joostvdw

it IS looking really good indeed, good job One thing has me puzzled though, this boost solinoid is constantly opening and closing right? don't you think this will fail shortly if you keep running it like this? it was not designed to work like this for prolonged periods right?

Ah, well it's nice to know you're destroying perfectly good trannys someone else would kill for you've proven your point that they are not strong enough for the EJ22, don't think it's time to stop it?

This is off roading it I assume? Because otherwise you are doing something terribly wrong as the EDM EA82T had 136hp stock and the drivetrain is holding up just fine on mine (which has maybe a little more than 136), alas this is de AWD tranny with difflock, but the gears and synchro's are the same as the DR (arent' they?)

what about chemically treating the body? this should get rid of the rust and you will be able to see how much metal can be saved and what you've got to work with. looks like a tremendous amount of work to do, but it can be done, so it's good to hear you're sticking with it

I don't think pure air flows very different from an air/fuel mixture, so I don't think a new manifold would gain anything

different length axles is no problem, almost all cars with transverse mounted engines have them.

I wouldn't do that, the change of getting metal shavings and debris from drilling inside the engine is very large, even with some sort of debris sucker (read vacuum cleaner) you won't be able to suck up everything Maybe you could use the dipstick hole as a main crank case vent?

I once saw a pic flying by here of an older yellow roo (don't know which type) with slicks, roll cage and a compressor with dual carbs that thing rocked

It's not how high the compression is (of course, till a certain level) but it's more the difference between the cilinders, a big difference means trouble, sounds like you got that covered though, but I wanted to mention it. Where did you get the spark plug firing order from? Some manuals give erroneous data, you should search here on the board for the correct firing order. Also, and I hate to say it, fully re-do your ignition timing, there is proper write-up on how to do this floating around on the board so the search is your friend. Oh and it's not the ignition module, if that's broken, no cilinder will fire. Make sure though the coil and the igniter are grounding properly through the bracket.

sounds good, do you have an wide band sensor to check your fuel injection? It sounds like you may have found a way for us to use bigger injectors (which means more boost more power and all the good stuff ) keep us updated!

I know a handfull of people who use fireblade (from the honda motorbike) carbs on their cars, from jettas to peugeot 205s and they work fine, just be sure to increase the jetting

don't do that, you'll run the risk of snapping off the keys in the lock if you bump into it. Zip-tie it to your handle

sorry, can't help you with the O2 sensor, but I'm interested in your MAF shenanigens :-p You want the MAF to give a lower signal than normal, so you can adjust for the increased flow of the injectors, so why not just mount an variable resistor on the outside of the maf sensor? Or go beserk and use an op-amp with negative amplification With the boost increase, you can just chuck the boost solinoid and use a boost controller, be it manual of AVC-R style. On the other hand, if you're into electronics, why not make your own, just unhook the original boost solinoid so the ECU won't interfere with it.

too bad you guys don't live in europe, I got 136chp stock :-p (and with an open TBE it's more like 140chp) But, back to topic, ripping out the interior and especially all the sound deadening stuff will help definately. Engine wise, increasing exhaust diameter and putting on an IC are simple steps, after that the injection system is just not up to par (you'll run lean very quickly). Only real way of dealing with that is custom injectors and a standalone system, any other way is a bandaid, sadly, this is also the most expensive way.... Good luck and let us now how it works out for you.

Why would one swap from an EZ30 to an EJ25? Only thing I can think of is engine damage or mileage?

Just a minor FYI, in europe some XTs had the O2 in the downpipe and some didn't even have an O2 (and no cat, like mine) but they were never in the uppipe, before or after 87 (we got XTs until 1992) I have no idea about size differences, I would check it out, but I don't know any turbo wagon/coupe here in the netherlands, so, too bad

the XT6s were also available with ABS in japan, one of the very first reports written on the XT6 was based on a JDM one, with ABS. but to be honest, I highly doubt the effectiveness of those systems, as even newer generation systems weren't fool/fail-proof (jabbing the brake caused the wheel to stop turning, ABS thinks you're stationairy and thus doesn't do a thing about it ) so these earlier ones probably aren't much better.

you sir are completely bonkers you should spend the $2k on the sti part, nog the RHD part

ah I see it now, you indeed are a sick man :-p j/k

Is that a positive or negative reply? Either way is fine of course, but I would like to know why so please elaborate.

that's an EA81 for you I think the heat won't kill your ECU, moisture or vibration is going to be the culprit. So sealing the ECU properly and mounting it in rubbers will keep it happier

those are the factory XT ''14 alloys from the EDM and I really like them, they look really good on a brat but even better on a EDM XT, so give em to me

It's good to hear it got you home, but I would advice you to replace the HGs now, they are definately gone by now and coolant in your oil will make short business of your main bearings (if they aren't gone already from overheating) I don't know how easy it is to come by a spare engine where you are, but for some peace of mind you may want to put in another engine, there is a very high possibility this engine will not run properly for very long.

yes you can lower a wagon this way, but you will bottom out easier since the springs are softer, so it's not a really good way to lower it, best to flip the top mount and/or mount coil-overs.

loyales never got the MPFI engine, so you would need the engine harnass from the XT and the ECU from the XT. so no, not as easy as an engine swap, but absolutely doable if you're not afraid of wires if it's worth it, is up to you