joostvdw

a tranny whine in first gear is nothing to worry about, the first gear is straight toothed instead of helical, this is why it whines why is it straight toothed I hear you ask? well, straight toothed gears are stronger then helical toothed gears, and there is nothing wrong with a stronger first gear

my understanding is that torsion bars don't "weaken" over time, they just break. you can check this by removing the shock and see if you can move the trailing arm without much resistance, if you can, it's shot re-clocking the torsionbar is not that difficult to do, it's just that everything will be severely rotten/rusted in place so that will make it somewhat "interesting" :-p goodluck!

it would fit on the same transmission adaptor plate and it would fit on the same engine mounts, but wiring, exhaust and probably the radiator would need to be replaced/remade.

6k? I always thought rotarys were so high revving?

I believe daeron posted a write up not so long ago on how to check the TPS, it may be in the USRM but I don't know, otherwise use the search. it boils down to measureing the TPS with a analog resistance meter and checking for irregularities in the sensor

if you want the 3.7 ratio gears, you can swap the internals of the tranny and rear diff, or use the tranny and rear diff out of a manual turbo car (any EA82T cars will do, turbo XT's are also fine)

if you have acces to a lathe and some tools this is actually quite easy to built, downside is, it will lift the suspension by atleast 60mm

they prevent the control arm from moving forward and backwards, 1 simple bolt through the subframe is not going to hold the control arm in place when you release all of 80hp :-p heim joints, mmm, yes, I can see that working, I just don't know how strong they are, but in theory they should work.

the ea82t does not per definition "suck" some people just have a lemon or bad luck, I've been driving my xt turbo for over 20.000kms without a single engine problem (loads of other problems, but no ea82t gremlims) as for your problem, find where the oil is coming from, it may be your PCV system sucking oil into the intake, so check/clean/replace the PCV valve

the EGR valve itself bolts onto the spider intake, on the drivers side runner towards the firewall.

although I have a MPFI turbo, I'm still sticking around to see if you solve it, because I have the same annoying problem. Sadly I'm of no further help for you, I know sqat about carbs

have you checked the wires going to the sensor, in other words, the harnass? I know that most problems with this temperature sensor are connection related and not the sensor itself going bad. Also check a few inches of wire "behind" the connector, this could also be corroded.

the only thing I can find out of the ordinairy is a mitsu amongst subarus, or atleast, that's what it looks like to me top to bottom fifth line, second from the left, in the desert.

if you're used to low-revving engines I can see why it freaks you out, but these engines love to rev and can turn 5k all day long witout a hitch in fact, if I drive 130kmh it's turning over at 3300rpm and boosting, if I drive 150kmh it revs to 4200rpm and doesn't have to use the turbo, so we can see here that the engine is actually more efficient at 4200 rpm then at 3300rpm, so higher revs are not necessarily going to kill your mileage

just cut out the fender and rivet some wider fenders on :cool: just like the lancia delta integrale

it could very well be the radiator that's leaking internally, as the auto trannys are cooled through the radiator. check the transmission fluid level and check the state of the radiator.

the auto on demand was probably a 3at and they suck, the auto AWD tranny was 4EAT.

I want to install a oil temp sensor in the redundant hole in my oil pump, at the moment there is a bolt with a square head in it (in place of the oil press. dummy light, I have a oil pressure gauge) question is, what thread size is this? It would be great if it's the same as the oil temp sensor I have but highly unlikely, so I want to know forehand what size it is so if necessary I can make an adaptor. Oh and how deep is this hole? The new sensor is quite long.... thanks

please try again he says a 3-door with canvas top, so that's a coupe, not a loyale.

nobody knows for sure, but as far as I can tell, the EDM engine boosts higher (0,7bar) and the ECU is adjusted to work properly at this boost level, also it has no cats and no O2 sensor so fewer power draining emissions crap.

please use the search, this has been covered many many times before, including a full parts list it's not very difficult, but good luck anyway

the basics could very well be the same, but, intake and exhaust are very different, the heads may be the same, internals may also be the same, but the main casing is very different. all in all, probably based on a justy, but definately not the same.

a bad coil will give you a rich situation because the plugs don't clean themselves. fix the coil first and then check for the other problems some simple things to check, wiring to and from the MAF and CTS, just wiggle the wiring loom, if the idle changes, you've found your problem. run the car at night, see if sparks fly between plug cables. no vacuum leaks? timing belts installed correctly?

you guys are right, I hadn't thought about the weight issue, I was thinking about impreza's and four wheel drifts can even be done in a stock XT turbo, that's no biggie (mind you, EDM, so 140chp) loosing traction as in, standing still smoking all fours, that's what we're talking about good job (eventhough it was on skinny 13's)

I drove one once, hellish experience :-p the suspension is amazingly weak, the pedals are tiny and move on a vertical line (instead of diagonally) if you kick your feet forward you'll kick a dent in the hood (which can't be opened) engine is a pita to work on, can't reach anything and it looks like a justy engine but it's not! they share the same configuration, but no parts. but, besides all that, I would love to own one :cool: