jacobs

Not quite offroad, but 15 years ago my wife lost control of our 86 wagon while going through an s curve on ice and laid it on it’s side. The tow truck driver said it was totaled and she told him she’d drive it home and let me decide. No glass was broken. I replaced the left front fender. Three years ago, our daughter hit a deer, smashed the front bumper, headlight, hood, and radiator. I repaired that damage. We’re still driving that car. It’s now at 317,000 miles and still going strong. It refuses to die.

This subject was widely discussed and know about within CDOT 13 years ago. There's nothing suspicious about mag chloride. The slat rats that's moved there from Calfornia and Texas must have the highways clear so they can safely travel the speed limit to the slopes. Big business dictates what's used.

Yep...Very dangerous, just like 15-40 gallons of gasoline under your car or like propane in your home for heating. IF it was very dangerous, it wouldn't be allowed in your home or used in AC overseas.

Propane works GREAT and can be mixed with R12 and oils used with R12. It is "illegal" to use in some states, however propane is very commonly used everywhere in the world except the US. Would DuPont have anything to do with that?

Worked great until it started leaking. Replaced the o-rings in it, then disconnected it to prevent future problems. I now just heel & toe on hills.

Ebay has changed it's feedback ratings to only reflect the last 12 months. This seller has only sold 3 items in the last 12 months and had one negative, hence 66%. This new system stinks for sellers that only sell a few items/year.

I agree. K&N doesn't sell their filters to over the road trucks. The trucking companies know what works best.....paper filters. They have too much money invested in their engines to use second class filters. They were the first to get rid of oil bath air filters when pleated paper filters were introduced. When in doubt about a product, if it can be used on large equipment, see what they are using. They are the first to jump on the bandwagon if it's good.

Rick, you obviously have never replaced a u-joint on a 18 wheeler. I have (no, not bearing failures) and they are constructed basically the same as an automotive cross including the seals. The same applies to other steering and suspension components. Seals are the same configuration made with the same materials only much larger. Although I don't always agree with you you are very knowledgeable of Subarus, BUT you do not know everything there is to know about all subjects and this is one you don't have a clue about......end of subject.

GD, crawl under an 18 wheeler and then report back to us what you saw. Those aren't slow speed vehicles.

This customer having his air cleaner element changed every 3000 miles was showing his ignorance. Once a "cake" of fine dust accumulates on the filter element, the air cleaner filters MUCH more efficiently as verified by document #680536 published by the Society of Automotive Engineers in 1968. In this publication, the radiotracer technique was used to measure piston ring wear caused by dust metered to the intake air, fuel supply, and crankcase lubricant of an industrial diesel engine. Several basic air cleaner configurations were evaluated for their effectiveness in reducing ring wear due to ingested dust. This document titled "Ingested Dust, Filters, and Diesel Engine Ring Wear" is still available from SAE at http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail?PROD_TYP=PAPER&PROD_CD=680536. This customer was defiantly ignorant about air cleaners and his knowledge was also severely lacking on lubrication.

The only u-joints, tie rod ends, shackles, drag links, & etc I've had fail in the 45 years I've been driving were the newer cheep zerkless garbage that was factory installed and I'm still driving vehicles I purchased in the 1960's. I wrenched professionally for 15 years as a heavy equipment mechanic and the main reason for failures then was when the crews did NOT grease the equipment as required. If greasing was bad, heavy equipment manufactures wouldn't put grease zerks on $500,000+ equipment. The more expensive the equipment, the MORE grease zerks there are.

It's my understanding the refrigerant oils are different between r12 and r134a and are not interchangable.

Several years ago I read that hydrocarbon refrigerants (propane, butane) were legal and commonly used most everywhere in the world except in the United States as an alternative to R12. You might want to research this option. I personally haven’t tried it although I have considered it. Many people fear using a flammable refrigerant but it doesn’t seem like it’s nearly as hazardous as carrying around 15 or more gallons of gasoline.

Oldsmobile used water injection on their turbocharged high compression 1962 or maybe it was 1963 aluminum block V8 from the factory. The compression ratio was somewhere around 10:1 or 11:1...I think. I'm sure it would work IF you set it up properly AND don't forget to keep water in the reservoir. Edit: See http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1962-1963-oldsmobile-f85-jetfire.htm

Convert lights to a DL

I'll check it out. If it's like you are indicating, that's GREAT!!!! Your way would be more reliable and simpler.

The problem with that is when the engine is running, voltage will backfeed from the resistor to the starter. You need the relay or a reverse blocking diode.

You will defiantly want to change ignition coils. If you don’t, points will severely arc and won’t last long. I used a GM coil designed for an external resistor and wired it in the same way older American vehicles were wired. Basically, 12 volt coils designed for use with an external resistor are really an 8 volt coil. When the engine is being cranked, battery voltage drops, the external resistor is bypassed, and the coil receives full battery voltage. This is very helpful for cold weather starting. Since Subaru doesn’t have a terminal on the starter for bypassing the external resistor, I used a relay to accomplish the same result.

You will need a Nippondenso EA71 distributor and a Nippondenso EA82 (2 wheel drive) distributor. Remove all the internal parts in both distributors, then install the parts that were removed from the EA71 distributor and install them in the EA82 distributor housing. The EA71 drive gear was factory installed with a peened pin which will have to be drilled out. The EA82 drive gear should have a roll pin that can be driven out. I believe the two drive gears are different and if so, you need to reuse the EA82 gear. It’s a very easy conversion and it has worked great for me for about 200,000 miles. It's been VERY reliable and driveability did not change in any way. About 6 months ago, I installed a Delta Mark 10B capacitor discharge ignition to increase point life. I purchased it on eBay for about $20. The nice benefit of the Mark 10B is it has a switch on the unit that allows you to instantly turn off the unit so you are back to your old conventional system. If you use a dwell meter for setting or checking your points, this is a real time saver. By the way, Delta also made a Mark 10. This unit does NOT have the built in switch. Other than that one feature, both units are the same. They also made a Mark 10C which is a high performance version (a little hotter spark) of the Mark 10B. It’s not likely you will find one of these as very few of them were made.

Rick, If you'll notice, on Interstates there are mile markers. While they are not always exact, due to accidents and getting knocked out and being reset in a slightly different location, if you check your odometer against them for 100 miles, you'll get a very accurate correction factor for your odometer. I know when they were originally set, they are very accurate because they are set by survey crews. They are accurate to 0.10 ft. in Colorado. I keep a log book for all fuel purchases and maintenance. When I calculate fuel milage, I use an average of 10-15 fuel purchases and like I stated above, odometer milage is corrected. I've kept accurate records of ALL fuel purchases for the last 40 years on all the vehicles I've owned. When I say I get XXXXX mpg, IT IS ACCURATE. I've given you all the details you are going to get. I've worked hard to get the milage I'm getting. If you want to get the maximum milage possible, you'll have to too. I'm done with this @#$%$#@#$% forum. I've got better things to do than to argue with an IDIOT. Goodby.

Rick, You are at a different altitude so my specs won't apply to where you are even if your engine was identical to mine as to wear & etc. Like I said, it's a matter of trial & error to see what works. If you don't want to spend the time, you'll never know what works and what doesn't.

Rick, You wanted to know how I acheived my results, read on.... As you should know, every vehicle is different. Different compression ratios, different clearances, turbo vs. n/a, different vehicle milage, different transmissions, and etc. As you also know, I use carburetors. Are you willing to install a carb and get rid of your computer controlled distributor? If not, I doubt you’ll ever experience any gains. 1. Carburetion - I experimented with different jets and float levels in my carb to see what works best and no it isn’t stock. Since every engine is a little different, you’ll have to play with jetting and float levels to see what works best. It was a matter of trial & error but it is leaner than stock and the float level is lower. 2. Timing, Initial - Once again trial & error but much more that factory specs. 3. Timing, Total - Again, more than factory 4. Drive 55 mph max. and accelerate like there’s an egg under your foot. If you do these four things, and drive on level ground, any decent carbureted Subaru will get 36+ mpg. One set of specs. won’t apply to every EA82. It’s a matter of much trial and error and a lot of time to see what your engine likes.

Rick, I can give you hard data, but I can STILL give you erroneous figures. I can supposedly have an unbiased person verify what I give you, but will you accept that....I think not. The only way to prove it to you is for you to actually experience it yourself. PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS OR SHUT UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've said I get 36 to 41 mpg. I can make up all kinds of stories and post them here. There is only one way to prove it...to SHOW YOU YOU JERK. PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS!!!!