jamal

Trailblazer/Envoy/Bravada/whatever isuzu's SUV is. Maybe some other things too. 9-6x was going to be the Tribeca. They are doing an 06 9-2x, and the Aero has the new 2.5 as well. I believe Toyota is going to start building some cars at SIA now.

AWESOME!! Hey now all you need is to put in the coefficient of friction for all the different pads available. Here's my pending change: 90-94 Legacy n/a front brakes with stock pads -> WRX front brakes with performance pads = 60.28% torque increase. 90-94 Legacy n/a rear sedan brakes with stock pads -> H6 rear brakes with performance pads = 60.22 torque increase. total 0.06% increase in forward brake bias. I just need that guy to ship me my rear brackets. Oh, also, for a wagon prop valve would I just add 13% to the rear?

Larger wheels don't make a difference, it's the overall diameter of the tire. Generally, for every +1" in wheel diameter, you're going to want to go down 10% on the section, and one size wider. So, like, a 195/60-15 would have about the same diameter as a 185/75-14. Those 15s are going to be very, very close to the same height as your stock wheels. miata.net has a tire calculator that will tell you how close. I have 205/55-16s in place of 185/70-14s, and my speedo is still pretty accurate. I checked with GPS and it was off by about 2 mph at 60, which is normal for any car.

Well, if it's an auto, there could be duty solenoid c/clutch pack problems. if it's a 5mt, the viscous coupling could be fried. One way to find out is the do some tight corners in a parking lot and stomp on it. If the AWD isn't working, you'll know. Although I guess you already do. Subaru awd tends to be kind of voodoo magic sort of stuff that is only completely understood by engineers deep in a laboratory in Japan. When things stop working they tend to just be replaced. It'd probably be cheapest and easiest to find a used transmission somewhere. If it's a manual you have a lot more choices.

It also seems like most unhappy RE92 owners are 16 year olds who slid their WRX into a pole. Every week there's a post like that on nasioc, and every week 12 people are like "dude, it's because of the tires." I've been driving on them for over a year, and I haven't had any problems in the rain and they grip better than my old tires. They're also very predictible and break away gradually. Yes, I would rather have Pzero Neros or even Kuhmo ASXs, but I can spend $250 for a new set of wheels and tires or $450 the kuhmos. Only the 05-06 STi has 5x114.3 lugs.

What, because they're *GASP* RE92's? Sure there are some better tires, but there's nothing wrong with them. As far as the diameter goes, it's not really significant.

The Outback XT has the 11.5/10.6" brakes that fit under all 16" subaru wheels. It's listed in the specs on the Subaru website. The STi and Legacy GT are the only ones that have bigger front brakes (although the WRX 4-pots don't fit under some 16" wheels). As far as tires go, I wouldn't get too much much taller. miata.net has a neat tire size calculator. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

basically any 93+ stereo has the same wiring harness. Exceptions are the SVX and 93-94 Legacy. I'm thinking of putting a WRX changer into my Legacy although I'll have to make a harness. I'd assume your deck has the plug for a CD player.

That's about right. I had a waterpump blow up on a ski trip. Lucky for me the dealer managed to have it fixed Monday (a holiday) by 2:30 after bringing it in Sunday night. Total was about $600.

One problem I see with uneven pressures is handling. By changing the pressure relative to the front/back, you can change how the car will behave in a corner. I wouldn't want wierd, inconsistant cornering. Yeah, it sucks when you blow out a tire when they're all fairly worn and you have to buy 4 tires, but otherwise just check the pressures and rotate the tires on a regular basis. It's part of owning a car.

Subaru World auto parts in Glendale is apparantly has the most Subaru parts of any salvage yard. I'm going to be heading up there one of these days to get some brake parts. They seem to be a little pricey, though.

The non-turbo Outback has the 11.4/10.3" brakes that fit under any Subaru 16" wheel. Instead of looking at salvage yards I'd shop around in the classifieds. I've seen sets of 16" WRX wheels for $125 (without tires). Actually, I've seen sets for free in the local classifieds.

I don't think it's worth it. Yes, a K&N flows more air, but the trade off is that more stuff gets through it. Then there's the question of whether or not the slightly increased flow actually makes a noticable difference.

Take a closer look at the brakes. The caliper is attached to the caliper bracket, which is attached to the spindle. The bracket holds the pads in place and basically acts as a spacer for the caliper. If you were to just buy bigger rotors, they wouldn't fit in the calipers and brackets. What you can do is find some WRX calipers and brackets (you might just need the brackets), which will place the caliper farther away from the center of the wheel, and allow for a bigger rotor. Here is a comparison of my stock 93L bracket with a 02 WRX bracket. You can see how the wrx bracket is taller: Doing this will provide more heat capacity in the front, but will also provide more braking torque in the front. The brakes are already pretty forward biased, so adding to that could actually increase braking distance, because the rear brakes will be doing less than their share of the work. The more important question is: Do you really need to upgrade the brakes? The only reason to upgrade brakes is if you have problems with fade. When the brakes fade, two things can happen: The pad will start to out-gas and fall apart and glaze over and not be as sticky; and/or the fluid can boil. Brakes have to get pretty hot for this to happen. Start with good pads and fluid. It's fairly inexpensive and a pad rated for higher temperatures will continue to work at higher temperatures. The trade-off is that a really-high performance (i.e.: track) pad doesn't work well when cold. They'll also tend to be noisier and give off more dust and not last as long. If you're still overheating brakes (which you shouldn't be), then maybe bigger rotors are a good idea. I ran into fade road rallying and there aren't many pad options for my car, so I shopped around and found some WRX brakes, SS lines, and good pads on the cheap. Of course I'm upgrading the rears to keep the bias. It still is going to end up being around $500 for the swap, and I'm buying mostly used parts and doing the work myself. man, I could go on forever. Check out some of the articles here at stoptech. They know their stuff when it comes to brakes.

Looks like a "4" to me:

Exactly. Most 4x4s don't have locking front/rear differentials. Some have rear LSDs. The advantage to a part-time 4wd is that it's mechanically locked. Clutch plates and viscous couplings can overheat/be overpowered and stop working. I like my friend's 4Runner. It has full-time 4wd with a locking center diff and low range.

Cool. I have a set of axxis ultimates sitting here. One of these days I'll do that brake swap.

No. All throwing on a bov does it make it run and sound like crap. good subaru resources: scoobymods.com, nasioc.com. There are lots and lots of things you could buy for it. Anything that fits a wrx will fit the saab. Some differences I can think of off the top of my head are: different front fascia, slightly more insulation, leather, sunroof, hids available, and, uh, maybe the suspension is slightly softer. I really like the look of the saab 17" wheels.

In the rear you take off the bolt that holds the lateral links, in the front detach the ball joint from the control arm. It's probably much easier to take the ball joint out of the control arm than it is to take out of the spindle. I've even heard of spindles being cracked from removing the ball joint.

What do you mean by kit? OEM replacment, or maybe something a bit sportier? If you just want stock replacements, you might as well rent some spring compressors, as I don't know if you can buy an new entire assembly. I wouldn't want to pay for all new springs and perches and top hats and stuff if I didn't have to, either. You can, however, buy used assemblies from people here, at legacycentral, nasioc, etc. Read some threads and search here.

Word. Twin scroll might be likely, though.

Not in North America. The n/a EJs here are/were the 1.8, 2.2 and 2.5. In other countries there are EJ15s and 16s, too.

Legacy and Forester STi (Forester STi is for sale in other markets already) are very probable, but 500hp and twin turbos is completly made up.

It should just pop right out. The problem is that steel rusted steel is 7x less dense than not rusted steel, so a little bit of rust will expand 7x and make it pretty tight. To get my ball joint out of the bent control arm, I had to use a tie-rod puller, a pry bar, and a hammer. Although once the puller was on tight and I was prying on the knuckle, it only took one shot with the hammer to fall out. And the ball joint has a tapered bolt, which should just fall right off (if it were new). I'd suggest renting a puller from autozone.

The automatic won't let you over-rev. Floor it from a stop and keep going, and the car will run to redline and shift. However, in many Subarus, it won't shift higher that the selected gear and bounce of the rev-limiter. Don't forget the redline is there for a reason- it's safe to rev the car that high. If the car has oil and is well maintained, wear isn't going to increase much. And yes, the power does start to fall off before redline, but shifting early will start you off lower in the power band. My 93 Legacy has 160k miles and it sees redline fairly often. What do they call that- an "italian tune-up?" Why? because I like to be going freeway speeds when I hit the top of the ramp. And it's fun.