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jacobs

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Everything posted by jacobs

  1. The line is only 5/16". That's way too small for flushing. Someone plugged what looks like the factory molded rubber hose with a 5/16" bolt and hose clamp. I'm sure it's a factory steel line that has an original "T" in it. It's very similar to the other heater steel line that "T's" and then goes to the carburetor and then to the thermostat housing.
  2. The steel waterline that runs from the water pump bypass to the heater on my 1986 EA82 has a factory "T" installed with a 5/16" hose that is capped. Where did this line originally go? My other identical 1986 does not have this "T". The second steel heater line on both cars also has a "T" but that one runs under the carb to the thermostat housing.
  3. I was just trying to get rid of all the clutter possible. It'll be easy to reinstall the line. Thanks!
  4. Isn't one for factory air and the other for without?
  5. I just finished removing all the emissions related hardware and hoses on my EA82 including drilling a bowl vent hole in the top of the carburetor and removing the fuel return line from the carburetor to the fuel tank. It's running great but I was wondering if it might have been a mistake removing the return line. Why did Subaru install it on in the first place? Is it there to help prevent "hot soak" or maybe to relieve strain on the fuel pump?
  6. If you want high octane, run CNG (compressed natural gas). As I recall, it has an octane rating of about 125 but don't expect good gas milage or an increase in performance. In fact you'll experience a decrease in performance unless you're running at least a 14:1 compression ratio. At least it doesn't have any additives. This is my own personal experience after installing CNG on about 50 vehicles about 15 years ago.
  7. On my last trip, with my 86 (stock) wagon with Hitachi carb, I traveled 600 miles round trip to Denver and got 41.5 mpg running 3 oz. acetone/10 gallons gasoline . I rebuilt my Hitachi about 4 years ago but other than that, it's original. The car has 280,000 miles on it. BTW I kept my foot out of the carb and stayed under 60 mph.
  8. Someday you'll find out there is no such thing as cheap or free women - there's ALWAYS a VERY high price tag attached!
  9. You have to take the alternator apart. Brushes will generally last about 250,000 miles though.
  10. I get 32 to 38 mpg with a 1986 carbed EA82, 4x4 & 5 speed. Note: You will only get this IF you keep your foot out of the carb. Drive as light footed as humanly possible and keep highway speeds below 65.
  11. Very easy and very cheep - like about $2.00. Be sure to repack the bearings while it's apart and it will probably last another 200,000 miles.
  12. I'm still trying to figure out how to reliably play my Victrola on my car. Every time I hit a bump or go around a corner the needle skips on the record. Any ideas?
  13. If you use loctite, be sure to use the blue. If you use the red, you may have to use a torch to heat it up to get it apart.
  14. The fuel gauge on my 86 quit working and I traced it to the sending unit in the tank. I removed the carpet and then removed the plug in the floorboard which exposed the sending unit and wires. If you ground the sending unit wire, the fuel gauge should read full. If the gauge reads full, the sending unit is faulty. If it doesn't, you have a broken wire or a faulty gauge. By the way, there's two wires going to the sending unit. One for the low fuel light and one for the gauge. I don't remember the color codes so you'll have to expermint. If you ground the wrong wire, the low fuel light will illuminate.
  15. That's like saying body shops hack things back into a similar shape to what it was. There's good body shops and lousy ones. A good alignment shop doesn't hack. They bend whatever is out of whack back to where the factory intended just like a good body shop does.
  16. They CAN be aligned! I slid into a median barrier with my 86 Subaru on the interstate after hitting an icy spot on a curve. The rear end wondered all over the road after that mishap so I took it into a GOOD alignment shop. They had a difficult time bending the suspension back into alignment but after they finished, the car drove good, didn't wonder and the tires wore evenly. I also took a double axle gooseneck trailer with solid axles to an alignment shop. They had to put hydraulic presses on the axles to bend them but it worked. There isn't anything that can't be aligned IF you go to a good alignment shop that wants the work. Tire shops are a ripoff - don't even consider going there unless it's a very small town and even then I'd be very wary.
  17. Make sure your battery is fully charged BEFORE making voltage tests. If your battery isn't fully charged, your voltage will be low even though your alternator and everything else is ok.
  18. For about the last 12 years or so both rear doors on my 86 GL are impossible to open unless you first push in with your knee, then lift up the door handle really hard. At this point they will open. Maybe your door is similar. Someday I'll get around to fixing them.
  19. I purchased a good used bushing w/plate for an 86 GL at a wrecking yard in Denver about 6 months ago for $10.00 and I didn't even have to remove it!
  20. When an engine is idling too fast, too much fuel and air is getting into the engine. For this to happen, you must either have a vacuum leak outside the carburetor or the butterfly is somehow being held open and leaking. This can be caused by the fast idle cam, fast idle screw or misadjusted butterflies. To check the butterflies, remove the carburetor, close the butterflies and see if there are any gaps around the edges. It's very possible this is the problem if you loosened the screws that secure the butterflies to the throttle shaft. I don't remember if both barrels are the same size but you NEVER want to mix up the butterflies. Always reinstall them in their original location and facing the same direction as originally installed because the angles are different along their edges. If you don't, they will leak causing a fast idle condition.
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