joostvdw

I don't know if this is EA81 or EA82 but when I bought a TO bearing at the dealer for my XT it came with the bearing holder if you do order one, also order 2 of those retaining clips, they cost near to nothing and you don't want to tear it all apart because you saved $0.02 and the old clip broke

tell them they should've used thick german steel instead of the tin can steel those japanese got

a ratcheting 10mm is really handy if you want to do HG in the car

the stumble you encounter sounds a lot like what my XT did at first, drivers side timing belt was off about 3 tooths so please check that first, you sound like you know enough about ea82s to do this right, but everybody makes stupid mistakes and it took me 3 months to figure it out....

sorry if I misread it, but you meant 200 for shipping only right? not for shipping + motor?! that would be a steal if you're going to replace the TO bearing, also replace the pilot bearing, if that hasn't been replaced by CCR (guess not because I don't see a flywheel) it's cheap and easy to do and it makes a terrible noise if it fails

I don't know the correct terminology but here goes, the part of the EA trailing arm where the wheel bearing sits in, is too long/wide, if you try to mount the EJ rear brake, everything wil fit reasonably well, except for the axle, the piece of the axle that goes through the bearing and grabs into the disc-holder-thing (with the tooths on the inside) is too short so for it to fit, you would need a longer axle (custom made?) or machine the trailing arm thinner, another option is just installing the complete rear suspension of a EJ car, but I don't know how hard that is

like rob said, probably somebody took it for a joyride or a place to sleep in either way, look around fairly close to where it was stolen, odds are you'll find it in some bushes or under a bridge or something stupid, think like a crackhead and you might find it :-p

wow, I never knew EA82s were so asymmetrical :-\ nothing seems straight :-p looks good though, this is a turbo block right? for in the RX? (anxiously waiting next to it )

the problem is not that the space between the engine and crossmember is too small, but you have to rotate the crossover/header/uppipe to manouvre it through that space, in order to rotate the crossover pipe you either need it on a lift or jack it up way high.

as you can read on xt6.net the main problem is that the axle is too short, the wheel bearing of the EJ series car is smaller than the wheel bearing of the EA series car. just installing the shorter bearing won't work, because the outer DOJ (it's called that right?) runs against the trailing arm. I've been thinking abou this for waaay too long and can't find a solution... friend of mine also found out that a VW golf IV has 5x100 stud pattern and almost the same disc but without the e-brake assembly, not sure this will fit, but he's trying :-p plan is to run front L2 calipers in the rear, big enough and e-brake.

matty b got I think a EJ20 in his wonderbrumby, maybe you're referring to him? look in the retrofitting forum.

you're getting pulled over for having your headlights on but not your running lights :-\ that's odd other than that, the running lights should come on with your headlights, if you're really desperate you could run a relay to the running lights and use the headlights as a signal for the relay, but not after you've done the test and advices to come :-p

another easy way to check for headgasket failure is to remove the sparkplugs and shine with a torch through the plug hole, line up the piston so you can see it, check all four pistons this way, if the piston is clean, the gasket leaks at that cilinder, if the piston is blackened and has carbon build-up, and if there is no pressure buildup in the cooling system (overflowing overflow tank ) your gaskets are fine.

you won't need a custom manifold, any ej20t manifold will fit (or with minor modifications)

160hp? I don't know what ej20tt you're talking about but 260hp sounds more reasonable fitting it is a pita, because the second turbo takes up the same space as the brake master cilinder and steering column, so unless you can live without those two it won't be a straight forward swap.

something I did, something that might not be 100% safe is putting the original scissor style subaru jack on a tile (to lift it about 1 inche) and then jack it all the way up (this is real high!) I then got enough room to snake the uppipe up and over the crossmember. if you can do it any other way, please do, as my method puts the car very high and even with jackstand under it, it's still not the best/safest way to do it, but it does work.

something else to add, if the central diff lock hasn't been used for a while, it might be somewhat hard to engage and may not engage at all if not driving perfectly straight lubing the cable is also a good thing

or you can make your own with 3 bolts and a piece of metal! that's what I did and it works like a charm, you just have to push and turn and voila. Oh and about the seal around the piston, that's somewhat important so be sure to replace it.

I have the same "flutter" of what you might call it, but I have no O2 sensor so I guess that is not the real reason why it behaves like this (I have a non-smog controlled EDM version, no cats, no O2, etc.)

ea82 rear springs will fit almost any shock, because they are the same diameter as a lot of coil-over sets

After a quick trip to the local junkyard, I've confirmed that BMW E30 springs fit on the front shocks of EA82, the unsprung BMW springs are about 30mm longer, so you'll have to order lowering springs, spring rate should be somewhat right, try to get 325/320 springs (they are stronger because of the 6 cilinder) I've read this on a Finnish board and had a Finnish board member here translate it for me, I don't remember who it was (sorry :-\) but he and the other Finnish guy get all the credit!

any updates on this? already have the ej251 in? (that's the 2,5 liter turbo right?)

does the injector open? you can put a long screwdriver with the tip on the injector and listen at the handle when someone cranks (look out for spinning parts and long hair, been there done that, and it hurts ) it should CLICK noticeble

this looks like the "amsterdam-dakar" rally we have here, buy a car and desert prep it for under 500 euro's and drive it from amsterdam to dakar I already agreed with my brother if we ever get the time/money to do this, we're getting a subaru :cool:

I don't have these yet, but someone offered me them for a very reasonable price, I might just be tempted 14'' btw