bbbs53

I have a spare trans. for that truck. If you need it ask, its yours for packing and freight.

Caleb is right, run an ad in the paper or on the bay. We be freebie bee's, or close to it.

Jerry's kit makes it so you can use the stock d/r lever instead of the one that's stock on the 5 speed. This makes it so you don't have to hack your console, or hammer anything. It also is a well crafted and pratical mod. A 5 speed is not for off road, but you do have to drive there and that's what it is for. It is by far and away the best performance mod for freeway running. It really makes a difference at 70+. I would do it for the way it makes it change overall performance. I love mine and would never go back to a 4 speed. Dropping into forth instead of third is mucho better on long pull hills. Tim, do you have a vacume leak? Was your carb new or rebuilt? I had a lot better luck with mine in both the EA-71 and -81. Vacume leak in the -71 made it do just like you describe. My vote is for 5 speed.

As long as you have it apart, you need to check the cylinders for taper and out of round. You can find inexpensive measuring equipment on the bay. If you can swing the cost, use oem parts. Search google for a source other than the dealer. I have seen new cams on the bay as well, but do not know there pedigree. Hope you don't find a broken piston, or are you past that point already? Lots of good information in the FSM. I would snag one if you can.

Cops have bad days, good days, funny days and dangerous days. They are human and like us at work, we sometimes take it out on those around us. They don't get paid near enough for putting up with our lame butt's. There are a lot of idiots on the road these days, just drive through even a small metro area. Spokane had 3 road rage incidents last week and I heard about a WOMAN that rammed a car then punched out the other drivers window when he stopped. Had his wife and kid in the car. I don't like getting caught speeding, and that is what it is, caught, and I don't like being pulled over for nothing. In the peoples republic of Washington, they invented the click it or ticket law. No other reason needed. I remember being escorted through Las Vegas by their local force for the crime of riding a motorcycle. The bottom line is argue with the judge, not the guy with the gun and all the power. The side of the road is not the place to hash it out. Get back underway as soon as possible and it will in the long run cause you the least amount of grief.

You need to contact Jerry. He is the man on doing the swap. Bratsrus.

Try http://www.autopartscorner.com . They had a good radiator and a better one and they were reasonable. They also have fenders and other parts. No heater control valve though.

Unfortunatly, none of these guys have everything. Believe it or not, there are still some dealer only parts. The water control valve for the heater at a cool 100.00 bucks is one. However where I live, heat is not an option. It does no good to replace the heater core and not do the valve. Mine leaked as soon as I reinstalled it. It was corroded where the actuator went through the housing which means the packing was shot. I went without it until the new one arrived at the dealership 65 miles one way away. It heated like crazy, but only full blast, nice when you leave in the morning, windows down and t-tops open on the return trip.

I'm with Phat, only difference was I went bigger, 2 1/2" pipe. A while back, someone, McBrat maybe, made a x pipe then into duals. The two pipes came from the manifold together in the x and out the back, it was a Brat mod and looked real good. There was a real good picture on the old board, the cat is out if you don't live where the smog nazi's are. Go with the least restrictive muffler you can get.

Sven, Sven, Sven, what were you thinking? Threaded rod from Napa? What grade was it? A head bolt is at least grade 8. The holes should be drilled on at the very least a radial drill press and even better, a milling machine. The next problem that has to be addressed is the reason the threads stripped out to begin with. If it is metal fatigue, due to what ever reason, heat, stress, metal degrading, whatever, it doesn't mater what you do, it is going to fail again. It would be better to put the largest size coils you can in and use larger bolts. Yes, it will mean opening the head holes on size, but at least it will hold. Then the proper grade and length bolts. This needs to be done on the above mentioned equipment, or they will suffer from the same problem. I admire your try and fix it attitude, but there are some jobs that should be done by a machinist on machine tools. I have been doing it for more than 20 years, and aluminum is one of the least forgiving metals there is. It suffers from properties that steel doesn't. Mating the two together causes even more problems, but that is another story. Another option with aluminum is to heliarc and re-drill and tap the holes. New metal and re-alignment of the parent metal. It takes someone that really knows there stuff for that, or they over heat the part. Good luck and it seems like you learned from your experience.

Says he bought it for his WRX, which would mean 2.5 litre. Then bought the STI. Someone has too much cash.

Thats funny, mine has two, one on the trans and one behind the wheel!

Tim, is it because the rings haven't seated yet due to the lack of friction? CCR makes a fine product, I am surprised that it is having this problem. Keep us posted, thanks.

My '80 manual has 3 or 4 parts, and one is the Brat part. The rest is pretty much the same. There isn't a lot in it except about the tailgate and the other odd Brat stuff. John has it for the manual marathon, if you need something specific, he may be able to be talked into scanning it for you. Silvershadow.

Should have the 5 speeds as the tag said. There is one in the Peagasus yard in Athol Idaho.

Wonder why it has a new fron clip? My '98 is pushing 166,000 so the milage isnt bad.

Actually, the "Brick" was a pretty inovative car. They only made 2585 of them and 1500 of them are still around. As far as getting out goes, most have been converted to air instead of hydraulic lift for the doors and the electric solinoids have been replaced with air actuators. You could always crawl out of the back hatch. The guy is also famous for the 2000.00 dollar EV Warior bicycle. Another venture that went the way of the Yugo. He worked on a 12 cylinder rotary engine with a man named Turner that only had 147 moving parts and weighed half of a V-8, producing 500 ponies. Early use of radical technology, acrylic over fiberglass, and a complete integral roll cage, molded in safety only colors, yellow, red, orange, white and suntan. The guy blew 32,000,000 million of the Canadians money building them. They sold in 1974 for $10,000. They cost more than 13,000 each to make. The later ones had Ford running gear in them and could be made pretty fast. Average selling price today, 6 to 30 thousand.

Haven't run the numbers yet Paul.

I would check on line by doing a google search. That sounds kind of high. If you have to have them today, may be the way to go. I have seen both bearing and gasket sets on the bay. If you have a little time, it may be the way to go. But if it aint broke, why are we fixing it? A reseal will do the same do and be a lot easier on your head. If you want to practise, go to the JY and get a rebuildable engine and take your time. Do you have da book? Not the junkers, but a FSM. Don't even open it up without it. Good luck, your in the right place.

If anyone on the west coast, or the east for that mater needs one complete with 61,000 on it, I think I can beat that price by a bit.

Not like you don't know this, but for clarity I will mention that HSS stands for High Speed Steel, it is what the die is made out of.

Napa matched Spark Blue to a T with the paint code. I think that I have seen it on one of the board members site, the codes that is. Any good Ditzler or other paint manufacture can make the color. As mentioned, the color number is the key, and they are available.

I think I said that. The FAQ idea was only a suggestion. As stated, I don't even know if this format will support it. I don't mind answering the same question more than once, because usually I have learned something since the last time. The point about everyone being new at one time or the other is well taken. The repair information seems to hardly ever be accessed. Search by topic, highlighted, may be the way to go. All words, any words, complete phrases, it depends on the system. Maybe at the top of each forum page. No one seems to spend much time on the front page. Just another suggestion, does not express dissatisfaction

72.00 dollars for a 13" tire? Really? Does that include shipping and a massage? LMAO!

The FAQ idea has been fielded before and is a darn good one. Actually, there are a lot of wheels that will fit, but as stated Pugeot is the only other car manufacture that ever used the bastard pattern. I keep seeing different wheels and just got a set I had never seen before off of a '79 df coupe. The wheel page has several, and Ken found some really nice Einkes for his son's car. The real hard part is finding any for sale. Pug's are getting harder and harder to find, it isn't like they imported a bunch of them anyway. There is another thing about Pugs, there is one, metric tire only wheel. The tires are available, but way high dollar. If the rims have tires, check the size before paying the cash. They are pretty rare though. Check the market place, they come up but you have to be quick. Then there is the shipping. Another thing to consider is that putting 14 or 15 inch wheels on an underpowered car will not improve performance, quite the opposite. Moderators, about that FAQ idea, anyone? Maybe an archive that doesn't drop off after 500 entrys like the last one and someone to decide which topics were saved. I personally don't know if this format will do that, just a suggestion.