joostvdw

that kind of confirmes what I just said, the EA82T benefits from the extra air What do you mean about the about the idle thingy? The 4 cilinders don't have an active idle control or the likes, they do have an high idle solinoid that kicks up the idle when the AC is on. Perhaps the idle sufferd from the increase in air since the idle was designed for the 2.7 instead of 1.8?

I don't know if this is any usefull information here, but I will post it anyway. I'm having troubles with the AAV on my EA82T and replaced the electronic shutter valve with a simple manually operated valve, just to see how the engine runs with it open, closed or halfway. With it fully opened the idle shot up to almost 2k rpm, but I also gained quite a bit of power higher up in the power band. And since this is all taking place behind the MAF the mixture is staying the same, I'm just making more of it. So if I'm not mistaking, this auxillary air passage is acting like an extra throttle body (albeit a constantly open one) and this increase in air flow is definately helping power. This is already on a 140-150hp EA82T (EDM spec, decatted and 2,5'' TBE) so perhaps it's only of use on higher hp numbers, I don't know, just throwing it in the mix.

good job on keeping it on the road! it wouldn't be the first time someone parked their car in a ditch after blowing a tire or similar event (exploding hubs for instance ) if you really need your pics as evidence it happened to you, place today's newspaper and your dogtag (I assume you have one, being in the army and all) by the toasted rear end and take a picture. Good luck on fixing it!

It's not german, it's dutch. This is a one off and is the property of a subaru dealer here in the Netherlands. I don't know that much about it, just that it's been standing there for ever as part of the showroom and that it's not for sale. I thought it was an EA71, but I could very well be wrong.

It may be worth it to look into stainless hoses and replace the hard and both soft lines in one go. It's also a nice performance upgrade (no you don't NEED performance parts on an old brat, it's never a bad thing)

the 4 wheel transmission will have an output on the rear of the transmission that will leak oil if there's no shaft in it. You can either put the first half of the first joint in there or be creative and fab something up Also, you cannot use the original gear linkages to control the Hi/Lo gearing, it will need some modding to use Hi/Lo in 2WD, but totally doable and I even believe there is a write up about it. If you are going to use an EJ series engine, you will need an adaptor plate and be creative with the clutch/flywheel. Again, there is loads of information on this on the board and it is not going to pose a problem

there is a very similar thread recently posted WITH a solution, check the battery terminals and positive and negative wires for wear and tear

I think it looks awesome chopped, but you will have to do A LOT of strengthening on the body to keep it from flexing and buckling, especially if you want to off road it (looking at the lift) convertibles are always described as a shoebox without a lid on it, it will flex like it's nobody's business unless you put multiple braces and strengtheners on it. Try looking at other convertibles in the junkyard to get an idea at how and where to strengthen it. Also try to contact businesses how do this kind of job for a living, ask nicely and they may tell you something usefull.

Easy, unhook it and go for a ride, if it sounds and drives differently (probably quieter and slower, especially at more than 50% throttle) you know it normally opens when hooked up.

It looks like the only thing they do is just slap on some extra sheetmetal? Can someone post a picture of a RX without the fender? I would like to see if I can see why they reinforced that specific part of the body.

Perhaps you can have a look at where exactly it shifts? This will allow people with still intact cars strengthen that part of the unibody for off and onroad purposes. Still sad to hear, but atleast you were expecting it.

He IS right, it is fairly simple and straight forward. Just feel around the tranny and remove anything that is holding the tranny in place: driveshafts (3), shifter linkages, 4WD linkages (vacuum operated), DR linkages, small electrical harnass. Since it's lifted you'll have plenty of room to look/feel around and you probably can remove the halfshafts with just removing the roll pin and pulling them off the stub. Finally unbolt the transmission crossmember while you support the tranny with a jack. Now comes the hard part (or atleast the heavy part), pull the tranny STRAIGHT off towards the back of the car and it will come out. If it doesn't come out at first, wiggle it around a little, it may hang up on the studs.

doesn't look that fast to be honest, but I know better and I would still LOVE to do that one day. How do you guys spot that he needs strut bars? To me the car holds the road really good.

Since the installation is the reverse order of removal, can you say removal is the reverse of installation? :-p Also, show us some pics, I know I love to see the work getting done on this car!

Looks very nice I must say. I've got absolutely no clue on these older engines, but only time thus far I've seen exhaust ports on the front and back of the heads was on Kostamojen's FF1. True or not true? Oh and when you get it in the brat, make sure to make a nice long, picture filled topic about it

You may be in luck The subaru alcyone is the subaru XT (atleast the alcyone with the EA82 is), it was for a limited time also available with MPFI (dual port intake, like the engine you've bought) NON turbo. If that's the case, just swap the heads (and perhaps internals of the new heads, if they look good) (and aren't the MPFI cams the longest duration?) and you'll be good to go. Best way to check if the engine is turbo though is to remove the heads and look if the pistons are dished or not. Dished = turbo. edit: and the fact they know the difference between turbos and non-turbos and this was being sold as non turbo, is also a good sign.

First check for loose/cracked hoses and obvious stuff, there's nothing like an easy fix. After that, check compression and spark on all cilinders. Check the plugs for signs. Is it fuel injected? If so, check if injectors are fireing, see if the fuel pump works properly, check fuel filter. If you can, see if there are any trouble codes on the ECU. If all this stuff turns out oke, I have no specific knowledge on this car, perhaps try the Toyota fora?

but did it clean up the carbon deposits :-p

Manuals don't have the FWD fuse all this fuse does is opening the clutch packs in the auto tranny, thus disabling the rear part of the drivetrain. Manual trannys don't have a clutch pack, they have a centre VLSD instead.

or, plug the tube on both ends and see if the car behave differently. You can also put a long vacuum hose onto the secondary barrel and into the cab, suck on it while driving to see if the car responds (it will probably accelerate)

If the engine is as good as it sounds, then you've got yourself a nice deal there Only one thing, if this is originally a turbo engine (which is highly likely, because it's a dual port intake) but without the turbo, it will run like crap when you put a carb on it. The compression wil be 7.7:1 and that's way too low to run without a turbo.

I believe you are right, I stand corrected

can't he swap the entire motor harnass + intake from the 86 onto the long block of the 89? that way he'll keep all the sensors and electronics of the 86 but have the new bottom end of the 89.

The thing they didnt' mention is how to check if it's an LSD Just turn one of the wheels/axle stubs and see which way the other rotates Same direction? LSD Opposite direction? non-LSD It's THAT easy :-p

And welcome to the world of changing short blocks You should also have a look at the fuel system, as I believe that the stock fuel system is what is holding us back at the moment.