joostvdw

I don't know if it's any use but exedy does make a clutch disc for the EA82, I have one in the XT and so far I like it, it's pretty grippy since I cannot get it to slip with 150hp but it's still very easy to live with as daily driver.

I'm working on this same problem as we speak, since it's winter over here and when it's winter time, it's wet, so I really need the blower working properly. So I built myself a PWM motor controller, and am currently modding the dash switch to accept the potentiometer, so I will have full 0%-100% control over the fan Will post some pictures when it's done.

Why don't you just remove the whole "snorkel"? I do you mean cutting the bottom out of the air filter box?

Perhaps a bit off topic, but do you happen to know what kind of engine there is on that frame? It looks a lot like a "mystery" engine we have here at the bike club, 200-300cc'ish 4 stroke, pull starter? Any info is appreciated.

does this help?

Does it smoke when it stalls? If so, I'm thinking PCV system, see if it has the recalled/updated PCV system. If it doesn't, the new high level of oil could be high enough to be sucked into the PCV and stall the engine.

Boost on my XT turbo is very noticeable, but after it's boosting it's very lineair and power keeps increasing with the RPMs. It's not a very sudden "hit" transfer, more like a smooth transition. It also has plenty torque/power down low to pull 4th gear from 1500rpm and starts seeing positive inlet pressure from as low as 1800rpm (full pressure at 2500rpm or so). I consider this a healthy EA82T :-p Only mod is an open catless 2,5'' TBE.

sounds like a proper plan, but I haven't seen which bank you are going to rob What hp numbers are you aiming for? Should be good fun in such a light body as the RX. Are you planning for a roll cage and/or strut bars?

The turbos aren't as prone to CTS failures as the sixes, so I doubt it's the CTS. Try swapping out the coil, I bet that's the problem. Coils are the same throughout the EA82 range, so you should have one laying around

Sort of true, the front 2WD XT struts are the shortest subaru made but the rear 2WD struts are the longest subaru makes On the 2WD the struts mount where on the 4WD the axle is, but has the same ride height. mount a 2wd rear strut on a 4wd subie and lift-off! .

I don't know how much room there is and how handy you are, but you could just weld up the current hole and make a new bung somewhere else.

Isn't everything a switched ground on these cars? So grounding the pump directly onto the chassis (and effectively bypass the relay) will make it run forever?

I think your best bet would be to get an adapter made that uses some gear to the the rear output of the tranny to the side of the engine (look at AWD porsches) and then use an flipped rear diff at the front. you will need to use a 2 piece driveshaft and a carrier bearing somewhere after the engine and maybe even a cutout in the oil pan to clear the driveshaft, but it should be doable.

I have a spare MAF laying around so I decided to open it up and see where exactly those traces where and solder in a variable resistor. But guess what? My MAF is totally different I will try to take a picture later on, but my cell phone is acting up (windows mobile ) and my normal camera is empty...

I got 38 highway mpg today @ 60-70mph! 1987 XT turbo (!) with 2,5'' open TBE, nothing else changed. Tires normal pressure, no special techniques just drive.

It's also worth checking GD's posts on removing the unnessecary valves and lines that come with the hitachi carbs. This will probably, at least temporarily, fix your problem.

I don't think it will be a big problem, just sand it down so there won't be any sharp edges it can catch on.

somehow the yellow and grey one over there ^^ looks real good, on the other hand, I'm a big fan of keeping it white, since that is it's original color.

I will have a look at the CAS, the spare distributor I have laying around is from an automatic EA82T out of an '89 XT. Mine is a manual october '87 (according to the VIN, first sell date is june '88). I also have a spare FPR, but is there any way to test this before swapping it? As swapping the FPR on a spider intake engine is mayor pain in the you know what and I don't want to do it twice.

Never would've thought that the throttle cable linkage would clear the hood :-\ You think this would work on a XT as well?

I just replaced the coil and iginiter, seemed to do something, but hasn't solved the problem entirely. I also had to reset the time because with this coil it suddenly was a 15 degrees BTDC? It's at 22-25 degrees now and varies slightly, maybe 1 degree either way. The CAS is inside the distributor, but I have no way of swapping/testing that. I have a spare distributor with CAS but the plug is different. Looks like my car is an oddball. No error codes though.

Sorry I forgot to mention, the EGR vacuum hose is plugged, do I also have to plug the port into the manifold? John, I checked the ignition timing with a timing light and it's rock solid at 20 degrees BTDC. I'm going to swap the igniter and coil today, check the brake booster for a vacuum leak and re-recheck ignition and cambelts.

Thanks for the quick reply I already have a vacuum/boost gauge dash mounted and under load and constant cruise its stays still, at idle it will vibrate slightly. This leads me to believe there is no mechanical problem, the engine also sounds very good and revs good, albeit with a stumble/miss.

I have a problem and would like your input. I just finished replacing the HG's, heads and turbo on my XT. I also replaced all other seals while I was in there. The heads were milled prior to installation. I runs rough and has a slight stumble under constant throttle. Ignition is at 20degrees BTDC. Fresh gas. Cam belts are lined up properly. I replaced the following before and after the "rebuilt". Swapped MAF and TPS Cleaned injectors (ultrasonic) New plugs, wires, cap and rotor New fuel filter Cleaned connectors for the coolant sensor and much much more I can't remember for the moment Please help me get this thing fixed as it's turning me crazy.

looks like a close fit, but if you turn down the collar, don't you think the body of the injector will hit the manifold? Also, WJM has mentioned in the past that DSM injectors will fit and are easy/cheap to find. My own little research seems to confirm this.