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I have 5 now, 10 all together. It aint no honda or toyota. Same for pick any American car. It is a one year only Everything works, finally. Brat's are cool period. Repeat above sentance. Everyone with any sense up here in the frozen north with a lick of intelligence drives one. They hold there value well here. Brat's are cool.

That stupid 110.00 dollar valve is still a Subaru only part. Don't ask why I know. How about non-cat Y pipes. It is nearly impossible to find without the cat.

Does anyone know for sure whether a 83 gl-10 digi dash will fit a Brat at all, Gen. 2, '82? There is a nice one on the bay as I am sure everyone knows. Will Mark Mager please call me at 208-267-9877. Emails bounce and I don't have the right phone number for you, still have all the junk, Bradd:D

Your horn pad should screw on from the back of the wheel. Remove it and remove the nut. You can put your knees behind and pull from the front. A little rocking action seems to help. I have pulled 3 in the last year, and did not need a puller to do it. On the Gen. one's, which may not apply, there is a plastic spacer and a spring to force the two pegs into the hole on the signal return. just be alive when you pull the wheel. It will get you close enough to center to work. If it is gritty or the grease for the spacer has dried up, clean it and re-grease it for smooth sliding and it should always turn off your signal.

How far off is it? You can get it closer by moving the wheel on it's spline. The chances of it lining straight up are not good. One tooth seems to move it several degrees off center. When I changed the ignition, I thought I would use the chance to straighten out the wheel. It was in a place where it was off one way or the other by switching it from one tooth to the one next to it. It will have to be a combination of re-centering the lower joint and the wheel on their respective splines. That should get it close. You can center it and re-align the front end to suit as well, but that is a lot of work. Let us know what worked for you.

4 bad carbs? It's kind of like 4 bad modems, time to check the phone lines. I had a cycle do that to me once because a piece of tape fell into the gas tank. It would work it's way to the outlet, and no go. I would change the filters, test the pump output, all after removing and draining the tank. the pump could be pulling the rubber line closed due to restriction also, ans as Ken said, could be bad gas. The odds of 4 carbs being bad are pretty good with Hitatchi's, but unlikely to all 4 give the same indications. Did you do any tank, pump or line work?

If YUGO made a station wagon, you could get 6 kids in it also, but I believe the advantage is crashworthiness. Is that a word? If it were my kids, and it has been, the bigger vehicle lets me sleep better. Just my 2 cents worth, and yes, there are a lot of folks that drive them and don't need them, is this a great country or what?

LED at correct voltage, up to 100,000 hours of UN-INTERUPTED use. Turning them on and off shortens there life somewhat, but they will far out last bulbs with those pesky filaments. There are 12 volt and 13 volt leds in a variety of colors. They do not produce the light of a bulb and are directional. Go for it, they will look cool. Your dimmer may not work, but who uses it anyway?

I believe there is 90 weight in it now. It came from a chump in San Diego, so if it is like the rest of the car, it could have anything in it. I do believe I will go with the 75-90 synth. There is a guy on the bay that has the struts, They are Monroe, and if '84 will work on an '82, then I am going to snag a pair. Now, does anyone know the length, size and pitch of a motor mount to motor bolt is?:bday:

This is a good trick for stuck exhaust nuts as well. Heat to red hot and quench in water. Boils out the rust and will turn off fairly easy. Have gotten many a stuck nut off that way and it hasn't failed yet. Should work on the offending sensor.

Which set up is it? It sounds like the curse of the SVX automatic. When they quit, and they do, it acts just like that. Usually ruins the viscous discs?. I think. Put a 5 speed in and call it good.

As has been mentioned on numerous occasions, having the 6 lug Toyota pattern drilled opens up a good deal of possibilities, steel as well as alloy and in every wrecking yard on the planet. I believe there is a heading in the manual at the top of the front page about it.:bday:

What? No one knows? Ya'all live in Florida?

No doubt about it, nitrous it is!

Did anyone change the wheels or put bigger tires on at some point? This can also rob speed. The Weber idea is a good one, but it will be a long time before it pays for it's self. A complete tune-up, and a high flow cat will help nearly as much. While you are at it, the radiators are well known for clogging up as well as the heater cores. Won't help performance, but may make a difference in the running temp and whether or not you have heat. I just replaced both in my '82 Brat, and the difference is oblivious. These are not hotrods, but on flat ground should hit 60 fairly quickly. If it has been sitting, follow the above advice concerning the fuel filters, aircleaner, tune-up and may want to consider a new set of plug wires. These things are pretty inexpensive compared to exhaust or carb work. A high flow cat, if you feel you must run one, and a better flowing muffler and 2" pipe between the cat and the muffler, will make it breath easier. Also clean and replace the PCV valve. A dirty or non-operating one will hurt performance also. Have someone, or check yourself if you have a light, the timming. A few degrees as mentioned above can make a huge difference not only in performance, but milage. By the way, what is it getting for gas milage. It is one of the best indicators of engine condition and tune. Good luck.

Yo, what weight front diff. oil are you cold weather guys running in a 5 speed? Mine does not like to go into 5th or third for that mater until it warms up. May take 10 or 15 mins. Of course it was 5 degrees this morning. Next, the Monroe book lists the same strut from '83 to '87. The question is, are they different than the '82 strut. We are talking front, on a Brat. Any one know? Napa's book didn't even list a strut for '82. One more while we are at it. what is the size and length of the drivers motor mount to engine bolt? Thanks!

Cool! It can be done apparently. I sympathize with the folks that have to contend with the smog department. I guess the other suggestion is to have your car de-tuned to pass the retuned to run. Way to go.

Thanks for the link Caleb, you posted it while I was writting my reply. It still doesn't answer the question about where the project stands, who has the material, and who is, as it were, in charge. I understand the board not wanting to get into copyright law problems. There is usually a way around them by crediting the source, and getting permission to use them. There are some board members and a moderator or 2 that know SOA guys and may be able to follow it up from that end. The net is full of copyrighted material that people read and download, but I do understand the need for caution. If someone knows who has the project, let me know, I will contact Steve.

Ummm, I hate to say this, but it was planned and executed on forum, titled USMB Freedom of Information FSM Project, granted not this one. It was going to be a part of the board. It really isn't in the planning stages, it involves several of us all ready, and as everyone knows, is a carryover from the other board server. I have no objection to discussing this somewhere else, but I would also like to know where this stands and where mine and everyone elses books are, and this is the only avenue open to find that information. If there is going to be an announcement about it, thats ok too. It just needs some information thrown at it.

Got a letter from Steve, Electric Monk, and he asked a good question. I understand that John, Silvershadow, is in Iraq. I don't know this for sure, but the source is reliable. Does anyone know what became of the FSM digital project? I know there are, including myself, many that have manuals out there somewhere. We knew going in they were probably going to be gone for a while, but is there any information on what is happening with this project? Does anyone know how to get a hold of John or even if he is ok? I wish him the best, and do understand that the orders to go probably didn't leave him much time to communicate. Just curious. There were others working on this, a word on progress might be in order.

Good thinking if they are both going to be Subaru's. I had to order a water control valve for my heater. After 21 years, it is still a dealer only part. They got me one, dusty, dented, one outlet end bent and a hundred and 6 dollars for the privilage. This is not to mention the nearest Subaru dealer is more than 65 miles one way. Now it is 12 degrees outside instead of the 60 when I ordered it. Could I get a little cheese with this whine? I am just glad they could get it and I have 5 others that I can drive if I need to. It is a gold color valve assembly and the smart a** parts guy says do you really think it is gold?

Got a light powdering yesterday, but it was short and now it is way to cold and clear, like 13 tonight. Throw another log in the fire. Went and started the Trashwagon-5 and made sure it won't freeze. Fired right up after sitting for months. Wanted to make sure the thermostat opened, if it has one.:eh: This is the color you will be outside here tonight!

My '80 has a 32/36 DGEV. Simple install and simple to dial in. Makes it go as good as it is going to. I have noticed that they are a little fussy about vacum leaks. Outside of that, No Hitatchi's!

Even though I think Redlance figured out his problem, this is a good indicator of what can go unseen and still look good. I am with Andy, cool, another perspective from a lot closer to where they make our cars, or made I should say.

I run them in all my cars except the '82. Even the Gen 1's. I made a new harness out of real wire and radio shack 30 amp relays. The wire from the headlight switch for low beams goes to one relay leg, the ground to one and I ran a hot right off the back of the alt, the other to the light, no dimming. Put a ground on each side. Did the same with the high beam side, another relay, and both are on high or low, depending on switch position. I put a 30 amp in line fuse holder on the hot lead to the relay's from the alt. then new plugs with real wire from napa for a Ford f-150. Now I have lights. The only one I haven't figured out yet is the '82 single light. I will find a source for the shell and it will have the 85/120's off road only on each side. I live in the sticks and street legal is not an issue. If someone out there knows where to obtain the proper size square holder, let me know and I do apoligize for the hijack.