jamal

yes the 06 wrx and legacy are stil 5x100. If you used 04 rotors and 05+ calipers there wouldn't be a problem. If he swapped the front brakes without a rotor fitment problem, which I'm assuming since he's only asking about the rears, he most likely has 04 parts. That would definitely be good to know from the op, though. The front is where the biggest change was from 04-05 on the STi. The bearing and knuckle were beefed up and that's the reason for the new lug pattern (and why front struts aren't interchangeable). All Subaru calipers and brackets are still interchangeable up front (except probably svx). The problem comes with the fancy rear brakes. The Subaru 2-pot still uses an R-160 rear diff and the smaller e-brake so the backing plate is all you need.

Well, I'd wager that they're 04's since he got the fronts on. Even then I think he would only need rotors, and that kit I posted would still work.

This is your best bet if you want to keep the rear brembos: http://www.twrracing.com/products/subaru/subaru.html go down to "WRX R160 Rear Rotor Kit for the STi Brembo 2-piston Caliper" Otherwise you pretty much need to swap the whole rear end because the diff, axles, hub, e-brake, and backing plate are all different.

some right hand drive legacies. Because the turbos and piping won't fit in a left hand drive car.

yeah 15" minimum up front.

the turbo brakes are 2-piston fronts with bigger rotors. The rears are vented. Pull everything off if it's there. It bolts right on. Also you should probably grab the rear sway bar. the 95 stuff won't really be an upgrade.

heh, especially when you do what I did the first time and forget to disconnect the brake line first. I was worried about the tapered washer until I took everything apart. Then it doesn't make sense to me any other way.

The early ones were EAs. Everything new is an EJ. The next two numbers are the displacement. ER27, EG33, and EZ30 are the 6-cylinders. Then there are a bunch of variations of each. I don't really know what they all are, but basically, the EJ201 is like the first variation of the 2.0. The 05 WRX had a EJ207 I think. Anyway they work kind of like that and you have to get into the next few numbers/vin to figure out exactly what came from what, etc. This page has a table. And messed up formatting at the top or something. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20

uh, that's what the battery does. Worthless/rice imo.

you guys seem to be missing the key part of Legacy777's post. You need an offset of +50 or so depending on width. My 16x6.5" wheels have a 55mm offset. This aligns the centerline of the wheel to the center of the bearing. If you don't have the correct offset, you put a bending moment on the bearings, and then you can kiss them goodbye. Very few wheels have the correct offset for our cars, so I'd recommend not trying to make something fit. Luckily, pretty much every other Subaru wheel has the correct offset and bolt pattern, like WRX wheels and the 17" LGT wheels.

this forum has some neat things like search and the FAQ. I suggest you read them. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html

I also have a lot of Impreza stuff on my Legacy: Struts, springs, and tops are from an STi, rear lateral links and endlinks are from a 99 Impreza, the mounting brackets and steering rack bushings are for a WRX, so are the wheels, and the brakes I'm putting on one of these days. If I don't like how the added brake caliper volume feels, I'll probably also go with the single diaphram booster and an SVX master cylinder. This place has a bunch of whiteline stuff: http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/subaru_corner.html

I'll take some pictures of my rust spots and ripped off mudflap later if that helps. I never wash it but at least it's well maintained mechanically. In the last few months I've done the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, knock sensor, seafoamed the car, and I changed the oil a few hundred miles ago. I've started using Mobil semi-syn. Diff fluid is on the to-do list, along with a better harness for the headlights to go with the Xtravisions sitting on my desk. Here's the good stuff: STi take-off suspension 18mm rear swaybar steering rack bushings rimz yo WRX front, H6 rear brakes, Goodridge SS lines, Axxis Ultimates one of these days. I have the calipers and pads and lines. I just need rotors, rear brackets, and some misc hardware.

The warning is for the people on modems, because when you open up a page with a dozen pictures embedded, it's going to take awhile for them all to load, versus just doing it one at a time/looking at only the pictures you want through links. The reason I used the thumbnails was to be considerate to the slow connections. As far as the USMB servers are concerned, it's the same as just a link to the picture, but it gets opened in this window instead of a new one. LosDiosDeVerde86, I didn't sand them until the scratches were all gone, and the clearcoat filled them all in. The problem with that is that the heat can cause the clearcoat to haze up a bit, which it seems to be doing. I was just going off the legacycentral thread, but after reading the one I linked, I realized I should have gone something like 800-1200-1500-1800-2000, and made sure to get all the scratches out on each step. It will take a lot longer, but the results will be worth it. Although it might be a better idea to just pick up a plastic polishing kit at a parts store.

I don't remember off the top of my head, but I think you should go down to like 2000, and keep the increments as close as possible. Spend as much time on each grit as it takes to get the scratches off from the last one. I probably spend like 20 min per side, but if I did it again I'd do a better job. I only used like 3 different grits, and I think I started with 400 and went to 1200. I would start with something higher, and spend more time on each. I still had scratches with mine and they looked cloudy, and apparnantly there shouldn't be any when you're done. Also make sure you use a sanding block. I hit it with spray on clear coat, which filled in the scratches and made it look clear. Apparantly that's not the best way to go, though, and mine are a bit clould and orange-peely. Read through this whole thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158315 There's more stuff down farther. Like this post which basically says I did it wrong:

oh, and I did the whole wet sand deal: Before After Small increments are key, and you want to spend a lot of time with the finer grits. I did mine in the sink.

About the same amount as it takes to show this sentence. Using the tags, all the server knows is the size and location of the picture. When the page is displayed, your internet browser downloads it directly from where it is hosted, and does not use any more bandwidth than a link. This stupid argument is using more bandwidth than any of the pictures in the thread.

Posting pictures isn't going to waste bandwidth (unless they're attached). The browser grabs the picture from wherever it's posted, and doesn't really have an effect on usmb. As far as the servers are concerned, it's just another line of code. In anycase, I'll rock thumbnails for the slow connections. It's always a pain in the rump roast waiting for a page with tons of pictures to load. yeah, the front fender isn't doing so great: It was always tweaked from when my sister rear-ended someone a few years ago, and the bumper is a bit scuffed up from that as well. Then I hit a trash can. Most of the tabs on the turn signal are broken off, so clear duct tape is holding it on. It used to be regular duct tape. Also I cut some holes in the bumper cover too: But that's for my lights. You can see the scuffs in this picture: My paint sucks too. No thanks go to the guy who decided to paint the wall my car was parked next to while I was home for winter break. Oh, and I did this: It started out really well when I very carefully drilled new inboard holes. Then the top wouldn't physically fit in the tower. So now I have a strut tower brace and a half degree of cross camber. Now I'm looking for someone who can make some plates to locate the tops. Those should fix things quite nicely for me.

Yeah, you could do that without problems. Springs would need to be from a 96-99 Outback because the rear suspension on the Legacy changed for 00. You should grab the rear swaybar from an Outback while you're at it, too.

you can't do that. The center diff isn't capable of transferring 100% of the power to the front or rear, so you'll basically end up sitting there with the rear output on the transmission spinning.

well, then I guess you can't drive. This is the kind of stuff that happens when you don't keep a car properly maintained. And to elaborate more on why you can't drive with one axle, the front diff is open. This means without the axle going to the wheel, that side of the output is just going to sit and spin when you try to give it power. The center diff cannot transfer 100% of the power to the rear. If you drove without a front axle, you would fry it, and the car wouldn't go very far in the first place.

no you can't. The front diff and center diff can't handle it. Just drive around with a clicking cv.

yeah, cai, exhaust, etc, isn't going to make much of a difference. Either buy a faster (turbo) car or get something else, or do a swap. As far a coilovers, there are a variety available. Whiteline group 4s seem to be good coilovers at a reasonable price. SubieGal has them on her RS so maybe you could ask her what she thinks or check her site for a review. Anyway there are lots of them available, and I'd assume you could get a bit of extra ride height. I would say to stay away fron the japanese coilovers (such as tien and cusco). From what I've heard, the european and such ones are better.

I've heard the bolt pattern was right but I'm doubtful the offset would be right. You won't have a lot of room for error with those tires on your car, either. I know of people who rubbed with 205s. Actually I did slightly before I put in camber bolts. For $800, get a set of take off Legacy GT or 06 WRX wheels. Then you'll know they have the right offset. 05-06 STi wheels don't fit, and 04 STi wheels/tires are more than likely going to be too wide.

I haven't senn another car with quite the same system. And actually it's only in 90-94 Legacies and the SVX, although some older Soobs had a similar button.