Storydude1

They are even better when you find them in the Boneyard, for 3 bucks.. I will say the one in my 93 Legacy was a little loose in the airbox. Same results..Not much difference if at all.

Or, you can send me 200, and I'll get you a tested good one from the junkyard. 1500 bucks is insane... The local pick-a-part sells ECM's for 35 bucks, WITH a 30 day warranty.

I can post a pic...but it will not help you too much. I had to mangle the pipe to get it off...notmuch is left of it. It attaches to the Transaxle at the point where the pipe is closest to the transaxle...Roughly the middle of the car.

I don't know enough about the Subaru TCM to make a determination. I'm not sure if Lock-up is controlled by fluid pressure, or a solinoid. If it's solinoid, a swap MIGHT change it. Of course, I'd also need to know how the tranny unlocks the converter as well. Most are done by brake application(electrical), some are controlled by TV pressure, some by Speed sensors.

I have the one I cut off of mine if you woud like a picture.....Seems that is a common place for them to rust as well. Mine is so far: rusted at the 2-1 junction under the heads, Rusted at te 2-1 junction under the motor, Rusted at the body mount just aft of the converter, and rusted at the second converter. 93 Legacy wagon. All the body mount is is a u-shaped piece of metal, that bolts to a boss on the Transaxle. It's about dead center under the car, where the pipe transitions from Right to Left. I'm just going to gut the entire system, and make my own...2X the cost of the car for JUST exhaust is NOT gonna happen.

Happens to the best of us..

Just to clairify..Gas floats on water. Otherwise oil spills would not be a big deal..it would all sink. Water in a gas tank will sink to the bottom, and be picked up by the sending unit.

Check the plugs that go into the instrument cluster. MY guess is that one of them is not seated all the way.

Sounds like your converter is not locking up, or is not holding as well as it should. Now, fixing that is another thread all together..

Make sure you have a few gallons of gas in a can before trying this. I attemped to "test" my Low fuel light in my new 93 wagon...It worked...1 min before the car sputtered and stalled. Out of gas. So, I CAN say that the light works...and when It comes on in mine, it's EMPTY! The 30 min walk to a gas station really bit too..I'm not blowing up a AAA call for my stupidity Of course, I got MUCH better MPG when I fixed the Transfer pump's fuel line. the car runs MUCHO better with the transfer pump hooked to the sending unit...and not the EVAP SYSTEM! Looks like the PO was not too bright

Dude, not to be a wongleflute, but WHY would one need a macro to type in: 114,987miles Oil change 10w40 grease all lube points. 114,997 Transmission service, 3 Qt, Dex/3 115,000 Rotate tires, ft/R.

Yes, it's called Excel.

It's a JU thing...

Teh 5.Nizzle! Nice to see there are no garden tools, or roof rack on it. check out the Nizzle! http://www.youtube.com/watch.php?v=QfQOFZfkNRs&search=Hummer%20suck%20SUV%20Jeep EDIT: Link semi NWS for f-bomb.

Even if it does move, and a valve contacts a piston there will be no damage. It's the 400Feet per second hammer blow that does in Interference engines. When the motor is not spinning, the piston cannot come up and smack an extended valve. I would not try to turn it over past the stuck valve to re-align, but if it contacts it during the change, it's no big deal.

Check your PM's.

If you look around here you(now I'm not saying stealing) might find a Factory service manual(although I would not condone such a thing as downloading copyrighted material;) )that you could, if you were so inclined, dowload, and print out.(If you don't mind babysitting a printer for 7 hours). Not to say I would do such a thing(BWHAHAHAHAHAA) but they are out there...

If the dealer will not offer a CARFAX, STAY AWAY. New Orleans Salvage vehicles have ALREADY been showing up at auctions around the WNY area. That said, AWD, or 4wd vehicles fetch a preimum around here...I just sold a 86 Jeep Cherokee, RUSTY<RUSTY<RUSTY, but 4wd, for 1200 bucks...It was only worth about 100. I've noticed that most people around here do NOT sell the subarus...They hold on to them untill they rust away. I just picked up a 93 Legacy wagon, AWD, but a few small rust holes for 500 bucks. Runs great, I just had to weld up the exhaust, and do some minor bodywork. Rust is a way of life around here..the trick is to get a car without alot of rust, and try to keep it in check. A REALLY good way to prevent rust(albiet dirty as sin) is to take used motor oil, and spray the underside of your vehicle with it from a garden sprayer. It drips for a day, smells if it hits exhaust, and makes working on the underside a pain.......But it will NOT rust on you. My grandfather did this for 40 years, and his cars had less rust than others of the same age, and ones that were undercoated. I'll keep my eyes open for you, and if I see a good deal, I'll let you know. Are you between Buffalo, and rochester?

Rain is the common factor...I'd check for a loose connection, or corroded connection on the o2 sensors.

When you understand that that AAA guy only gets 12 bucks to come out for a service call, you understand his lack of committment. I worked for AAA a few years back...that 12 bucks a call gets OLD FAST. Add to it, the people ***************ing about the time it takes to remove a tire that has not been off the car since it was made, the spare that is flat, the snapped lugs, and the Wait time, Im suprised that AAA can even GET people to work for them.

My advice? Find a mid-late 90's Cherokee. they are bulletproof, and pretty good stock. Lifts are easy, and the 4.0/AW4 combo will last WELL over 250K miles.

X2. And it's a good thing. It keeps the seals lubed up, and the compressor running during the winter. As a result, your AC does not sit for months, without being used. It ,like was said, also dries out incoming air, to aid in defrosting. A little tip. Keep your widows spotless, and they don't fog as much.

Standing in front of the car. Under the hood on your Left side between the firewall, and the strut tower(strut tower being the thing with the BIG nut all by itself) Bolted to the back side of the strut tower will be a black rectangle that says FWD on it. Pull that cover off, and insert a 20 amp fuse. If the vibration goes away, you have torque bind.

Anytime I rip into an engine, I replace anything that is surrounding the parts I replace. I.E. Belts, gaskets, hoses...I'd say for the small cost of a new WP, and seals, I'd replace it while I'm in there. It does not add much to the time involved, and the peace of mind is worth it. Plus, it REALLY sucks when you have to remove EVERYthing you took off 2K miles later. Not saying it WILL go, but It usually seems like that:)

If you have AC, and it does not work, do a search on OBA over on Pirate4X4.com(Do NOT post without knowing what you speak of over there...) Engine driven, uses the AC compressor, and can supply more than enough air for ANY off-road need. Less than 75 bucks in parts, and you can have 120PSI air@12CFM/2500Engine RPM. Scuba tanks will not work(not enough volume) Co2(Powertank)will work, but can get expensive with repeated fills. Walmart 5 Gal air tanks=useless(unless used as a tank for engine driven OBA) OBA link using Sanden(rotary) compressor Great info there. I installed my OBA on my Jeep for less than 50 bucks(used, and scrounged parts). It will fill a 31X10.5/15 from 15 psi to 35 in about 45 seconds...Or about as fast as my home 60 Gal. Sanden compressor, 5 Gal wally world tank, and a few fittings.