you more power in higher rpm's, and it needs some modification, but it's a good alternative if rebuilding or bying a used/new one isn't a option.

on pages 23 and 24 it states some mods to the intake I understand the removal of the so called "snorkel" but what is this part about the intake boot mod? I know wich part they mean, the protruding piece of plastic, but what to do with it? who knows?

If you want to check for a vacuum leak, pull a vacuum line, if the engine stalls or runs worse, you don't have a vacuum leak (in fact, you just created one) of the engine runs without any difference, you have a vacuum leak

is the wiring already there in a XT Turbo? So i could just plug and play this unit? or does it have to have a digidash?

yeah, getting someone to mail me the parts would be an option, but that's expensive and I'm almost there... but maybe for the last few bits and pieces it's neccesary... I'll buy the shocks and springs first, then if I need something I'll go look for someone to send me the missing pieces

I can only buy the parts separate and even that is going to be difficult but do-able okay, so I'm going for the XT FWD shocks, only thing left to know now is the spring dimension for the front. I will have to have the spring top mount made by a friend of mine on a lathe because I can't get them as separte parts and complete struts are a no go. btw, I'm the same joost you replied to on the XT6 board, I was just increasing my input by using 2 different boards, thanks for both answers nonetheless!

when the heater core is burbling, is it properly de-aired? or what you might call it... turn the heater full on hot, blower full on, leave the car running for about 15min, then let it cool, and refill radiator and kvs bottle, then you'll be sure there's no more air in the system