jamal

"rising" the suspension and putting on taller tires isn't going to do much for mileage. I hear civics get great economy, though.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=335263 48mm is a little low, especially for a wagon. But, at the most, you might have to roll the fenders.

Well, being turbocharged, the air going into the chamber is pressurized, so it uses more than the volume of the cylinders at atmospheric pressure. Sounds to me that the 350 cfs is just the standard for the test. I think it would be possible to extrapolate the data to a differently sized filter or different flow rates. While you might not be able to determine the exact amount of dirt being trapped by, say, a purolator filter on an EJ22 versus the AC Delco, the comparison between the different filters should still be good, so I can probably say that the AC will still filter more but not flow as well as the purolator. Of course, the real question is "does any of this really matter?" Most of the differences probably aren't that significant. The K&N kind of stands out, though. The amount it filters doesn't seem as proportional to the flow as the others, letting by more dirt for a small gain. Does it adquately filter dirt to keep an engine safe and running for a long time? I think it probably does. I'm not ever going to use one, though.

Eh, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Mine shakes a bit, and does it more if the transmission's low on fluid. My j/y replacement leaks, but at least it shifts alright, unlike the last one, which didn't like reverse. There haven't been any driveability issues, and it hasn't gotten any worse after 30,000 or so miles.

Why not? There are square solid rubber mounts, and cylindrical gel-filled mounts. If you put cylindrical gel filled mounts on a car with square ones or vice-versa, you just have to take the brackets as well. They might look different and have a different part number, but they will still fit perfectly.

The price I got was from a dealer, and at 1stsubaruparts.com, the price for everything is about $170, which is about the same as they told me. Doesn't really make sense that the fancy group N parts would be less, but dealerships are like that, I guess. Yeah, the engine is going to have to come off the mounts and be lifted up a bit. I don't know how much flexibilitly there is in the rest of the drivetrain and such or if you'd have to loosen up the transmission or something.

They're group N mounts, made by Subaru/STi. You can buy them at places like boxer4racing and allsubaru.com. They're made of harder rubber than the stock mounts, and can usually be bought for much less than stock mounts from a dealership. I went in to buy some new mounts to put in when I had my transmission replaced, and they wanted something like $90 per mount. You can get both GN mounts for like $110. You can use the 91 mounts, but they're even older, and fluid filled, and for all I know could fall apart when you remove them. There are usually used sets available on nasioc for cheap off WRXs. Here they are at Oakos, a place I've had good experience with ordering online. Sold out, though.

Thanks. I've been getting sick of people telling me their K&N adds 10 horsepower and then getting pissed off when I tell them it doesn't. Now I can make them even more angry with actual proof. Here's an oil filter study that's good.

As in, you can only get group N mounts for 97+ Subarus? I was under the impression that all EJs mounted the same. There are people I know of with 90-94 Legacies with gN mounts.

I like the wheels. They seem to look better on most other Subarus than WRXs. The only problem I see is that they should have taller tires on an Outback. Here's a not so great picture of my 93 legacy with those wheels at the top of Mt. Wison: I guess taking a better one is another reason for me to go back up there.

It's actually just rev-matching. double clutching is when you let the clutch out in neutral on the way to the next gear and rev-match the syncros as well. It's especially good to do with a transmission that doesn't have syncros. You can downshift the 4eat into 1st at 80 mph if you want. It won't downshift until you're going slow enough to not over-rev the motor. I think. Shift logic for the 4eat changed in 95 in Legacies, and I know more about the 90-94, in which I can drop it to 1st while moving and it won't hurt anything. Imprezas never had the "shift-up logic," and will bang off the rev limiter if you place the selector in 1st from a stop. The 90-94 Legacies and 92-94 SVXs will upshift automatically when you hit redline (interesting note: the 95-97 SVXs had the fuel cut logic and a manual mode button). I don't know if it works the same in reverse. I manually place my car in gear a lot. Like, when I stop to pull into the alley behind my house, I'll usually drop it to one and leave it there until I stop. That way the car doesn't shift up to 3rd, then back down to 1 when I turn, and then back up to 2nd, and then down to 1st again when I pull into the driveway. I just like being in control of the gear. I'll also use it on things like onramps, for example. When I take a slow corner onto the ramp, then accelerate hard, I just keep it in 1st to prevent it from shifting to 2 and then back to 1. I really wish I had a manual transmission.

The "dett" comes from the idiot who listed it not knowing jack about the engine. It's not an SR20 or RB26 (Nissan engines not available in the US). EJ20tt isn't even correct. It's an EJ20, with twin turbos. And, like Dr RX said, no fit in LHD. Now, get yourself an old postal wagon Legacy and you're in luck. I think that would be fun, although a bit pointless. There isn't really a benefit over a newer 2.0 single turbo block.

I know, I'm just joking around. It seems like someone is always bringing these up somewhere.

Yeah, but my custom blower hose is scientifically proven to make more power.

I have a custom hose in my interior that I blow in when I want to go faster. I'll sell you one for $69.95.

It's definitely grown on me since I first saw it, and I suppose the bugeye was the same way. I don't like the clear rear tails though. I see too many 88 Honda Accords with e-bay altezzas. A few things I'll mention about it is that the WRX will be a 2.5l, it has 4-pot front and 2-pot rear brakes, and I've heard things about a barebones TR that may have a 6-speed. That video I saw somewhere with the two Spec-Cs with WRC decals tearing around a wet course was pretty awesome, too.

yeah, you can probably run close to 20, but definitely not without the supporting engine management and fuel system. More air without more fuel = bad. I suggest the 2.0 turbo sub-forum at nasioc.

Not to mention Ryan@Teape Subaru heard it from some guy on the Internet.

Pretty sure you can just crank it up to like 20 or 30. I'm no expert on them turbo thingies, though. I think he's saying what can you go up to with just an MBC. If stock boost is 14psi, I'm going to go with 14psi. I think people generally frown upon just throwing an a boost controller and upping the pressure.

Well, that's probably not it, because it doesn't have 9 doors. Seriously, I hear it might have to do with an upcoming change of model codes. Like maybe the Impreza would become something like the "B3 Impreza" and the Legacy would be the "B5 Legacy," and the outbacks and wagons and stuff would have different numbers. I guess that still doesn't provide any insight as to what the "B" might stand for.

You could probably make one, or have something made, or make some mounts for a thule rack or something. I wouldn't ever put lights on the roof, though. They tend to throw up a lot of glare from the hood. The Hella FF1000s I have above my bumper put out more than enough light for nighttime road rallies on dark, twisty roads. The only thing I could see doing is maybe getting some smaller cornering lights to go under the bumper where the little fog light holes are. If I really wanted to get crazy and make my Legacy a full-on rally car, I'd get some hood mounted light pods.

That was me not being very nice. There are BMWs faster than Subarus, and Subarus faster than BMWs. And, given the choice between an M3 SMG and STi as a track car, I'd probably take the M3. According to the Car and Driver sitting in front of me, a new 750 (the V8, not the V12, which is now the 760) will do 0-60 in 5.4 and the 1/4 mile in 13.9 at 103. That's faster than the WRX's 6.0s 0-60 and 14.6s at 94mph tested in the September sport compact comparo article.

Is There Any Particular Reason You'Ve Been Capitalizing The First Letter Of Every Word? Check The Back Of Road And Track And See What The 0-60 And 1/4 Mile Times Are. Also The Old 750i V12s Were The Worst Engines Ever Made By BMW.

I have Hella FF1000s on my bumper ($97 shipped from rallylights.com). My sister rear ended someone in my car a few years ago, so I wasn't worried about cutting through the bumper cover to bolt the 3/16" steel plates I made directly to the bumper. The plates themselves tend to vibrate a bit, however, so I'll eventually make some new ones. They really only move on bigger bumps, so it's not distracting, just noticable.

I believe running the a/c will still give you better mileage than rolling the windows down on the highway due to the added drag. I get 24 out of my 93 Legacy awd auto (2.2l) driving to and from work (a/c on the way home), in conditions ranging from stop and go to 95mph on wide open freeway. I'm pretty sure I need a new O2 sensor, though (CEL comes on for a second sometimes, and last I pulled the codes, it was that), and the air and fuel filter are getting replaced soon. I've seen as high as 27, and that was on open road running light, averaging about 80.