joostvdw

doesn't sound to hard, but in that case, it won't cost me that much better leave it to the pro's, thanks for the advice, I'll just ease the throttle for the time being.

and it didn't go lean? I thought that was the main problem, injectors maxing out and no easy/cheap way of controlling bigger ones.

darn it! One question remains, why didn't it do this earlier? And for the porting is this something I should pay someone to do? or can I do it myself? (how?)

I have that exact setup and I highly doubt I have 160chp, was that with or without IC? stock manifold/uppipe?

no that is crank HP, the EDM have stock ~136chp and the USDM have ~115chp you should read the threads of WJM (will) he has done a lots of research and even had some succes (there are more people who have done the same, calebz, boostedballs for instance, there is loads to read)

in europe the EA82T delivered stock 136hp, with a bigger exhaust and some small intake mods, you can easily get 140hp the main difference between EDM and USDM is the boost pressure (there may be more), mines set at 0,6/0,7 bar while yours is at 0,4/0,5 so upping the boost and adding an intercooler will net you some ponies

I swapped the tranny yesterday, so I had to remove the exhaust anyway, so I had a look at the wastegate, and it looks alright to me... what do you guys think about an external wastegate? this should solve my problem right?

sorry thought I would get more response here since you guys are more 6 oriented, but 1 moment, I'll copy it to xt6.net ... vacuum leak, yeah, could be, but I highly doubt it since the wastegate would work like a charm if my right foot wasn't so darn heavy (in other words, the boost "sticks" at 0,6 bar, so the regulator function works, unless I step on it.)

I have a stock EA82T with a open 2,5 inch exhaust from the turbo back and since about a week, I have been experiencing boost creep in all but first gear. it rises to about 0,6 bar, stays there for a while (that's normal pressure) and if I keep it floored it will rise again to about 0,9 bar (I let off, thought that was enough without IC) so what's the deal? i've been driving around with this exhaust for month without a problem, so that can't be it, if the actuator is broken I don't think it would chill at 0,6 bar, so I guess that's oke too? please help me, I tired of constantly monitoring my boost gauge...

congrats on the job well done! as for the "farting" of your engine, the oil pump cannot cause this, so it must be something you did (didn't) when you removed the accesories around it first off I would check the timing belts, they're easy to install wrong and will give you loads of mystery troubles, also clean you carb, some dirt may have gotten into it while working around it. the whistling sound may be air trapped in you cooling system, are you sure it is fully bled?

yes ofcourse that is your main source, but the subaru dealers here didn't have them in stock and anything older then a legacy sounds like mumbo jumbo to them, so I kinda figured it out on my own. I don't know which model toyota has them, I guess they all do, I just asked for M10x1.25 exhaust studs and they worked like a charm. You might want to bring an old nut with you though, to make sure you have the proper studs.

if someone is really only into the CF for the looks, you could get your hood painted or even stickered with a CF look.

that foglight is just a rear foglight, so that on coming traffic can see you in the fog, not for reversing and yeah, that's probably the same thing I would do, wire in a seperate foglight under the bumper or something, but to be honest, I would keep this configuration.

I've had to replace some studs in the turbo and in the heads a while ago and got all the hardware from a toyota dealer, apparently they use the same threads as subaru (M10x1.25) those nuts where of the self-locking type with the little bumps on them, just like the originals.

awesome man! I'm really glad everything worked out for you, since you were all bummed out before it's good to see you happy again have you had time to enjoy your work and drive around in it? without worrying about topping off the coolant ? If you haven't driven it, go do it now, it's the most enjoyable fase of working on your own car, driving around in it knowing it's YOU who fixed it.

I don't know how easy they are to come by in the US, but renault 5 turbo's also have blow through carbs and with some work (manifold mostly) you can make it work on any car suck through is also an option, added benefit is the petrol cooling the compressor, I don't think an IC would work properly (petrol condensing and stuff) then, so high boosts are a no no. If you are going SPFI (which to me is the simplest/best option) you might want to consider running a second injector, or maybe a second TB+injector oh and definately get a wideband O2 sensor/boost gauge/oil temp gauge,

I hope it's saki then

can't you just measure it and buy the tool? It will save you a lot of hassle and you'll thank me afterwards proper tools is half the work!

you have to look at the angle of the LED's, because some a meant to project a beam pattern (so when you mount them in your dash, you'll get very well lit spots ) and some have a wider angle and are more to illuminate an area. I have a gauge cluster laying around here, with the green tint, and I'll take some pictures of it tomorrow I'm also going to try different chemicals to see if I can get the green off, but not the black oh and if I may, I have a '88 XT 5MT, but the cluster is amber colored, what's the deal? just change the bulbs and the color changes? or is there a snag?

can't you cut off the filler neck and have a shop weld it back somewhere? perhaps halfway the sidetanks, maybe at an angle, doesn't really matter, altough it does make burping the system a bit harder :-p edit: Owh, I forgot something important... Awesome work!

probably for driveability, for most turbo cars, stock cams are the best, you can get "Hotter" cams for it, but you'll need every little bit of torque you can get out of the cams to overcome the turbo lag torque cams on the other hand don't breathe enough top-end, so midway is best, and those are the stockers :wink:

someone did, I remember a awesome sedan with O-ringed turbo block, but the main thing keeping people from doing it is money I guess, as is with a lot of things @ steveman09: awesome job, extremely jealous of your work and dedication, I may have to copy your work some time

I used castrol gtx magnatec on my latest oil change (because I could get it cheap-ish) and I hate it, never heard the lifters before and since the new oil it will tick when cold, and even tick some at low rpm's hot, so definately bad for the lifters mkay? no more gtx/magnatec for me

most likely is a massive oil consumption, since the the bearings are oil lubricated and if the bearings are so far gone that the shaft can be moved about, oil will get between it and into the compressor/exhaust housing other then that, if your compressor wheel collapses (not very likely) the scrap metal will get into your engine, but I highly doubt that ever happening. oh and it would run like crap, because the ECU thinks there is a turbo but there isn't

that's not the way to think, I know it may look bad now, you just have to hang in there for a bit, you've had good times, they'll come back if I weren't half the world away I would come help you, but I don't think either of us can afford the ticket now