joostvdw

Don't you pay attention? :wink: 87+ EDM EA82T doesn't have a O2, mine doesn't either. The screw on the hotwire maf is a set screw for emissions tuning I believe, but it's "tamper proof" which means you'll need a U shaped screwdriver to adust it. It is possible someone turned that up which is causing the engine run rich and thus not run properly. You can also check TPS sensor position, see if it's halfway in it's adjustment, if it's way forward or backwards it will cause the car run terrible.

You've got it exactly the wrong way around In the US it uses the wastegate duty solenoid to increase the boost when you're up high in the mountains. Since we don't have mountains here, there's no use for a boost controller The wastegate is directly plumbed in the intake. Also testing the wastegate action can be done with a large syringe, this easily generates enough pressure to open the wastegate.

You have to realise that if you shave the heads, your valve timing changes since it's a pushrod engine. Haveing a custom cam of custom pushrods made is a must.

I don't know if they are available in the US, but peugeot 306s have dual slimline front mounted fans...

The biggest difference between gasoline and diesel turbo's is the RPM they work on. The ea turbo spools up at about 2500-3000 rpm on a 1800cc, if you put this on your diesel (which has almost the same cc I guess) it would spool way to late to be of any use. If you were to use a turbo from lets say a kei car (600cc) it would spool very quickly, but wouldn't be able to support the air flow at higher RPMs. Turbo diesel engines also operate at higher boost levels, but if you're adding a turbo to a non turbo diesel the lower boost wouldn't be a bad idea

Yes these are pictures of the cracked spare. And they are pretty dang hard to find. As you've found out the bigger R15 turbo was only put on the '87,5+ XT turbo models. And since there were only 33 or so XT's sold here and about 7 left, parts are far and few between, even moreso for the '87,5+ models. I know of only 1 '87,5+ model XT turbo in this country, and that's mine I do happen to know that the ford probe turbo (the rounder later model) has the same RHB5 core as the subarus, so that may have a bigger hot side?

Are the "other" type camshaft with or without the groove cut behind the second lobe? you can barely see it on this picture, but there is a groove behind the second lobe Sorry, these also aren't for sale, I highly doubt it would run without camshafts

I have a spare turbo laying at my parents house, I will be there this weekend so I can take a few more detailed pictures (including the ID pad which I can't see when it's mounted) for you. I'm not going to part with this one sorry. The spare turbo has a cracked exhaust housing so that's no good to you as well. I can take a few pictures while it's mounted in the car, but I don't thing you will learn anything from that, it just looks like a turbo edit: I just remembered, I took some pictures while the engine was out for headgaskets last summer. I can't really read the numbers on the ID tag, but maybe with some photoshopping? edit2: I remembered something else I still have the original picture, which is bigger than the one on photobucket, so I enlarged it and cropped the section with the ID tag

something like this? It's the stock turbo on an EDM '88 XT turbo which is rated at 136hp WITH catalytic converter. My specific car was delivered without the cat and without O2 sensor, so should have something above that rating.

if you are going to bore out or hone the cilinder bores you need to "compress" the block, a sort of head simulator, because the engine case deforms when the heads are mounted. Hone the bores without this plate and it will never seal right.

So I had a look today and the pivot point of the wastegate actuator was rusted solid After a good cleaning and greasing, it behaved again. Driveability has increased and boost stays longer on the 0,8 bars. It still overboosts but not as fast as it was doing the last couple of weeks. For now I'm pleased with it, the ECU will probably also stop bothering me as fuel cut will not be as frequent. When the weather clears (like in the summer) and I don't need it as often as I do now, I'll take it apart, make a bellmouth and port the wastegate. That should do the trick I'm still interested in modifying the MAF so I'll post a picture in the following days, perhaps Presslab can have a look at it? thanks for the help so far!

try jerking the steering wheel I'm betting the switch inside the wheel has come undone ever so slightly which makes the horn blow when you hang on for dear life

I guess the ECU just leans the mixture to cut power? Sounds risky though... I think the biggest factor is cost, I really can't afford a cat or TD04 swap (since I'll need a lot more then just the turbo hardware) but I do have some spare time on my hands. Would a bellmouth solve my problems? edit: sorry, I just asked the same question again Thanks for the help, I will do some extra reading on the subject.

thanks for the replies Sorry Rob, don't have a spare ECU (actually I do but it won't even start with that connected) so I can't swap it out. The EDM models don't have a WGDS, so the wastegate is directly plumbed into the pressure side of the turbo, this tiny hose is new, clean and correctly plumbed. I already swapped turbos once (so also a different wastegate) and both displayed these symptoms. I actually believe the engine just runs "too good" so the wastegate can't cope with all the exhaust gasses (this also explains why it's more noticeable when it's cold). Will fitting an intercooler solve this? Or just increase the flow of air? Are the wastegates easy to port? Can I modify the actuator rod so it opens further? Or maybe a seperate wastegate exhaust pipe (instead of the stock flange/blockoff plate). How about a external wastegate, any good? Man that's a lot of questions

nope, the loyale has trailing arms and the EJ series have multi link suspension. It CAN be done, but it requires a tremendous amount of custom fab work. Your best bet is making hybrid axles.

hi all, I've had this problem before but it has started to bother me. I have a stock EA82T with an open 2,5'' stainless exhaust from the turbo back. I've done headgaskets and every other seal and gasket on it last summer. So I know it's in good condition and I think that's strangely enough part of the problem... The problem is that it overboosts way to easily, it is set on 0,8 bar stock but it get over 1,2bar easily when I floor it in 3 and higer (lower gears are too short). Consequence is that it hits fuel cut and I bash my head against the steering wheel . After a couple of times the ECU learns that it's constantly running out of maps and starts to turn down all the maps, so the effect is that I don't have any power left . For instance, if I floor it in 4th on the highway, boost rises, it overboosts, ECU over compensates so boost (and power) drop again, pressure is safe again, ECU stops over compensating and boost starts to rise again, see where this is going? Power is coming and going in waves accompanied by the occasional fuel cut. And when it's not over compensating, it's still keeping the power low to prevent it from overboosting, which feels like I'm driving through corn-syrup. Summary: How to solve overboost? How to stop fuel cut? How to keep my foot of the gas

agreed, in 4wd with the handbrake on, the car cannot be towed and if you force it you put a lot of strain and pressure on an already old transmission. Try to get your boss to pay for repairs.

I do not know if this was meant for me, doesn't really matter, I would like to explain something. First off, I was talking about CHP, secondly, I have an EDM engine (being in the netherlands and all) which has 136CHP @ 0,8 bar with a VF7 according to the brochure. This is with a CAT and small restrictive exhaust. I have an open (no CAT) 2,5'' exhaust from the turbo back. I also did some minor adjustments and perfections. In my opinion the engine is in very VERY good condition and should in fully stock form reach its 136CHP. So all this considered, but without hard evidence, I would say 150CHP is not a bad guess. Small gains over stock can be made with just exhaust mods and an IC. For safety add an oil cooler. If you want more power, you need to fix the injection. Finally turbo and manifold upgrades. In my opinion, if you want 150CHP, you will not need internal mods.

With all this you will be easily pushing 150-160hp, at 0,8bar with 2,5'' open TBE I'm already at 150hp (even though I started at 136hp) I do agree that oil and intercooler are important, heat is your enemy especially on this engine.. When upping the boost and changing turbo's you need to adress injection, be it with a RRFPR or standalone, it needs modifying.

in the last picture there is obviously a valve missing, if that was the first part to break, that would explain the carnage (even though I would expect less with just 1 broken valve) this also doesn't explain the carnage in the other cilinder, mmm. I wonder.

The passenger side valve cover vent always pops out when I replace the air filter, and if it does, it runs like crap (obviously since there is a quarter sized vacuum leak)

To my understanding the 3AT is a pure 4WD transmission, meaning there is a fysical link between the front and rear axle (not transfer clutches), just like the Part time manual boxes.

Most importantly is getting and keeping the cooling system in top condition, the turbo adds a lot of extra heat and these engines don't like heat. Replace all coolant hoses (also the hard to reach under the turbo). And if you treat it right (not doing 40miles full throttle/boost) it will stay together. But it will need more maintenance than a newer engine or a non turbo engine of this vintage to keep running properly. It is NOT true that this engine explodes when you look at it Oh and it doesn't take to modifying very well, keep it stock or expect to be swapping/spending alot.

I don't know the maths behind it and I don't have any experience, but this is what I understand from exhaust dimensions. There are certain factors you have to weigh and they all have effect on each other. If you're talking about the old subaru engines, you're talking about a 2 into 1 system, with both runners the same length. You want the flow in runner #1 to create a big vacuum in runner #2. This vacuum sucks out the burnt exhaust gasses. So ideally you want your exhaust gas velocity high, because this creates a large vacuum (due to the venturi effect) when it flies by in the collector. If you want to speed up the gas velocity, you want to keep the runners small, but go too small and you'll restrict them too much. So there's your first consideration. Then there's the length of the runner, make them too long and the exhaust gases in runner #1 haven't past the collector, which means no vacuum in runner #2. Make them too short and the gases have already passed the collector which means vacuum at the wrong time (exhaust valves shut in runner #2). Of course, when the engine is running at different RPMs the gases flow at different velocities, so a properly designed manifold works best at a certain RPM (and if you're smart, that's the same RPM at which the cams deliver most power). As a rule of thumb I have read somewhere to make the volume of the runner the same as the volume of the cilinder that it is attached to. So on the subaru engines you will need a runner of about 450cc. Quick example; when using a 50mm diameter runner, you will need 28cm or multiples of 28cm (56cm sounds more user friendly ) to give you a ballpark figure. Like I said, I never tested anything of this, so it might be rubbish, please let me know if it is

how are you supposed to get into that thing